happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
As you can imagine this didn't end well...
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happymachinist MRC PRO Build
- Thread starter happymachinist
- Start date
As you can imagine this didn't end well...
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happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
....this also didn't end well
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happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
Sorry about the multiple posts with nothing but pics, Tapatalk doesn't think I should need to upload more than 6 pictures at a time.
So I ordered some 1/8" dia titanium and revised my steering linkages. The linkage from the servo doesn't seem to get hung up as much...more than I'd like but better than the bulky revo linkages I was running. And the Ti shaves off a few grams as well.
Against my better judgement, I've started another project. I'm going to take what I've learned from my pro and other user's builds to rig up a Chaotic Crawlers CF chassis. In the works I have a different take on the Franken Axle using Axial/VP steering components...we'll see how that goes.
Sent from my iPhone using auto correct.
So I ordered some 1/8" dia titanium and revised my steering linkages. The linkage from the servo doesn't seem to get hung up as much...more than I'd like but better than the bulky revo linkages I was running. And the Ti shaves off a few grams as well.
Against my better judgement, I've started another project. I'm going to take what I've learned from my pro and other user's builds to rig up a Chaotic Crawlers CF chassis. In the works I have a different take on the Franken Axle using Axial/VP steering components...we'll see how that goes.
Sent from my iPhone using auto correct.
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Boy you sure can clock some chubs!
Course looks great! Rigs look great! Multiple posts, who cares.... its nice to see some new pics an mini's bein ran!
As for ur links getting hung up.. have you tried running the tie rod under the servo and the drag link behind the horn? Yes the horn still hits, but it eliminates the 3/8" unicorn horn off the front of it to catch on.
Next line of business.. NICE! A new rig an new steering ideas. Smooth! Let's see it! Details/ideas???? Do share!
Course looks great! Rigs look great! Multiple posts, who cares.... its nice to see some new pics an mini's bein ran!
As for ur links getting hung up.. have you tried running the tie rod under the servo and the drag link behind the horn? Yes the horn still hits, but it eliminates the 3/8" unicorn horn off the front of it to catch on.
Next line of business.. NICE! A new rig an new steering ideas. Smooth! Let's see it! Details/ideas???? Do share!
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
Boy you sure can clock some chubs!
Course looks great! Rigs look great! Multiple posts, who cares.... its nice to see some new pics an mini's bein ran!
As for ur links getting hung up.. have you tried running the tie rod under the servo and the drag link behind the horn? Yes the horn still hits, but it eliminates the 3/8" unicorn horn off the front of it to catch on.
Next line of business.. NICE! A new rig an new steering ideas. Smooth! Let's see it! Details/ideas???? Do share!
Hey thanks man! As far as the chubs go, they used to not be as "clocked" as they are now. Somewhere between adding the Ti links from Chaotic and servo mount from Infectious, my clock increased. I have thought about turning my upper rod ends out a bit to see what it does to my clock angle and wheel base.
I can't really reduce my clock via the LCC adapters because the screws just want to follow the holes that are already there. I may just have to redo it with new axle housings.
As far as steering linkages, with my current setup I can't run the servo link on the back side because it hits the drag link. I could run a longer servo horn to drop the servo link lower than the drag link but I wasn't sure if I'd gain anything since the longer horn would put the link closer to the ground vs sticking farther out...hope that makes sense...
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
The chaotic ti links made it perfect! Ur servo is to be or best to be level with the ground.
If the clocking doesn't hurt or hinder, then its ok. Some like it some don't. Has it changed ur crawlability any? Or give an take like everything else?
Can you drill holes in a diff spot all together to fix the clocking? I don't remember any perticular spot to mount them to the axle?
The tie rod connects ur knuckles, the drag link connects ur servo to a knuckle..
the tie rod fits nicely in between the top of the axle an the bottom of ur servo, if you can make a tie rod like that.. then ur drag link can go behind ur horn..
From my experience, I have actually used the horn/longer horn to get out of binds and up over rocks. Wiggle/turn side to side and it will lift you up over a ledge that it may get hung up on.. so yes, it puts it closer to the ground but puts it further back towards the axle and out of the way more..
