3d printer for rc parts

[JohnRobHolmes]

All unpacked and squared up & leveled getting ready for the 1st print

I printed the included Bot 1st as a test piece. All in all I was very happy with the results. I can see in the back where it's not perfect and the ears also could be better. I'm going to print the included unicorn and see what it looks like.

Watch your hot end temp, and if it swings more than a few degrees you will need to tune your PID. I just got the same machine under a different brand and the PID tune was terrible, 10c plus/minus swings. Get your computer hooked up to it via USB and execute the Gcode through Cura, repetier, or whatever your choice. Guide found here http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

After that, I would recommend you tune your E-steps to ensure it is pulling the proper amount of filament. Mine was off by 6% from the factory, leading to constant under-extrusion. The reprap website should have a writeup about how to do that as well.


Once PID tuning is done and e-steps are calibrated, everything else will be much more likely to yield quality and consistent output. This should be done on all new budget machines, and any time a new drive or hot end is installed.

 

[Gramps]

First 3D printed RC part with new printer

I was pretty happy with the samples I ran so I decided to try something off Thinkiverse having a Redcat Gen 7 I decided on the spur gear cover. Put it in Cura and didn't change anything, This is the result.

 

[mikemcE]

JRH is spot on .
My PID was horrible, plus or minus 10. I was also under extruding , estep took care of it.



Hang up and Drive

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

JRH is spot on .
My PID was horrible, plus or minus 10. I was also under extruding , estep took care of it.



Hang up and Drive

Scrolled back a few pages and you had already covered it. We have the same machine :ror:


The MP mini I have at the shop makes small production tooling. Yesterday I started making epoxy scrapers for building Magnum motors. Really sped up and evened out magnet installation. 5 cents each, reusable, custom for the job. Can't be beat!

 

[JatoTheRipper]

The Select Mini is a machine. I want a larger printer as reliable as it.

 

[mikemcE]

The Select Mini is a machine. I want a larger printer as reliable as it.

Select Plus...... I can’t believe how good it makes me look


Hang up and Drive

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Select Plus...... I can’t believe how good it makes me look


Hang up and Drive

What's the print area on it?

 

[Ditchrat]

.8mm :shock:

Have you tried insulating the bed?

Hmm. I got my cr-10 last week, and it came with an insulated bed. I was expecting heating issues, from the research, and frankly after firing it up I assumed people are idiots (hard not to) because mine prints within 3 minutes of inserting the card and hitting print.

Most of the time I hit preheat, slice my file, and transfer it to the mSD card. Normally it will start printing within a minute. I guess they upgraded it.

I have to say I am really surprised at the CR-10. I expected all kinds of adjustments. All I did was level it, and hit print. Stock cat printed perfect. Downloaded cura, then some thingiverse files, used recommend settings and it was off to the races. I really expected a fight, but nothing. I guess at some point I will monkey with the settings.

A couple missteps here and there due to using painters tape, switched to glue and this thing has been next to flawless.

 

[mikemcE]

What's the print area on it?

200x200x180


Hang up and Drive

 

[JatoTheRipper]

200x200x180


Hang up and Drive

Thanks I'll take another look at it.

The CR-10 and Anet A8 are also on my radar.

 

[mikemcE]

I would go for a CR10 next, as that’s one more step up . A big nozzle and Bowden head rocks !
I got my Plus for a song, shipped, with2spools of PLA , under 300.
I set up Octoprint and have lots of control.


Hang up and Drive

 

[MasteroFlego]

I keep having issues with larger PLA prints on my MP mini, the edges like to curl up. I'm currently using green painters tape on the stock alumimum bed, but I'd like to find something better. I might try gluestick, or spend money on a buildtac or PEI build plate.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[JatoTheRipper]

I would go for a CR10 next, as that’s one more step up . A big nozzle and Bowden head rocks !
I got my Plus for a song, shipped, with2spools of PLA , under 300.
I set up Octoprint and have lots of control.


Hang up and Drive

Was that a Black Friday deal or something?

I have not ventured into Octoprint, but I have a WiFi camera watching my printer and the printer is plugged into a smart outlet so I can turn if off remotely should a print fail. That way I don't waste more filament.

I keep having issues with larger PLA prints on my MP mini, the edges like to curl up. I'm currently using green painters tape on the stock alumimum bed, but I'd like to find something better. I might try gluestick, or spend money on a buildtac or PEI build plate.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Gluestick does help a lot. Have you tried playing with your bed temp?

