RCCrawler Forums

steakman · 09-17-2010, 01:05 PM

my 4wd acts like one until it needs to crawl. if I lay it on its back to check it, at full throttle the drive shafts, axles and tires spin. So I put my arm on the rear tires at throttle and there is resistance. When I do so on the front, no resistance at all. While doing this the tranny and drive shafts F/R work. The problem must be in the front axle. What could it be?

Wicked Klown · 09-17-2010, 01:14 PM

Not sure but sounds like the diff lock is disengaged. When building it did you lock the diffs with either JB Weld, washer, wire or anything? You could also get the FLM lockers.

steakman · 09-17-2010, 01:32 PM

No I never locked it with anything. I done it like the directions stated. I'm thinking it is either the pinion at the join behind the C-hub or an internal gear gone back in the axle itself.

catzuk · 09-17-2010, 02:05 PM

Sounds like a driveshaft set screw is loose and front driveshaft is spinning but slipping on the shaft. Or the pinion or other gears in front are stripped.

C*H*U*D · 09-17-2010, 02:09 PM

If you hold one front tire while applying throttle and the other tire spins, it's your differential. It's either unlocked or broken. You can check this without power applied too. Grab one front tire and turn it...the other front tire will turn in the opposite direction.

If you hold both front tires, and the driveshaft spins, then the driveshaft set screw may be loose and it's spinning on the pinion shaft.

rmdesignworks · 09-17-2010, 05:26 PM

Sorry for the above posts,,,steakman,,back on topic of your post,,it sounds like the yoke set screws arent engaging your pinion shaft on the front axle,,,make absolutely sure the one set screw is engaged on the flat of the shaft and the other is on the round as a counter pressure screw. I doubt very seriously that the issue is inside the axle with gears...i do strongly advise that you lock your lockers though,,,they will become a source for many hours of headaches otherwise.

steakman · 09-17-2010, 06:53 PM

[QUOTE=rmdesignworks;2641352i do strongly advise that you lock your lockers though,,,they will become a source for many hours of headaches otherwise.[/QUOTE]

How can anyone lock them permanently? I don't believe the switch will hold endlessly.

Abavuso · 09-17-2010, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Sorry for the above posts,,,steakman,,back on topic of your post,,it sounds like the yoke set screws arent engaging your pinion shaft on the front axle,,,make absolutely sure the one set screw is engaged on the flat of the shaft and the other is on the round as a counter pressure screw. I doubt very seriously that the issue is inside the axle with gears...i do strongly advise that you lock your lockers though,,,they will become a source for many hours of headaches otherwise.

I second that, I had that issue till I packed my dif with JB weld and let it sit over night and presto changeo... locked up tight.

steakman · 09-17-2010, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abavuso

I second that, I had that issue till I packed my dif with JB weld and let it sit over night and presto changeo... locked up tight.

Not to sound like a box of rocks, but could you post a photo to show what all I should use the JB Weld on? I would appreciate it very much.

Abavuso · 09-17-2010, 08:40 PM

Well I don't have a photo but it's a rather simple process. Take apart you dif... once you have it in two halvs you'll see the 4 small gears that were a pain to assemble. Put some BJ on both gear plates and then coat the 4 small gears, kinda like you were packing the thing with grease. Make sure you don't get JB weld down the holes where the drive shaf fits in, or when it hardens it won't seat properly. Put the two halfes back together and fasten the screws.

Last slip a drive shaft into both ends to make sure the dif plates are seated properly and then just set it aside for 24 hours(or if your imatiend, assemble the whole shebang and just let your rig sit for 24 hours. You're locked and ready to rock. I hope that helps. one of these days if I ever have to replace the dif I'll take pictures for future reference.

When I did mine it was in the middle of a comp that I blew the locker. I used some fast drying BJ and packed a few small screws in it as well for extra hold since I couldn't let the rig sit for 24 hours... I had two more courses to run.

still workt great... geto but great.

steakman · 09-18-2010, 12:06 PM

I am going to get some JB Weld today. Is there any need to do the same to the rear axle? The top selling point for the Creeper is its ability to lock/unlock the diffs. Makes me wonder why it so easily is the problem.

