Inside wheel wobble from almost full lock

[DanDare]

jeeez, I've had issues with getting the GCM tower plate & Irie steering to work properly (ie, I've learnt to ignore at least 50% of the GCM fitment video!) but I digress...

Now everything is fitted, geometry/steering end points set & using the Axial shocks with the 5mm internal spacer. Front end is locked.

I'm now getting the inside wheel wobble on 80-100% lock both ways. It's noticeable at crawling speed & worse the faster it goes. Prior to the GCM/Irie kits I had no issues (with the front end locked) You may say it's the CVD's due to more steering but it still has a poor turning circle, similar to before if I'm honest.

I haven't tried it with the diff open yet. I suspect it may be CVD related but I can't see what to do to stop it happening but it feels like it's gonna knacker the CVD's prematurely to me... any pointers would be welcome.

On the plus side, I am happy with the front end now, much more wiling articulation compared to the cantilevers.

[photon_trap]

Read my post on The Bug's "Chattering Front End".
Sounds like exactly the same thing. Unfortunately, adjusting the steering stops is the only answer (with these "CVDs") (which really aren't but that's another story)

[DanDare]

Well I'm kinda left feeling disappointed by the end result of this conversion, wobbly wheels (even the body wobbles) & less steering lock than I had before with the diff locked. Steering may improve by unlocking the diff but I want it left locked for what I've been using it for.

Are there better driveshafts available which might improve things do you know ?

[photon_trap]

Join the club. I feel the same way but I run it and have fun anyway. Irie's polished and treated stock axles might help a tiny bit but because it's dependent on angle it's hard to tell without getting scientific (after which it really does not matter anyway, it just is what it is)
No aftermarket company wants to touch the front axles due to other geometric issues. It's been covered here in great detail - bottom line Vaterra gave us a turd of a front end on multiple levels so, people either live with it of build a Yeti

[meatmonkey]

Have either of you held a Wraith at full steering lock and full throttle? I have one and guess what? It nearly shakes itself to pieces. This is due to the geometry of the steering joints not being a "true" constant velocity design. Additional steering angle makes things worse. This is very common on virtually all 4x4 R/C's.

As in 1:1, the easiest "fix" is DON'T use full throttle at full lock because it's hard on parts. duh, I know. but sometimes it's to hard to resist. Unless your crawling, what do you really need full steering lock for?

Take your CVD's out and check that they are not binding due to dirt/grime/possible lack of lubrication. They can cause all sorts of havoc when they get stiff.

If by "turd" of a frontend you mean "axle plunge and total travel sacrificed for maximium ground clearance and bump geometry" then I agree. While only 1.4" of travel is not massive, that's still about 14" of travel in 1:1, which is what many of the IFS KOH trucks end up with.

The only way to make stronger front axles, IMO, would be to completely redesign the front diff housing and spool to fit monster carrier bearings so the inner pivot could sit inside the bearings, instead of having the drive cup sticking out over the lower H-arm. This could allow for more room for axle plunge and slightly reduce the operating angles. Not sure if it's even possible on realistic level.

[photon_trap]

Originally Posted by meatmonkey

This is very common on virtually all 4x4 R/C's.

I don't have tons of experience with tons of crawlers so I'll take your word for it with regards to the Wraith, but I can tell you my 1/16 Traxxas (for example) has no such issue and, it has a steeper angle of operation at full lock. This tells me it is dependent on design - maybe a compromise to increase strength IDK. As for adaapted driving, in a 1:1 absolutely, it's obvious, in a R/C... I gas it and have fun like I said (within reason)

[DanDare]

I got to crawl my TH today for a good few hours, the steering lock really effects progress... fact, guess I'm stuck with it. It was also the first time out with the GCM rear truss fitted &... I noticed no difference whatsoever the front end cocking a wheel just as before, I'm clearly in the minority here but I can only report what I find.

In hindsight, I'd have still bought the GCM tower plate as I like the battery position & extra articulation using upright shocks, but not the rear truss. I'd definitely stick with the standard slider steering & bought a few spares for when it wears.

[photon_trap]

Sounds like you need to adjust your steering lock.
My TH drives nice (you always want a tighter turning radius no matter what)
Knowledgeable scale guys might be able to confirm the TH's TR "authenticity". To me it matters not to me, I just bash and have fun.
As for the GCM truss (not quite clear on why they call it that) IDK exactly what you were expecting to see but IMO it performs at least as well as advertised. Maybe you just need to drive it more...