Last time I checked I'd have to get it custom cut and install spacers. Plus, glass breaks. It's a hassle that I don't feel that I need on such a small bet at least not at this time.
-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
Last time I checked I'd have to get it custom cut and install spacers. Plus, glass breaks. It's a hassle that I don't feel that I need on such a small bet at least not at this time.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/130mm-x-16...526590?hash=item4d641430be:g:lVgAAOSw05taTuwU
Fits perfectly, leave access for the screws still. He has ones that almost fit perfectly(factory cut wrong) for $13 too. Bit of a pia to get at the screws on those.
I use mini binder clips to hold it down. Someone else was using double sided tape, but IDK about that...
I switched to a v6 head at the same time and it was within 1 turn on the screws for height. The stock screws aren't quite long enough for the factory head, but could be replaced with longer 3mm countersunk screws. Springs/etc are all long enough
Fits perfectly, leave access for the screws still. He has ones that almost fit perfectly(factory cut wrong) for $13 too. Bit of a pia to get at the screws on those.
I use mini binder clips to hold it down. Someone else was using double sided tape, but IDK about that...
I switched to a v6 head at the same time and it was within 1 turn on the screws for height. The stock screws aren't quite long enough for the factory head, but could be replaced with longer 3mm countersunk screws. Springs/etc are all long enough
Level that bed and print out the clip on spacer. There is one on thingiverse that you modify to the thickness of the glass. It's damn near stupid proof. Hell you can grab a $2 picture frame and rob the glass to see how it suits you.
This one here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029
Last edited:
k7zpj
RCC Addict
For the mini, I would look at the BuildTak FlexPlate System.
https://www.buildtak.com/product/buildtak-flexplate-system/
The magnetic base will help keep the stock heated bed from warping.
If you heated bed is badly warped, you should replace it before doing the FlexPlate System.
Thanks. I believe BuildTak is what I have installed now.
Stupid extruder motor took a crap. Then the one I bought was slightly longer and didn't fit.
They should have offset it to not interfere with the Z axis rod.
At least I have the one piece Z axis stepper motor/rod in now. The V2 has the nema17 holes already drilled out.
They should have offset it to not interfere with the Z axis rod.
At least I have the one piece Z axis stepper motor/rod in now. The V2 has the nema17 holes already drilled out.
MasteroFlego
Rock Crawler
How long or rather how much have you been printing to burn out the E stepper? Just wondering if I should start looking for a replacement soon, I've been beating on mine since January.
Not long enough... I bought a replacement on amazon for $13. I'm not 100% sure it's the motor, but Ill find out tomorrow.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
If you have the stock heat bed, it comes with a BuildTak surface that is glued to the heat bed.
With the BuildTak FlexPlate system, you attach a magnetic base to the heat bed which is used to hold down a removable spring steel plate. The spring steel plate has a BuildTak sticker on it. When you are done printing, you take the plate off and flex it to remove the print.
Here is the video that explains it:
<iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UaIIuiiKReo" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0"></iframe>
Adding the layers of the magnetic base and spring steel sheet helps reduce warping of the heat bed.
The downsides:
The 114x114 kit is 6 mm smaller than the 120x120 build plate and the kit costs $40 plus shipping.
My Select Mini came with a raw, aluminum bed. It did not come with BuildTak.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
Got it, The only one I have played with was second hand.
Even more reason to use glass. The hard part is already done. Removing the build tack and adhesive was a PIA.
Anyone play with this yet? Just curious, I like how I can skip a part if its failing and keep printing the other stuff instead of scrapping the whole job.
Printrun: Pure Python 3d printing host software
Im bored at the real job so browsing around for a way to run a slicer of some sort directly from an android tablet.
Im not looking to go the full Pi setup or wifi. It would be nice if I could grab my files off my drop box, run them through 'a' slicer on my android tablet and pit the gcode out directly to the machine either USB or through a SDCard setup.
Anyone know a way? :mrgreen:
Printrun: Pure Python 3d printing host software
Im bored at the real job so browsing around for a way to run a slicer of some sort directly from an android tablet.
Im not looking to go the full Pi setup or wifi. It would be nice if I could grab my files off my drop box, run them through 'a' slicer on my android tablet and pit the gcode out directly to the machine either USB or through a SDCard setup.
Anyone know a way? :mrgreen:
Ditchrat
RCC Addict
Circling back around. I have discovered all of the visual setting available under expert, including the new ones available. Between that and some tuning I really got this printer producing consistently at .1mm layer height.
Time start some calibrations.
Figured out my extruder issues.
The heatbreak was sloppy in the heatsink, causing it to overheat and partially plug. Used thermal paste on the threads and everything looks to be working properly again.
Stupid Chinese tolerances.:evil:
The heatbreak was sloppy in the heatsink, causing it to overheat and partially plug. Used thermal paste on the threads and everything looks to be working properly again.
Stupid Chinese tolerances.:evil:
Sounds more then just tolerances. Did you check the thread piece that screws into the hot end? Maybe something happened to the teflon sleeve inside and is allowing heat creep? Is your fan coming on correctly and/or at all?
My heat sink is cut in half, I only half 5 fins of it compared the full stepper size it was. Fan blows on it but even thats modded to hang near it and not on it.
Thermal paste is more to equal heat over an area out, not really dissipate it or keep an area cooler.
