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BgredPhoenix
- Thread starter bgredjeep
- Start date
Yep, I like what’s going on in here!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks guys. I just got the slider and battery final mounted. I don't have corner scales, but it should be pretty well balanced with this location. I ordered some of that fancy wire loom so I can clean up all these wires, then it's ready to drive. Still not in love with the body, but it'll do for a bit.
Final weight, rtr. Ended up about a half pound more than my scx10 pro, so not bad at all
Final weight, rtr. Ended up about a half pound more than my scx10 pro, so not bad at all
Does your battery fit between those screws? If so, id suggest using longer screws. I had my batt held down like your design, n it would slip out of the strap. So i used longer screws just to prevent it from sliding out n being drug along
I'll keep an eye on it and I can add a stop if needed. I made a similar mount for my scx10 pro and that's been ok so far.
I got an idea from a car I saw on ig. They were on an aftermarket chassis, but they ditched the tube bed sides and were only running the side panels. It narrowed the bed and looked pretty good, so I decided to give it a try.
Figured it would be good for some weight savings as well. I suspect it might not hold up on the trails depending on how I treat it. I've got the Coyote in reserve and still not loving the stock body so it is what it is. Lol
Figured it would be good for some weight savings as well. I suspect it might not hold up on the trails depending on how I treat it. I've got the Coyote in reserve and still not loving the stock body so it is what it is. Lol
Looks great I may have to steal that bed cage idea
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I got the Phoenix out yesterday for its first run. I'm happy with how it worked for what I've done so far. The tires work great on rock and the wood obstacles. They weren't great on the dirt climbs. No trouble with the car at all. An unexpected benefit of the chunky body was that when I rolled it tended to go all the way over and back onto the wheels. Lol
The only immediate changes I had planned by the time I finished the run are ssd brass knuckles on the front axle, and wider foams for the tires. I'd had the knuckles in my Amazon cart, but wanted to try it before I bought them. The guy I rode with yesterday had some wide CI foams (soft) he had ordered on accident so I picked up a pair for the fronts. I'll get the rear mediums eventually as well.
The only immediate changes I had planned by the time I finished the run are ssd brass knuckles on the front axle, and wider foams for the tires. I'd had the knuckles in my Amazon cart, but wanted to try it before I bought them. The guy I rode with yesterday had some wide CI foams (soft) he had ordered on accident so I picked up a pair for the fronts. I'll get the rear mediums eventually as well.
Maybe another similar rig. He bought the body a while back but it was a bad black paint job at the time iirc. It's a mix of scx10 and vp. Pretty sweet rig for sure.
Ch ch ch ch changes..
I added a little weight, and a little more wheelbase. I also got the wide foams installed in front. Went with wider hub adapters as well so it's about 1/2" wider overall.
Ssd brass knuckles showed up today. +57 grams each on the front axle should help on the trail.
For the stretch I just added the other side of the long trx4 rod ends. This is really at the limit of moving the front without moving some other parts around. Everything touches right at full bump (panhard on servo, tie rod on the chassis), so it should be ok. Wheelbase is right around 12.75" now which I like. I'm thinking I might need to swap my front and rear driveshafts, but I need to check the measurements to confirm.
I added a little weight, and a little more wheelbase. I also got the wide foams installed in front. Went with wider hub adapters as well so it's about 1/2" wider overall.
Ssd brass knuckles showed up today. +57 grams each on the front axle should help on the trail.
For the stretch I just added the other side of the long trx4 rod ends. This is really at the limit of moving the front without moving some other parts around. Everything touches right at full bump (panhard on servo, tie rod on the chassis), so it should be ok. Wheelbase is right around 12.75" now which I like. I'm thinking I might need to swap my front and rear driveshafts, but I need to check the measurements to confirm.
I wanted some shock towers for the Phoenix, but I wasn't really finding what I wanted. The rock pirates are ok, but I can't get past their oversized holes. I found another option, but they end up being like $50 for the set and at that I'm getting into chassis money.
