• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

3d printer for rc parts

MasteroFlego said:
I keep having issues with larger PLA prints on my MP mini, the edges like to curl up. I'm currently using green painters tape on the stock alumimum bed, but I'd like to find something better. I might try gluestick, or spend money on a buildtac or PEI build plate.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Not sticking on the edges could be an indication of the nozzle being just a bit too high on the first layer. It might be worthwhile to check the Z height adjustment.
 
k7zpj said:
Not sticking on the edges could be an indication of the nozzle being just a bit too high on the first layer. It might be worthwhile to check the Z height adjustment.
Click to expand...
It's so tricky to get the bed trammed properly, there were a couple times I've put it a few millimeters out of wack lol.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
JohnRobHolmes said:
Watch your hot end temp, and if it swings more than a few degrees you will need to tune your PID. I just got the same machine under a different brand and the PID tune was terrible, 10c plus/minus swings. Get your computer hooked up to it via USB and execute the Gcode through Cura, repetier, or whatever your choice. Guide found here http://reprap.org/wiki/PID_Tuning

After that, I would recommend you tune your E-steps to ensure it is pulling the proper amount of filament. Mine was off by 6% from the factory, leading to constant under-extrusion. The reprap website should have a writeup about how to do that as well.


Once PID tuning is done and e-steps are calibrated, everything else will be much more likely to yield quality and consistent output. This should be done on all new budget machines, and any time a new drive or hot end is installed.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info did an hour run twice and the temp bounced between 194-195 & 49-50 for the bed temp. I will keep a watch on it so to be sure it doesn't get out of wack as it ages.
 
k7zpj said:
Not sticking on the edges could be an indication of the nozzle being just a bit too high on the first layer. It might be worthwhile to check the Z height adjustment.
Click to expand...
The Z height needs to be as precise as you can get it, but sometimes it's hard to get all 4 corners 100% perfect, and to compensate you can set your slicer to extrude extra material on your first layer. I find that this also helps with bed adhesion. The only minor drawback is that you end up with a slight lip at the very bottom of your print, but a quick scrape with a hobby knife or sandpaper takes it away.
 
mikemcE said:
To flatten a plane it is easier to have 3 points, with 4 you are always off somewhere. I tried it with the stock plate as some did, I wasn’t happy, but the noisy bearings were a large part of switching back to stock.

https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2017/07/3-point-print-bed-leveling-vs-4-point.html?m=1


Hang up and Drive
Click to expand...
While 3 point leveling is a lot easier to do, the downside is the lack of support on the corners allow the bed to wobble when the Y-axis is accelerating/decelerating. This can cause ghosting in the print's y axis.

Both 4 pt and 3pt "leveling" have trade offs and strong points. However,
bottom line is that trying stuff out is fun and full of learning so give it a try and report back.
 
MasteroFlego said:
I've always printed PLA with a bed temp of 60° (the max for my MPSM). I'll try to find some gluestick and print without tape, and I'll eventually get a PEI bed.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

i peeled my stock mat off the first week. I switched to Blue 2" 3M tape.
I do not have any lifting, bed temp is 55C for PLA 80C PETG no glue, clean and level.
if i heat my bed, then smooth tape with my spatula, i get smooth bottoms also, not like glass, but smooth.
 
Gramps said:
Do you guys keep logs of your print jobs? If so what do you record in them?
Click to expand...

I normally like to take note of how many hours I have on my printers, than make note of a maintenance hour. I have had printers where 4000 hours on them and the bearings were like new and then a printer where 500 hours and it needed bearings so I 3d printed bearings for it lol
I also take note on what filament I use and settings for it(abs,pla,petg,pc,nylon,carbonfiber,tpu)
 
Gramps said:
Do you guys keep logs of your print jobs? If so what do you record in them?
Click to expand...
i just kept a sheet of paper with settings, and as I changed them I wrote them down. once I established my baseline, I copied the Cura config in windows.
Now I have 4 separate configs, Fine and draft both PLA and PETG
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
3d Printing ?
Replies
5
Views
833
JatoTheRipper
JatoTheRipper
Fallen
3D Printing Material?
2
Replies
27
Views
2K
lagerratrobe
L
brianw
New Vendor - 3d print services
Replies
5
Views
1K
Gula
Gula
L
UTB18B Driveshafts
Replies
2
Views
253
lagerratrobe
L
G
3D printing
Replies
17
Views
2K
themountain
T
Back
Top