buzzbe97
Rock Stacker
Would have to agree mine has took hell and still runs"thumbsup"
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New Bright Jeep Rubicon
- Thread starter Spiike
- Start date
Would have to agree mine has took hell and still runs"thumbsup"
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
It's because in the cold the chemical reaction that makes power is not as energetic, so your batts are putting out less juice.
Store your batteries somewhere warm, and when you are outside keep your spares warm.
Using a sticky grease on your gears can reduce rolling, but what you are dreaming of is a "drag brake" built into the speed control and the trucks simply don't have it. I did like you and use slight throttle to hold the truck stable.
Store your batteries somewhere warm, and when you are outside keep your spares warm.
Using a sticky grease on your gears can reduce rolling, but what you are dreaming of is a "drag brake" built into the speed control and the trucks simply don't have it. I did like you and use slight throttle to hold the truck stable.
Lobonyc
RCC Addict
This is a pic of my brand new "New Bright" Jeep
This is my "New Bright" Jeep out of the box
This is my "New Bright" Jeep after a few minutes with a screw driver
This is my "New Bright" Jeep after ten minutes from opening the box
ANY QUESTIONS?:mrgreen:
This is my "New Bright" Jeep out of the box
This is my "New Bright" Jeep after a few minutes with a screw driver
This is my "New Bright" Jeep after ten minutes from opening the box
ANY QUESTIONS?:mrgreen:
do you have a build thread?
what did you do with it?
on my way to save up for one myself, can't wait, stop teasin me lol
I kinda figured as much, and yeah i'll have to buy some lube and not sexual lube for my truck, what I normally do is play till the battery seems dead, and bring it inside, warm up and go outside again, i got a cheap nicd 1000mah x3 in parallel for maximum output and 3 hour minimum on full charge in cold weather
I know they don't have them in my truck, but i was wonderin of some genius tequnique to build my own. well with thoughts, some of the guys around here are quite thoughtful and have unique ways of doing things, i'm sure a wizard could find a way!
your not going to keep the springs, screws, nuts bolts, tires, motors? okay maybe not tires, they look plastic. at least mine are rubber. looks like 1/6th scale
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
Yeah, those ones are total junk, even for radio-shack RCs. I think it's supposed to be 1/8 scale. Lots of guys buy them for the body and scrap the rest.
Here's a sweet example of what can be done with the newbright body and Axial running gear:
Yeah, those ones are total junk, even for radio-shack RCs. I think it's supposed to be 1/8 scale. Lots of guys buy them for the body and scrap the rest.
Here's a sweet example of what can be done with the newbright body and Axial running gear:
yeah once i get my scx10 i have a few ideas, i would like to put my nb jeep on it, i have a GI joe, but they are like 1:12 scale, and my truck is 1:10. so i will be looking for other toys to fit right.
I have ordered White LEDs, and red LEDs, specific resisters due to a LED calculator. so building lights for my Rubicon body.
I have axial springs which are not cut. using them on the rear suspension.
After i get my SCX10 i will also purchase items to build a winch, there are a few out there that look cool, haven't decided which one yet.
I have ideas for building wheel wells, opening my toolbox in the back of my truck to add tools. which i've found on this site.
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/COT1015-FISHING-POLE-W-REEL-AND-LINE-P15364C602.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/ISL12011-DOUBLE-BARREL-SHOTGUN-DARK-STOCK-P16213C602.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/FCA2595-FISHING-VEST-P25159C602.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/IM65548-LUGNUT-WRENCH-P8923C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/IM65068-PLIERS-P1087C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/FCA2948-HAMMERS-SMALL-P11599C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/IM66002-SHOVEL-P1488C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/FCA2945-AXE-LARGE-P11600C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/ISL5001-7-PIECE-AUTOMOTIVE-TOOL-SET-P13529C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/ISL0105-CRESCENT-WRENCH-P16118C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/ISL0122-LARGE-SCREWDRIVER-P16128C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/ISL0164-WRENCHES-4-PCS-P16149C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/FR70705-TOOL-BOX-P27389C596.aspx
http://www.dejouxminiatures.com/DH3522-BLACK-WBEIGE-BACKPACK-P5127C855.aspx
oodles of little tinkets i can use to make a real scale jeep
Since the Jeep has seats that droop lower than most bodies people use on the scx10, i've got a thread started to look into how to mount the motor in the front where the engine would be in a real vehicle. there is ton of space under the hood in my jeep I wouldn't want to cut the floor in the jeep.
I like the idea of building a roof rack for my truck too. haven't gotten that far in the making process. I will be taking photos with my fiance's new samsung 12 megapixel camera in the build process when i get to that far.
Replacing the stock roll cage with a tuber cage,
making doors open and close, including back door with the tire too, like the newer style jeeps.
moving antenna to look like cv antenna.
building sleeping bags, straps, tow ropes, mounting fishing poles, filling toolbox with tools, making a cooler, finding a fire exstingwisher and other stuff. millions of ideas running through my head and no cash to do it all!
the local hardware store has nice little black scale chains too, was thinking of buying 20 feet, using 15 feet to make snow chains for winter, and making mounts to hang the chains when not in use, like on real semi trucks (brainstorming) and using the other little bit to use with the winch maybe?
i could go on forever! i wish i was a millionaire
ninetwofiveRC
Quarry Creeper
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
Putting the motor under the hood is common. There are aftermarket chassis that have front motor mounts, or you can fab your own mounts. Either way you just run a driveshaft from the motor down to the tranny input.