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
I have a similarly shaped horn in my spare parts bin that I've been holding on to, might be time to bust it out.
I've been trying to stick with the shorter horn to give my servo as much mechanical advantage as I can...that being said I do need to try a longer horn like you suggest so I can compare the difference.
Now here are some pics of a buddy and my attempt at a Franken Axle. I had been wanting to try it but wasn't wanting to spend the money if it didnt work. So he wrote the check, and told me to give it a whirl. A lot of reading, measuring and machining later here's what I've come up with:
Width with DLUX rims an rover tires came out to 7-7/8" if I remember correctly. Couldn't have asked for much better IMO...since he had the hubs from a different project.
The adapters press VERY tight into plastic axial chubs. Removing them would probably ruin them. I can adjust the fit down the road but it got us going.
The holes were positioned so they line up with the axial chubs, the adapters, and losi axle housings.
Stock MRC PRO vs Franken axle.
With A LOT of dremel work to the axle shafts this was the bind free steering I was able to get.
I've given the axle to my buddy for him to install and test, but it's planting season 'round here so EVERYTHING takes a back seat till the sh*ts in the ground.
I can already see the challenge of getting the wheels to clear links and springs at full lock...but I think it can be done. The chubs seem to be fastened pretty securely via my adapters, we've pulled and twisted on them with more force than WE THINK they should encounter but as you all know sh*t gets real now and then and these little rigs go through a lot. So only time will tell.
I know the link and shock mounts aren't as strong on losi housings as the axial but we were trying to keep the geometry as close to stock as possible.
I'm open to suggestions, kinda hard to go changing stuff just yet since we haven't seen it in action.
Sent from my iPhone using auto correct.
I've been trying to stick with the shorter horn to give my servo as much mechanical advantage as I can...that being said I do need to try a longer horn like you suggest so I can compare the difference.
Now here are some pics of a buddy and my attempt at a Franken Axle. I had been wanting to try it but wasn't wanting to spend the money if it didnt work. So he wrote the check, and told me to give it a whirl. A lot of reading, measuring and machining later here's what I've come up with:
Width with DLUX rims an rover tires came out to 7-7/8" if I remember correctly. Couldn't have asked for much better IMO...since he had the hubs from a different project.
The adapters press VERY tight into plastic axial chubs. Removing them would probably ruin them. I can adjust the fit down the road but it got us going.
The holes were positioned so they line up with the axial chubs, the adapters, and losi axle housings.
Stock MRC PRO vs Franken axle.
With A LOT of dremel work to the axle shafts this was the bind free steering I was able to get.
I've given the axle to my buddy for him to install and test, but it's planting season 'round here so EVERYTHING takes a back seat till the sh*ts in the ground.
I can already see the challenge of getting the wheels to clear links and springs at full lock...but I think it can be done. The chubs seem to be fastened pretty securely via my adapters, we've pulled and twisted on them with more force than WE THINK they should encounter but as you all know sh*t gets real now and then and these little rigs go through a lot. So only time will tell.
I know the link and shock mounts aren't as strong on losi housings as the axial but we were trying to keep the geometry as close to stock as possible.
I'm open to suggestions, kinda hard to go changing stuff just yet since we haven't seen it in action.
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EverettY
E.Y. Designs
Woow I always thought it was a great mod but I just never liked the look over the XR case over the Mini Case but you made it look exactly how I've envisioned it... So what material did you use to make those adapters and when are you going to become a vendor on here? :mrgreen:
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
Meh... it will never work.. lol..
Great job! As always... have no fear, this mod is worth every penny and then some!!!
ur machined parts for ur build are second to none.. can't wait to see the outcome of the testing an then you doin ur own steering mod.
I like the XR case around the mrc case. I have found no down falls or draw backs and it helps get the front axle over an across the rocks. IMO.. keep up the great work
Great job! As always... have no fear, this mod is worth every penny and then some!!!
ur machined parts for ur build are second to none.. can't wait to see the outcome of the testing an then you doin ur own steering mod.
I like the XR case around the mrc case. I have found no down falls or draw backs and it helps get the front axle over an across the rocks. IMO.. keep up the great work
EverettY
E.Y. Designs
Do it... I need a tester for some parts "thumbsup"
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
He's already on Team CW!
