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3d printer for rc parts
- Thread starter Desmo
- Start date
I picked up a Maker Select V2, thanks to this thread.
I have been printing non-stop since about 1.5 hours after I got it.
Benchy boats, Parts for my BMW
and currently this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:842254
I have been printing non-stop since about 1.5 hours after I got it.
Benchy boats, Parts for my BMW
and currently this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:842254
Let us know how that turns out please. Been looking at that to print, but I'm a Ford guy. [emoji23][emoji23]. I have an AX10 with VW body, back wide open. Want to put a motor out back.
Makergear M2 Dual and Prude I3
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Holy crap !! A lot of printing and an entire engine !!
I love the idea of a printed parts thread. I think it would be perfect to post a pic and a link to the file site as "fuzzy" did above. Lots of sites to search and so hard to tell what something is saved as and to know what terms to search for. This would be a great help !
urjustamemory
Newbie
The space to put the receiver is small, be prepared to enlarge it. It barely fits my antenna-less receiver and forget about it with servos plugged into it. But if you plan on doing it for looks than you should be good.
nedmo
Quarry Creeper
I need to buy a friggen printer already! I have so many designs!
Just did this fuel cell receiver box.
http://autode.sk/2sdBnYd
Just did this fuel cell receiver box.
http://autode.sk/2sdBnYd
Hydrocarbon92
Rock Crawler
While PLA may not have the same strength as ABS, 3D printed parts can gain strength differently from injection-molded ABS parts. You can make a semi-hollow wheel with much thicker spokes, for example, which has better structural support. I tested some wheels in PLA and they were fine, while I have two Axial IFD wheels with cracked spokes because they're thin as toothpicks. When you print it with PETG it's even stronger.
If you lookup a few vids that test real-world strength rather than "I read it somewhere", you'll see the PLA argument isn't a simple one. A thicker part with a 30% infill "skeleton" will be several times stronger than needed. In many cases people can't fold a 0.25x1" beam that's 6" long. It's when parts must have tiny little bits w/o reinforcement is when they get weak, but who hasn't had an injectrion-molded plastic part crack small bits off?
If you lookup a few vids that test real-world strength rather than "I read it somewhere", you'll see the PLA argument isn't a simple one. A thicker part with a 30% infill "skeleton" will be several times stronger than needed. In many cases people can't fold a 0.25x1" beam that's 6" long. It's when parts must have tiny little bits w/o reinforcement is when they get weak, but who hasn't had an injectrion-molded plastic part crack small bits off?
Yes most plastics absorbs water from air, as soon as they are exposed to air they will. And yes their mechanical properties change from a dry stage to a water absorbed stage. But do not worry usually the mechanical properties that are given from a supplier are in absorbed stage, not dry.
In other words most plastic around you have water inside. But that does not mean that they dissolve in water. The water molecules just get in between some intermolecular spaces of the plastic but they do not break the molecular bonds.
It is recomendable that when using any heating process to a plastic like 3printing, injecting, thermoforming, etc. the plastic is dry in order to avoid faulty parts, due to the expansion of the water steam when heated. (It can create bubbles, warping, bad surface finish, etc.)
PLA and ABS do not absorb much water in comparison with other plastics like Nylon or PC. Anyway when not in use it is recomendable to keep them in a sealed bag with desiccants in order to avoid the get too "wet"
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Yes, PLA absorbs moisture and it will become brittle and useless if you don't keep it locked in an airtight container with desiccant.
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
You can hear it popping when extruding . A simple home food dehydrator set at 110f will dry spools out. Dessicant in a big sealed tub for storage.
Hang up and Drive
k7zpj
RCC Addict
The printed objects keep on absorbing moisture until till they reach equilibrium with the moisture in the air.
The plastic is designed so that it can absorb moisture and still be fit for the intended use. So unless you heat/extrude it, you won't see any difference.
k7zpj
RCC Addict
The extruded plastic in the picture below is PETG that was left out of the bag for about 24 hours. Each of the shiny spots is a bubble in the plastic.
OK so I downloaded the Cura 3.2 software and can't figure out which printer to select in the setup? If I select the only Maker listed (mini) the software just shuts down. I bought the Maker Select Plus 3D printer. The software and what model to select in the manual don't exist?
What software are you guys using and what printer did you tell it you had?
What software are you guys using and what printer did you tell it you had?
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I set it as custom. The prussia3 is quite close
Start with the cura version on the SD card, that will give you your basic settings.
Hang up and Drive
Start with the cura version on the SD card, that will give you your basic settings.
Hang up and Drive
mikemcE
I wanna be Dave
I set up the older version on the SD card and used those settings in 3.1
Hang up and Drive
Hang up and Drive
