Shock spring Question?

[rmdesignworks]

good thing is your shocks are mounted right side up. you can do the following on the rig or completely remove each shock from the rig...your choice.

Remove the M3 screw/nut holding the shock to the chassis plate. The holding the shock by the threaded area above the spring collar unscrew the top cap carefully. Inside the cap is a rubber bladder that seals the top of the shock. Dont remove the bladder unless it comes out. Once the cap is removed slowly and steadily compress the shock until it bottoms out, you may lose a little shock oil as you do this, thats fine you can always add some later. When it bottoms out the piston will be at the top and a c-clip will be visable..use a small screw driver to pop the c-clip off the shaft..be careful as the c-clip can fire across the room if you arent careful. Remove the piston from the shaft and then the spring under it. then reverse order above and reinstall everything.

[mwscooters]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

good thing is your shocks are mounted right side up. you can do the following on the rig or completely remove each shock from the rig...your choice.

Remove the M3 screw/nut holding the shock to the chassis plate. The holding the shock by the threaded area above the spring collar unscrew the top cap carefully. Inside the cap is a rubber bladder that seals the top of the shock. Dont remove the bladder unless it comes out. Once the cap is removed slowly and steadily compress the shock until it bottoms out, you may lose a little shock oil as you do this, thats fine you can always add some later. When it bottoms out the piston will be at the top and a c-clip will be visable..use a small screw driver to pop the c-clip off the shaft..be careful as the c-clip can fire across the room if you arent careful. Remove the piston from the shaft and then the spring under it. then reverse order above and reinstall everything.

Dude you are awesome

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by mwscooters

Dude you are awesome

Does that mean it worked?

[gerr]

Originally Posted by mwscooters

Dude you are awesome

You have no idea how many questions i have asked Thomas and he allways has a good complete answer for me. I too bought my creeper used and unfortunatly the guy i got mine from didnt build it with crawler parts so the info on here has helped me fix and mod it back in to shape.

[mwscooters]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

does that mean it worked?

yep

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by mwscooters

yep

...and you were concerned that we were getting off topic.

Im glad I could help.

[mwscooters]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

...and you were concerned that we were getting off topic.

Im glad I could help.

Used it this way for a little, to much body roll. Then the body would not go back to center very well. Put it back to stock configuration with springs inside. Then bled the shocks and thought all was well when the bottom of one blew out. The bottom cap won't thread back on, pops right off. So what do you recommend for shocks? Thanks Greg

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by mwscooters

Used it this way for a little, to much body roll. Then the body would not go back to center very well. Put it back to stock configuration with springs inside. Then bled the shocks and thought all was well when the bottom of one blew out. The bottom cap won't thread back on, pops right off. So what do you recommend for shocks? Thanks Greg

Sorry the stockers are giving you so much trouble.

The stock shock configuration is a large part of why the stock Creeper has so much articulation...but it has a serious drawback....Body roll, soft return and chassis centering. One of the things I suggest is to relocate the shocks. One end is mounted to the lower link tabs on the axle and the other end is mounted to the chassis side plates, you can see what I mean in the early pages of my build thread. This will help stabilize the rig. Another part of this issue is the presence of chassis roll based on front and rear upper link geometry. Raise and spread the rear upper links at the axle. The front upper links need to be mounted so the axle end has the rod ends on the outside of the link tabs. Youll need 15mm spacer/s to fit between the upper link tabs on the axle, do not just screw a bolt through the tabs they will fail.

As far as a good shock...my favorite is the Losi 4" shock kit with White springs and 25wt oil...the part number is listed in the RMDW Tips/Tricks sticky under the shock "tip".

[mwscooters]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Sorry the stockers are giving you so much trouble.

The stock shock configuration is a large part of why the stock Creeper has so much articulation...but it has a serious drawback....Body roll, soft return and chassis centering. One of the things I suggest is to relocate the shocks. One end is mounted to the lower link tabs on the axle and the other end is mounted to the chassis side plates, you can see what I mean in the early pages of my build thread. This will help stabilize the rig. Another part of this issue is the presence of chassis roll based on front and rear upper link geometry. Raise and spread the rear upper links at the axle. The front upper links need to be mounted so the axle end has the rod ends on the outside of the link tabs. Youll need 15mm spacer/s to fit between the upper link tabs on the axle, do not just screw a bolt through the tabs they will fail.

