Dont do anything too crazy with the hex pins just yet.... I think I have the PERMENANT answer. Give me a couple days and I will post up.
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Sick of worms?!!! I got the Cure!
- Thread starter Erik D_lux
- Start date
Rootar
Rock Crawler
Inmy experience with breaking wheel hex pins
If your breaking the pins under power, (make sure you not over tightening your axle nut) the ideal answer would be to drill the axle and use a larger diameter pin with a hex made for the pin.
Another thing to look at is wether or not the hole through the axle has sharp straight edges, this can allow the pin to shear easier so the edges would need to be nicely rounded, if done too excessively it will lead to the pins breaking in the center rather than shearing (done by a counter sink to bevel the hole just barely then by a stone tool on the dremel to smooth over the edge left at the bottom of the bevel). This and a higher quality pin should be plenty.
If your breaking the pins under power, (make sure you not over tightening your axle nut) the ideal answer would be to drill the axle and use a larger diameter pin with a hex made for the pin.
Another thing to look at is wether or not the hole through the axle has sharp straight edges, this can allow the pin to shear easier so the edges would need to be nicely rounded, if done too excessively it will lead to the pins breaking in the center rather than shearing (done by a counter sink to bevel the hole just barely then by a stone tool on the dremel to smooth over the edge left at the bottom of the bevel). This and a higher quality pin should be plenty.
Last edited:
BigMOFO
Newbie
My car has been running like crap so I had to take a look at the back end. I am not 100% sure but I think it was the cause of my binding.
As I knew when I put the spool in it would not last. It was in terrible shape when I put it in and I knew its time was borrowed. 200+ hours on a bad spool.... I think the worm did really well under the circumstances. I also think it says a lot that the back end failed before the front end. I went through 10 stock worms in the front before I went through any stock ones in the back.
The spool looked terrible when I pulled it. The worm had wear but I think it could have lasted a lot longer. I replaced both since I was frustrated and wanted my car to run good again.
As I knew when I put the spool in it would not last. It was in terrible shape when I put it in and I knew its time was borrowed. 200+ hours on a bad spool.... I think the worm did really well under the circumstances. I also think it says a lot that the back end failed before the front end. I went through 10 stock worms in the front before I went through any stock ones in the back.
The spool looked terrible when I pulled it. The worm had wear but I think it could have lasted a lot longer. I replaced both since I was frustrated and wanted my car to run good again.
Toyo496
Quarry Creeper
Ok, so I wanted to give an update on my Dlux worms.
The shipping to my house in CA was very quick ! Thanks, Dlux "thumbsup"
They came pre-greased with what I believe is the Lucas Red Tacky compound. I installed them with the 3 shims in front and back of the worm and pumped the housings full of grease. I used a method that I hadn’t done before. I have Water Proof grease in a syringe and put the LCC into front dig mode and pulled my Allen set screw out of the diff and injected grease on the spool while a buddy of mine was running the throttle back and forth !! I did the same on the rear axle and noticed that I was able to get alot more grease in there and distributed on the gears better than before. I will only use this method from now on !!
While installing my worms I noted that I had decent wear on my spools. After installing the rear first I made sure it turned smoothly by hand by turning the driveshaft...it turned very smoothly. After installing the front and noticing some heavy wear and slight grooves half way down each and every spool tooth I just figured I would run it. When I went to turn the drive shaft by hand it would turn half a turn and then bind up...???? So I tore it down re-cleaned the spool and worm and tried every possible shimming combination on the worm with no success. I also flipped the spool. No matter how much grease or shim combination the front one bound hard enough that I wasn’t able to turn the drive shaft by hand....????????? So I thought it may need some breaking in, so I did the old attach the drill to the back of the worm and run it for a minute or two. Even after that it still had serious bind in it??? So I dug through my parts bin and found another spool, this one had knife like sharp gear tooth tips, and was very shiny polished. (very worn, I guess?) I put it together exactly as I did the other and it turned very smoothly, just as the rear had. So I am not sure what the hang up was but never the less the new Dlux worms are BADASS !!! "thumbsup"
After running 1 battery pack through it I knew right away that I needed to re-gear the pinion. I am running a 14 tooth pinion with the Excelerion 21.5 BL with 1300 mha batteries with a pretty light rig, I am in the lower 1200 grams area with no battery, body, or tires. Before the worms the 14t pinion was the highest I could go with out serious lack of torque. The courses I find myself on most have LOTS of areas to get bound up real bad. And I found that if I ran anything over a 14t I was unable to power out of bad binds. Even with the 14t I was risking getting bound beyond my motors ability. On one comp I had to pull my rig by hand out of a bind and take a penalty because I could not power forward or reverse !!