EverettY
E.Y. Designs
Yeah but the only thing Calvin makes for the Mini is that chassis... I've got other stuff besides just the chassis ;-)
Gentlemen.. Don't hijack this thread. Pm each other an argue there.
Everett.. You chassis is bad ass, but sponsorships require support. Last time I checked, CW crawlers is in my sig, and e.y. Designs isnt;-)
If you want to reply, pm me. Don't fill this awesome thread with nonsense.
Everett.. You chassis is bad ass, but sponsorships require support. Last time I checked, CW crawlers is in my sig, and e.y. Designs isnt;-)
If you want to reply, pm me. Don't fill this awesome thread with nonsense.
EverettY
E.Y. Designs
My apologies HM Looking forward to seeing what else you come up with 
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
Thanks for the kind words gents!! I didn't really think about the larger diameter housings sliding up and over rocks easier...makes perfect sense.
I suppose now a guy should probably look into an under drive mod for the rear to really take advantage of all that steering.
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I suppose now a guy should probably look into an under drive mod for the rear to really take advantage of all that steering.
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winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
I have a 12t pinion made for ud.. I haven't really felt the need to add it at this point. I think I would feel better with a 13t gear to try it with..
with the steering, with my setup, the front will be steering an slide the rear to the side that's bein steered to.
My fix for that was a little extra weight added to my rear Dlux mounts to keep the rear planted. It helped..
I Think.. with a ud gear it will help in situations and hinder in others. With a ud the rear wheels won't be spinning as fast an will really pull the rear to the steering side. Then again, more added weight to the rear will allow it to a stay planted, but at what cost to the forward weight bias..
These are just my thoughts on my experiences with all the added steering from this mod..
My rig only weighs 2lbs 9.3oz. That's with bmrc knuckle weights an rear Dlux weights(half a .300 and a .100 ring).. not sure of how much that adds up too.. just trying to give a idea
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
I gotcha...I was concerned it would have a tendency to push the front end and not take advantage of the extreme steering angle that will be available...thought I read that somewhere too. In any case that will be less work for me
I do believe my buddy has the under drive mod already installed in his truck. It will be nice to compare and contrast (once I splurge for the steering mod) seeings how he is switching everything over to the chaotic chassis. Our two trucks will be remarkably similar.
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I do believe my buddy has the under drive mod already installed in his truck. It will be nice to compare and contrast (once I splurge for the steering mod) seeings how he is switching everything over to the chaotic chassis. Our two trucks will be remarkably similar.
Sent from my iPhone using auto correct.
winnerone23
I wanna be Dave
You prolly did read that somewhere. A cause of the universals as they spin gives off 4 rotations per rotation of the wheel. 2 are slower which gives the look/action of push. The other two are fast and cause it to hook hard...
My overall with it.. the steering is such a gain to start with, the little bit of "push" it gives off is in no way a hinderince. It already puts you ahead of the game.. IMO
I already went out an ran mine this morning an now want to change out the rear pinion just to test it.. lol.. I don't have anyone to run mini's with in my close area, just at comps.
My overall with it.. the steering is such a gain to start with, the little bit of "push" it gives off is in no way a hinderince. It already puts you ahead of the game.. IMO
I already went out an ran mine this morning an now want to change out the rear pinion just to test it.. lol.. I don't have anyone to run mini's with in my close area, just at comps.
happymachinist
Quarry Creeper
Hey man sorry just saw this post!!
I too don't care for the look of the XR housings over the mini housings, that's why we looked into a different way of doing things...this was before winner pointed out that the larger housings help slide over rocks a little better (I think that's what he was getting at anyway
) I do think the adapters look a little cleaner but the larger XR housings over the mini's would add a good bit of strength no doubt.The adapters are made of 303 or 304 stainless if I remember correctly... whatever tid bit we had laying around. They are VERY thin in places and I didn't know if aluminum would be strong enough.
I don't think I could become a vendor due to the price of the vendor star. I simply couldn't justify it cost wise...I'm in no way complaining its just that I'm in it for the fun and challenge aspect of it.
