Chassis tuning with pan hard bar added.....

[blarouche]

would this mean my tie rod, or panard are too long? how do you digure out the proper measurement?

 

[Hotrodvw]

I'd build the panhard and get the axle centered, then make the drag link the same length.

 

[blarouche]

do you center the axle at ride height, full droop, or full compression?

 

[Hotrodvw]

I did mine at ride height.......then compressed just a bit.

 

[DadCanyoufix?]

Took the springs out of my shocks, wired up the housing up around the chassis with lower links and passenger upper installed. So the wire held the axle in the middle of my travel range. Measured and set pan hard, and drag link. Put springs back in and test, adjust, test until just right or acceptable by my standards.

 

[blarouche]

Take a look at these pics for some reason my axle will only full compress when it is hard to the left. Even with the panard off. I can't get the right to fully compress without it being way off to the left.

The axle is centered at ride higher and then goes weird from there.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[blarouche]

Full droop

As much compression I can get with it staying centered.

What it does at full compression

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[doublej]

Your links are play games with your pinion angle and probably binding also.
Take the drive shaft out and cycle, then remove the upper link and cycle - I'm betting its some where there.
Upper link is too long, links are not aligned, etc

 

[lonleycreeper]

Upper link is definitely to long. Your steering knuckles should be parallel with the ground when viewed from the side.
I suspect this is causing your pan hard bar to bind.

It is normal to have the axle move side to side when 3linked with a pan hard bar. This is the nature of the beast.

The links all appear to be at extreme angles, this could be another part of your problem.

 

[blarouche]

I will try both of those suggestions tonight. I had to increase my upper link length so the drive shaft would not bind at full droop. I had it shorter before but as soon as the front end droops out the drive shaft would bind.

 

[DadCanyoufix?]

I will try both of those suggestions tonight. I had to increase my upper link length so the drive shaft would not bind at full droop. I had it shorter before but as soon as the front end droops out the drive shaft would bind.

In order to run those longer shocks, you will likely have to stretch the wheel base in order to save driveline angle. Clockable C hubs help a little, but the housing can only be rotated so far until the link mounting points on the axle must be moved(not easy to do with plastic housings) to preserve geometry and avoid binding.

You can also use limiting straps, lowering kits or smaller shocks. If that doesn't suit your build though, I think you will need to stretch the wheel base to utilize The shocks you have now. You could try laying them back as well, but that will give your chassis leverage on the suspension and will likely end with torque twist and sloppy side hilling.

 

[blarouche]

Thanks for the info, I was just thinking I should run a 100mm shock. I think these are 110, and I can't stretch the wheel base, because it fits the specific body. I will reduce the top link so the kuckles are even with the bench, then I will start to remove the drive shaft to see why it will not go up and down centered.