Anyways, I slammed a 16t pinion in and could probably run a 17t on some courses. With out any risk of getting bound up !!! "thumbsup" At the moment I am going to stick with the 16t, I can drive right into a bind and power out of it with out using dig, this is AMAZING !!!! The rig seems to have more snap/power !!! It is able to accelerate much faster !! And as Dlux has said a thousand times "the rig is much smoother" !!! It glides over rocks much better, it doesn’t jerk and bind on flat ground at all !! And yes I have noticed diff temps to be lower as well. I haven't shot them with a temp gun, but they feel much cooler to the touch.
In conclusion......THANK YOU DLUX "thumbsup"
I now have well over 15 battery packs on the worms and I believe this upgrade has been one of the most notable upgrades I have done to this rig !! The rig is way more fluid and smooth now !! It has more power and alot more WHEELSPEED (as shown in Dlux's videos) and I feel I can comp better with out risking getting bound up. To those of you on the fence about buying these worms...JUST DO IT !!! Even if you have to buy one at a time, it will still be worth it. Put the first one in the front and save up until you can buy another.
I also purchased his longer grind to fit chromoly pin kit and they installed easily with the use of basic tools and a dremel. I am looking forward to the added strength of these pins.
Thanks Dlux !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The shipping to my house in CA was very quick ! Thanks, Dlux "thumbsup"
They came pre-greased with what I believe is the Lucas Red Tacky compound. I installed them with the 3 shims in front and back of the worm and pumped the housings full of grease. I used a method that I hadn’t done before. I have Water Proof grease in a syringe and put the LCC into front dig mode and pulled my Allen set screw out of the diff and injected grease on the spool while a buddy of mine was running the throttle back and forth !! I did the same on the rear axle and noticed that I was able to get alot more grease in there and distributed on the gears better than before. I will only use this method from now on !!
While installing my worms I noted that I had decent wear on my spools. After installing the rear first I made sure it turned smoothly by hand by turning the driveshaft...it turned very smoothly. After installing the front and noticing some heavy wear and slight grooves half way down each and every spool tooth I just figured I would run it. When I went to turn the drive shaft by hand it would turn half a turn and then bind up...???? So I tore it down re-cleaned the spool and worm and tried every possible shimming combination on the worm with no success. I also flipped the spool. No matter how much grease or shim combination the front one bound hard enough that I wasn’t able to turn the drive shaft by hand....????????? So I thought it may need some breaking in, so I did the old attach the drill to the back of the worm and run it for a minute or two. Even after that it still had serious bind in it??? So I dug through my parts bin and found another spool, this one had knife like sharp gear tooth tips, and was very shiny polished. (very worn, I guess?) I put it together exactly as I did the other and it turned very smoothly, just as the rear had. So I am not sure what the hang up was but never the less the new Dlux worms are BADASS !!! "thumbsup"
After running 1 battery pack through it I knew right away that I needed to re-gear the pinion. I am running a 14 tooth pinion with the Excelerion 21.5 BL with 1300 mha batteries with a pretty light rig, I am in the lower 1200 grams area with no battery, body, or tires. Before the worms the 14t pinion was the highest I could go with out serious lack of torque. The courses I find myself on most have LOTS of areas to get bound up real bad. And I found that if I ran anything over a 14t I was unable to power out of bad binds. Even with the 14t I was risking getting bound beyond my motors ability. On one comp I had to pull my rig by hand out of a bind and take a penalty because I could not power forward or reverse !!