I switched to BuildTak (or something like it). I struggled with it at first. Nothing would stick. I cleaned it as suggested, but nothing help. Eventually it "wore" in so now things stick without any gluestick or any other adhesive.

 

[MasteroFlego]

Gluestick does help a lot. Have you tried playing with your bed temp?

I switched to BuildTak (or something like it). I struggled with it at first. Nothing would stick. I cleaned it as suggested, but nothing help. Eventually it "wore" in so now things stick without any gluestick or any other adhesive.

I've always printed PLA with a bed temp of 60° (the max for my MPSM). I'll try to find some gluestick and print without tape, and I'll eventually get a PEI bed.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

[JohnRobHolmes]

Glue stick will peel too. You might need to reduce nozzle temp, or try printing on glass, or maybe your room is cold or has a draft. Glass at 60c won’t let go of pla.

 

[DavidH]

Hmm. I got my cr-10 last week, and it came with an insulated bed. I was expecting heating issues, from the research, and frankly after firing it up I assumed people are idiots (hard not to) because mine prints within 3 minutes of inserting the card and hitting print.

Most of the time I hit preheat, slice my file, and transfer it to the mSD card. Normally it will start printing within a minute. I guess they upgraded it.

I have to say I am really surprised at the CR-10. I expected all kinds of adjustments. All I did was level it, and hit print. Stock cat printed perfect. Downloaded cura, then some thingiverse files, used recommend settings and it was off to the races. I really expected a fight, but nothing. I guess at some point I will monkey with the settings.

A couple missteps here and there due to using painters tape, switched to glue and this thing has been next to flawless.

I set up my CR-10S on the weekend - first 3d printer, first time printing - and the only issue I had was that the x-axis bar had one side higher than the other. Fairly straightforward to rectify, but not mentioned in the assembly video that I watched.

After an extruder test, I used some glue stick on the included tape, and successfully printed a few things from tinkercad sliced in cura (mac). I was braced for it to be much fussier than that. Even the bed leveling knobs don't seem to be as bad as some have gone on about. The glass has a detectable bow but is flat enough for now.

The wife complains about the noise if the print goes beyond bedtime, so I'll have to move it from my home office into an enclosure in the garage, which was my intent anyway, based solely on fan noise. I have some alternative material coming in this week, so I may be up for a challenge there.

And I have dig out some patience and get up to speed on fusion360.

 

[Robbob]

I've always printed PLA with a bed temp of 60° (the max for my MPSM). I'll try to find some gluestick and print without tape, and I'll eventually get a PEI bed.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Try blue painters tape and glue sticks. If I remember correctly the green tape is a bit smoother then blue so it might not be sticking well enough.

I use glue sticks from the dollar store on the blue tape and bed temps from 60-80 with out problems.

I did switch to this though for a bed and love it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...etailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=pda0ea-20

 

[JatoTheRipper]

Glue stick will peel too. You might need to reduce nozzle temp, or try printing on glass, or maybe your room is cold or has a draft. Glass at 60c won’t let go of pla.

Yes, but glue stick certainly is better than bare painter's tape.

And I have dig out some patience and get up to speed on fusion360.

It takes a lot of patience IMO to use Fusion360. It's the most frustrating 3D software I've used. The good news is that there are tons of tutorial pages and, even better, videos online.

 

[mikemcE]

Was that a Black Friday deal or something?

Week after christmas sale was going to get the cheaper version, I delayed and found the deal.

 

[urjustamemory]

I set up my CR-10S on the weekend - first 3d printer, first time printing - and the only issue I had was that the x-axis bar had one side higher than the other. Fairly straightforward to rectify, but not mentioned in the assembly video that I watched.

After an extruder test, I used some glue stick on the included tape, and successfully printed a few things from tinkercad sliced in cura (mac). I was braced for it to be much fussier than that. Even the bed leveling knobs don't seem to be as bad as some have gone on about. The glass has a detectable bow but is flat enough for now.

The wife complains about the noise if the print goes beyond bedtime, so I'll have to move it from my home office into an enclosure in the garage, which was my intent anyway, based solely on fan noise. I have some alternative material coming in this week, so I may be up for a challenge there.

And I have dig out some patience and get up to speed on fusion360.

The CR's downfall is the noise of the fans, bloody ears inducing if you're anywhere near it for long amounts of time. There are many videos online about swapping out silent fans for the fans in the control box and on the extruder as well.