Instead I took some measurements and drew my own towers. I printed one to check the fit, but didn't feel like cutting them out myself so I gave send cut send a try. These ended up costing around $6 each. They have a $29 min order so I tossed in another piece I can use later to hit the limit. Free shipping as well, so for less than a pair of towers I could buy I've got the full set made. The first hole is the same as stock. The top 2 holes are for body mounts (scx10 pro style).
Fenders trimmed to fit
Instead I took some measurements and drew my own towers. I printed one to check the fit, but didn't feel like cutting them out myself so I gave send cut send a try. These ended up costing around $6 each. They have a $29 min order so I tossed in another piece I can use later to hit the limit. Free shipping as well, so for less than a pair of towers I could buy I've got the full set made. The first hole is the same as stock. The top 2 holes are for body mounts (scx10 pro style).
Fenders trimmed to fit
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Looks great [emoji1303] sendcutsend is a great resource. Opens up a whole new world of potential.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
nice to know a bit more and a ballpark of what it cost sendcutsend ... thanks for the info ... also the rig is looking mean with the stance ... should be more capable with the slight lay down shocks.
Yeah, it was really reasonable. The cost adjusts based on material and thickness, but I did .125" 7075 al at that price. There is some limitation on the available materials and thickness, I could have used thinner material, but this was the thinnest available in 7075.
I almost did titanium, just to be a little extra, but I wasn't going to get any benefit over AL for this part. I also looked at carbon fiber, which would have been sweet, but they had a minimum length requirement for that material that I didn't meet.
I switched to a straight tie-rod and offset rod ends on the Phoenix. I used a dlux link and Traxxas rod ends.
I forgot to snap a before pic
Another random pic I took while i was working on the steering. When I was trimming the body a while back I cut the clear portion of the grill out so you could be through to the radiator better. The radiator is painted with a krylon aluminum paint.
I forgot to snap a before pic
Another random pic I took while i was working on the steering. When I was trimming the body a while back I cut the clear portion of the grill out so you could be through to the radiator better. The radiator is painted with a krylon aluminum paint.
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New body goofin. Local hobbytown finally got the tucked k10 I had ordered. I'm very glad I didn't go that route for my scx10 pro. It's very wide and long, but should work great on the Phoenix.
I was hopeful I would have to cut on it, but my test fit confirmed that is not the case. It does look good, but the tires are going to eat it pretty bad.
Not really a problem, I just need to open up the wheel arches. I drew up a template for front and rear and printed them to mark the larger opening. Here's the initial cut in the rear, and a couple of the templates I made. Initially I raised them 15mm, but to get the body down to the bumpers it's going lower than I planned. The new templates raise the wheel openings 25mm.
You can see the lines for the higher cut drawn on the body.
And here's closer to the planned mounting height. I'm not cutting the sides yet, but just pulled them outside my sliders. I was hoping to keep the same shape for the wheel arches, but I'll end up adjusting the cut in front to suit the stock inner fenders. I can always cut more later if I make new fenders.
I was hopeful I would have to cut on it, but my test fit confirmed that is not the case. It does look good, but the tires are going to eat it pretty bad.
Not really a problem, I just need to open up the wheel arches. I drew up a template for front and rear and printed them to mark the larger opening. Here's the initial cut in the rear, and a couple of the templates I made. Initially I raised them 15mm, but to get the body down to the bumpers it's going lower than I planned. The new templates raise the wheel openings 25mm.
You can see the lines for the higher cut drawn on the body.
And here's closer to the planned mounting height. I'm not cutting the sides yet, but just pulled them outside my sliders. I was hoping to keep the same shape for the wheel arches, but I'll end up adjusting the cut in front to suit the stock inner fenders. I can always cut more later if I make new fenders.
I got the body trimmed up and mounted. I was able to make use of the original Phoenix hinge mount. The grill fits, but not the right look. I drew up a new grill this morning that will replace this and should match the body better. I'll update once I get it printed if it works out.