BTW, I can't figure out how to post a photo on here. Help?

SpeedyG · 09-18-2010, 12:45 PM

I'm sure most of us would recommend JB'ing both the front and rear diffs... no point in having them unlock unless you're into scalers...

If you wanna post pics there is a section in the FAQ (top of the page) about it... Personally I use Photobucket, but you gotta resize your pics to fit a webpage so it doesn't take a week to load a page...

BTW be sure to insert both of your axles FULLY into the diff BEFORE the JB cures (after reassembly) or else your axle won't go back together properly...

rmdesignworks · 09-18-2010, 03:40 PM

put a very light nit of oil on the end of the shafts where the flats are so they wont be JB Welded into your diffs too.

ion · 09-18-2010, 03:47 PM

sorry about my above post, but a great option for a comping set-up if you don't want to run dig, or if your class can't, then jb weld the front, get a differential locking kit, but upgrade it with piano wire so you can lock and un-lock the rear diff. i have that on my 1:1 and my 1:10 and both work flawlessly bro. it's like having a dig, but for less $$

steakman · 09-19-2010, 06:20 AM

I don't understand what you mean by "scalers". I'm not into competeing. There's just 5 friends who enjoy RC. Does HR Racing have a way to lock the rear?

ion · 09-19-2010, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steakman

I don't understand what you mean by "scalers". I'm not into competeing. There's just 5 friends who enjoy RC. Does HR Racing have a way to lock the rear?

no they do not, if you want a drop in locker with-out having to putty up the differentials, the you need to get some FLM locker. they are $12 easch, and then your shipping from rc bros. they are the only ones that carry them i believe.

Wicked Klown · 09-19-2010, 12:03 PM

Take a look at the FLM venom diff lockers.

viper6171 · 09-19-2010, 10:06 PM

yes definatly flm lockers they are fantastic

steakman · 09-19-2010, 11:33 PM

What are the black with red ring thing that replaces the rear c-hub thingy? Is it needed?

Wicked Klown · 09-19-2010, 11:41 PM

Are you talking bout the HR Rear Lockers? These replace the rear c-hub and knuckle.

09-17-2010, 01:05 PM	#1
steakman Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: house Posts: 22	1st ever crawler, 1st ever post my 4wd acts like one until it needs to crawl. if I lay it on its back to check it, at full throttle the drive shafts, axles and tires spin. So I put my arm on the rear tires at throttle and there is resistance. When I do so on the front, no resistance at all. While doing this the tranny and drive shafts F/R work. The problem must be in the front axle. What could it be?

09-17-2010, 01:14 PM	#2
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	Not sure but sounds like the diff lock is disengaged. When building it did you lock the diffs with either JB Weld, washer, wire or anything? You could also get the FLM lockers. Last edited by Wicked Klown; 09-17-2010 at 01:23 PM.

09-17-2010, 01:32 PM	#3
steakman Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: house Posts: 22	No I never locked it with anything. I done it like the directions stated. I'm thinking it is either the pinion at the join behind the C-hub or an internal gear gone back in the axle itself.

09-17-2010, 02:05 PM	#4
catzuk Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pueblo Posts: 98	Sounds like a driveshaft set screw is loose and front driveshaft is spinning but slipping on the shaft. Or the pinion or other gears in front are stripped.

09-17-2010, 02:09 PM	#5
CHU*D No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO Posts: 4,529	If you hold one front tire while applying throttle and the other tire spins, it's your differential. It's either unlocked or broken. You can check this without power applied too. Grab one front tire and turn it...the other front tire will turn in the opposite direction. If you hold both front tires, and the driveshaft spins, then the driveshaft set screw may be loose and it's spinning on the pinion shaft.