As far as a good shock...my favorite is the Losi 4" shock kit with White springs and 25wt oil...the part number is listed in the RMDW Tips/Tricks sticky under the shock "tip".

Alright I will order some of those, in the mean time I noticed the stock shock threads don't go all the way around the body of the shock. So I squeezed the bottom green piece of the shock with a pliers to slightly ovalize it (and I mean slightly). Slid it back on to the shock body with the slightly ovalized sections matching the sections on the shock body where there are no threads, it gabbed the threads and tightend right up. Sweet- back to crawling today Amen.

[mwscooters]

Noticed alot of people running different springs on there stock shocks, what brand fits the stock shocks.

[lazynocturnal]

Originally Posted by mwscooters

Noticed alot of people running different springs on there stock shocks, what brand fits the stock shocks.

i know axial does and i believe so do losi...

[gerr]

yup losi and axial springs can work, I tried both and the losi worked a little better for me and I chose the whites but they have I believe 3 different ones each firmer than the stock venom spring but also venom has a heavier spring available too.

http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=8394

I also replied to your inquiry in my build thread

[gerr]

Originally Posted by rmdesignworks

Sorry the stockers are giving you so much trouble.

The stock shock configuration is a large part of why the stock Creeper has so much articulation...but it has a serious drawback....Body roll, soft return and chassis centering. One of the things I suggest is to relocate the shocks. One end is mounted to the lower link tabs on the axle and the other end is mounted to the chassis side plates, you can see what I mean in the early pages of my build thread. This will help stabilize the rig. Another part of this issue is the presence of chassis roll based on front and rear upper link geometry. Raise and spread the rear upper links at the axle. The front upper links need to be mounted so the axle end has the rod ends on the outside of the link tabs. Youll need 15mm spacer/s to fit between the upper link tabs on the axle, do not just screw a bolt through the tabs they will fail.

As far as a good shock...my favorite is the Losi 4" shock kit with White springs and 25wt oil...the part number is listed in the RMDW Tips/Tricks sticky under the shock "tip".

Link geometry correction fixed my body roll even when I had stock shocks, doesn't matter what you do to the shocks alone they wont cure the problem

[venomcrawlerdud]

Originally Posted by gerr

yup losi and axial springs can work, I tried both and the losi worked a little better for me and I chose the whites but they have I believe 3 different ones each firmer than the stock venom spring but also venom has a heavier spring available too.

http://www.venom-group.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=8394

I also replied to your inquiry in my build thread

just so you know these are the stock internal anti roll springs, they are not for the out side of the shock.

[gerr]

Originally Posted by venomcrawlerdud

just so you know these are the stock internal anti roll springs, they are not for the out side of the shock.

Aww crap sorry about that. I fail lol

[rmdesignworks]

Originally Posted by gerr

Link geometry correction fixed my body roll even when I had stock shocks, doesn't matter what you do to the shocks alone they wont cure the problem

Under torque load you are correct but if you compress the suspension at a stand still and the chassis doesnt return to neutral ride height that is spring pre-load and shock position.

[mwscooters]

Thanks for the shock spring answer Gerr, finally got the body height and shock stiffness that I was looking for. Running 15 shock oil weight in the stockers with Axial soft springs. Body returns to center much better than the stock weight which seemed sluggish to center very slow. Hopefully another person that is new to this can use this information.






more ground clearance

body used to cover the top of the servo horn, springs raised it up 1/2 inch.

[liquidkool]

thats gotta be the tallest v-dub body ive ever seen. looks sharp but your body is really kinda high bro!!!

[mwscooters]

Originally Posted by liquidkool

thats gotta be the tallest v-dub body ive ever seen. looks sharp but your body is really kinda high bro!!!

Yeah it is sitting pretty high especially since I added the new springs. Made some new body mounts this morning, dropped it down quite a bit.