Anyways, I slammed a 16t pinion in and could probably run a 17t on some courses. With out any risk of getting bound up !!! "thumbsup" At the moment I am going to stick with the 16t, I can drive right into a bind and power out of it with out using dig, this is AMAZING !!!! The rig seems to have more snap/power !!! It is able to accelerate much faster !! And as Dlux has said a thousand times "the rig is much smoother" !!! It glides over rocks much better, it doesn’t jerk and bind on flat ground at all !! And yes I have noticed diff temps to be lower as well. I haven't shot them with a temp gun, but they feel much cooler to the touch.
In conclusion......THANK YOU DLUX "thumbsup"
I now have well over 15 battery packs on the worms and I believe this upgrade has been one of the most notable upgrades I have done to this rig !! The rig is way more fluid and smooth now !! It has more power and alot more WHEELSPEED (as shown in Dlux's videos) and I feel I can comp better with out risking getting bound up. To those of you on the fence about buying these worms...JUST DO IT !!! Even if you have to buy one at a time, it will still be worth it. Put the first one in the front and save up until you can buy another.
I also purchased his longer grind to fit chromoly pin kit and they installed easily with the use of basic tools and a dremel. I am looking forward to the added strength of these pins.
Thanks Dlux !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
losikid
Got Worms?
Yea they came with grease on them to keep them from rusting, and the reason it was binding up so much was because it had a real tight fit on the spool, mine was the same at first to then after a few batt packs they were buttery smooth:mrgreen:
Toyo496, glad youre liking them and having as much luck as I have had. When I lost my spool in the rear a couple days ago I remembered how frustrating it was dealing with this ALL the time. Look forward to much more wheelspeed and reliablity for atleast 200 hours 
Losikid, yours was tight on the spool because you had a test batch that is not a standard worm.
Losikid, yours was tight on the spool because you had a test batch that is not a standard worm.
losikid
Got Worms?
ok, i know that, but why would it be tight on his then. I'm thinking we may have had the same problem since you said the few running the gears i was didn't have that problem.
Who knows on his. Sounds like something wrong with the spool if he can change spools out and run fine.
Toughbeard
Rock Stacker
Hello M8,
I cannot order from your page. Merchant Dlux does not ship to Turkey
2x mean worms
2x mean pins (std length)
couple cool stickers...
cheers.
I cannot order from your page. Merchant Dlux does not ship to Turkey
2x mean worms
2x mean pins (std length)
couple cool stickers...
cheers.
It should be working for you now. Let me know if you have any issues.Hello M8,
I cannot order from your page. Merchant Dlux does not ship to Turkey
2x mean worms
2x mean pins (std length)
couple cool stickers...
cheers.
Thats what 2 sets of my spools have looked like. The first set where originals that I had in with the factory worms. After seeing them look like that I thought maybe they were just bad from the old worms.
Stuck a brand new set in front and rear and 6 packs later I got the same thing again. Strengthen one area and you find the next weak link :ror:
Toughbeard
Rock Stacker
order sent. Thanks M8.
Why did you replace the first set, did it effect the car?
First wanted to see if it was due to the first set being damaged from original worms. My worms never stripped out like many others, I actually had broken pieces right off of them.
I also had a big comp that weekend and wanted to take the risk factor out of anything blowing up lol.
It didnt feel or sound like anything was wrong at all, only reason I even noticed them was I wanted to see how the worms were doing. Those looked great. :mrgreen:
The only spools I have seen are mine and Tydl's. Sounds like yours end up the same as ours. I think its just the worm and the spool finding a happy spot with each other.
I figured out the problem on my car. It was not the worm or the spool. In hind sight I would still run mine.