For guys who are getting really fancy there are low profile t-cases that look just like a real one.
For guys who are getting really fancy there are low profile t-cases that look just like a real one.
Yeah I had made a psot on the scx10 and people pointed me to links of builds that use a transfer case. looks ***ing amazing! and would solve my problem with the motor being in the way when i go to install my jeep rubicon on a scx10 platform.
Today I'm going to buy proper dremel tips, going to shave off excess threads on my wood screws, thats todays project
then my next project is buying a propane bottle, and aluminum solder, and aluminum tubing, and a tube bending kit, i like the idea of the spring bending method, and its cheap and you can do fine bends and large bends, and brazing aluminum looks super simple, i'm going to learn how to braze first, maybe start a bumper for my NB.
ninetwofiveRC
Quarry Creeper
yea ive put mine threw alot of abuse. and thats basicly the only thing i broke! it was a fun basher but cant beat hobby grade R/C's.
ninetwofiveRC
Quarry Creeper
Lobonyc
RCC Addict
Nope. Keeping all that crap is not worth the effort of removing it from the vehicle.
I have several nut and screw kits from "RC Screwz Stainless Steel Screw Kit" for my AX-10. I love using them on projects and they save you time when you are searching for matching nuts and screws.
Aside from the body, the only thing i kept was the rechargable 9.6 volt battery and charger. It makes for a good power source for the BullDog winch and eventually I will make use of it.
As for the body, i will (sometime in the future) paint and use on an sc10 type of chassis; either Axial's or TCS's. If that does not pan out, then i was thinking of just cutting the front hood and grill and using it on my Wreckluse chassis instead of the lexan hood.
oh okay cool stuff, just gotta remember, i'm a month old noobie to this hobby "thumbsup"
I know for sure, the kids have stepped on them, tripped on them, sat on them, its rolled down a 7 foot hill, took a tumble down stairs, and it still runs great, but the orange paint is chipping off my bumper
First thing i did was today I bought a dremel bit for metal then i dremeled my shock pins. rear 5" and front 3" might upgrade to 3.5" in front to test
Next thing i did was put the old springs in, this lowered the back end a lot, giving tons of droop, i realized that the axial grey springs were 3x harder than my stock springs
Here i was browsing the scale forums tricks, and i found this.
Hair ties, zip ties from garbage bags, super glue, and paper clips.
the finished product drying
I took your guys suggestion and cut the front chassis, just cause i was bored and to see how much more articulation i had. but i think i should remove the top blue caps on the shocks, also put in 3" screws as i mentioned above
Articulation
Added a chain for weight in front,
Tow straps, with or without hooks, found some netting, built a backseat net, just playing around, sowed onto the roll cage
Moved tire again, mini-tow strap with hooks, extra bungee cords hanging on net.
Broke my servo wire today, had to dismangle and solder, removed spring, tested and loved it! probably save a bit of battery too!
Next thing i did was put the old springs in, this lowered the back end a lot, giving tons of droop, i realized that the axial grey springs were 3x harder than my stock springs
Here i was browsing the scale forums tricks, and i found this.
Hair ties, zip ties from garbage bags, super glue, and paper clips.
the finished product drying
I took your guys suggestion and cut the front chassis, just cause i was bored and to see how much more articulation i had. but i think i should remove the top blue caps on the shocks, also put in 3" screws as i mentioned above
Articulation
Added a chain for weight in front,
Tow straps, with or without hooks, found some netting, built a backseat net, just playing around, sowed onto the roll cage
Moved tire again, mini-tow strap with hooks, extra bungee cords hanging on net.
Broke my servo wire today, had to dismangle and solder, removed spring, tested and loved it! probably save a bit of battery too!
rooktakesqueen
Quarry Creeper
?
Just one word....why:roll:
Just one word....why:roll:
First thing i did was today I bought a dremel bit for metal then i dremeled my shock pins. rear 5" and front 3" might upgrade to 3.5" in front to test
Next thing i did was put the old springs in, this lowered the back end a lot, giving tons of droop, i realized that the axial grey springs were 3x harder than my stock springs
Here i was browsing the scale forums tricks, and i found this.
Hair ties, zip ties from garbage bags, super glue, and paper clips.
the finished product drying
I took your guys suggestion and cut the front chassis, just cause i was bored and to see how much more articulation i had. but i think i should remove the top blue caps on the shocks, also put in 3" screws as i mentioned above
Articulation
Added a chain for weight in front,
Tow straps, with or without hooks, found some netting, built a backseat net, just playing around, sowed onto the roll cage
Moved tire again, mini-tow strap with hooks, extra bungee cords hanging on net.
Broke my servo wire today, had to dismangle and solder, removed spring, tested and loved it! probably save a bit of battery too!
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
Anybody can throw money at a truck and get a good result, but this is where RC Crawling started: bodge what you've got and learn as you go.
Give a guy like this guy a couple years and a small budget and half the time he'll be building custom frame buggies that the most of us can only drool over, and doing it for 1/4 of what most people pay to buy a less capable RTR rig.
Just need a few bucks, so i can buy spring tube bending kits, solder, propane bottle, flux. etc... already got plans for building a new chassis for my NB rig. and turning it into a tuber when i get my scx10
