Twin Hammers front axles falls/pops out

[Sr.Irie]

I have been getting this question quite a bit lately. So I thought I would do a quick how to, that is easy to find hopefully.

Issue:
Your front axle keeps coming out when bound up or in a crash.
You installed Irie products top plate and ball bearing steering and want to get all the travel you can.

Fix:
Place your truck on a work stand or box, set of tires, old piece of foam as I have. Something so that the front tires are hanging in the air at full droop.

Turn the front axles so the dogbone is vertical in the drive cup.

Adjust the cantilever pushrod turnbuckle shorter or longer. So that the top side of the cross pin on the axle is just inside the slot of the drive cup.



To do the other side repeat or measure the push rod length and make the other pushrod on the other side the same.

For all you running upright shocks





Hope this helps

[fr8cture]

And if they are not using the cantilever setup like most?

[clod booster]

These https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a slightly longer dog bone that even at full droop doesnt get close to falling out of the cup.

[Dbx]

Originally Posted by clod booster

These https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its a slightly longer dog bone that even at full droop doesnt get close to falling out of the cup.

This leads on to the post i made before:
Twin Hammers front suspension setup

Longer shafts are not necesarrily the answer. The correct shock length/position and most importantly, correct travel is what is needed. Longer shafts will work with too long shocks, but will reduce available travel. Longer shafts and shocks will raise ride height and therefore centre of gravity. A shaft that bottoms out in the outdrive (rather than the shock bottoming out first) is not going to be a long lasting setup.

[Ahod39]

I recently switched my Twin Hammers to upright (normal) shocks up front. I used Axial SCX10 shocks, and initially because of the excess travel I was having the same issue you are talking about.

To solve it - I rebuilt both front shocks and used an Axial rod end ball/bushing on the shaft just underneath the piston of each shock. It is like an internal travel reducer, and doesn't let the shocks droop down as much. You can add another small plastic washer if you want to be sure. No issues at full shock compression or at droop anymore, and the shocks are buttery.

[Sr.Irie]

Originally Posted by fr8cture

And if they are not using the cantilever setup like most?

Added a picture that should help