09-17-2010, 05:26 PM	#6
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	Sorry for the above posts,,,steakman,,back on topic of your post,,it sounds like the yoke set screws arent engaging your pinion shaft on the front axle,,,make absolutely sure the one set screw is engaged on the flat of the shaft and the other is on the round as a counter pressure screw. I doubt very seriously that the issue is inside the axle with gears...i do strongly advise that you lock your lockers though,,,they will become a source for many hours of headaches otherwise.

09-17-2010, 06:53 PM	#7
steakman Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: house Posts: 22	[QUOTE=rmdesignworks;2641352i do strongly advise that you lock your lockers though,,,they will become a source for many hours of headaches otherwise.[/QUOTE] How can anyone lock them permanently? I don't believe the switch will hold endlessly.

09-17-2010, 08:40 PM	#10
Abavuso RCC Addict Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Colorado Springs, Co Posts: 1,441	Well I don't have a photo but it's a rather simple process. Take apart you dif... once you have it in two halvs you'll see the 4 small gears that were a pain to assemble. Put some BJ on both gear plates and then coat the 4 small gears, kinda like you were packing the thing with grease. Make sure you don't get JB weld down the holes where the drive shaf fits in, or when it hardens it won't seat properly. Put the two halfes back together and fasten the screws. Last slip a drive shaft into both ends to make sure the dif plates are seated properly and then just set it aside for 24 hours(or if your imatiend, assemble the whole shebang and just let your rig sit for 24 hours. You're locked and ready to rock. I hope that helps. one of these days if I ever have to replace the dif I'll take pictures for future reference. When I did mine it was in the middle of a comp that I blew the locker. I used some fast drying BJ and packed a few small screws in it as well for extra hold since I couldn't let the rig sit for 24 hours... I had two more courses to run. still workt great... geto but great.

09-18-2010, 12:06 PM	#11
steakman Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: house Posts: 22	I am going to get some JB Weld today. Is there any need to do the same to the rear axle? The top selling point for the Creeper is its ability to lock/unlock the diffs. Makes me wonder why it so easily is the problem. BTW, I can't figure out how to post a photo on here. Help?

09-18-2010, 12:45 PM	#12
SpeedyG Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Rocky Mountain House, Alberta, CANADA Posts: 226	I'm sure most of us would recommend JB'ing both the front and rear diffs... no point in having them unlock unless you're into scalers... If you wanna post pics there is a section in the FAQ (top of the page) about it... Personally I use Photobucket, but you gotta resize your pics to fit a webpage so it doesn't take a week to load a page... BTW be sure to insert both of your axles FULLY into the diff BEFORE the JB cures (after reassembly) or else your axle won't go back together properly...

09-18-2010, 03:40 PM	#13
rmdesignworks I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: ...the burning end of the rope. Posts: 5,013	put a very light nit of oil on the end of the shafts where the flats are so they wont be JB Welded into your diffs too.

09-18-2010, 03:47 PM	#14
ion Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Carson City, NV Posts: 453	sorry about my above post, but a great option for a comping set-up if you don't want to run dig, or if your class can't, then jb weld the front, get a differential locking kit, but upgrade it with piano wire so you can lock and un-lock the rear diff. i have that on my 1:1 and my 1:10 and both work flawlessly bro. it's like having a dig, but for less $$

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09-19-2010, 06:20 AM	#15
steakman Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: house Posts: 22	I don't understand what you mean by "scalers". I'm not into competeing. There's just 5 friends who enjoy RC. Does HR Racing have a way to lock the rear?

09-19-2010, 12:03 PM	#17
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	Take a look at the FLM venom diff lockers.

09-19-2010, 10:06 PM	#18
viper6171 RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: pullin somebody else out of a mud hole Posts: 1,759	yes definatly flm lockers they are fantastic

09-19-2010, 11:33 PM	#19
steakman Newbie Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: house Posts: 22	What are the black with red ring thing that replaces the rear c-hub thingy? Is it needed?

09-19-2010, 11:41 PM	#20
Wicked Klown Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Sheboygan Posts: 278	Are you talking bout the HR Rear Lockers? These replace the rear c-hub and knuckle.

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