Coming soon .....GMADE GOM-GR1 Rock Buggy

[MELKORsXJ]

Would swapping the + & - leads from the motor to esc make a difference, and then reversing the channel on the transmitter?

I have been following this thread since my pre-order, and have built my GOM (having trouble sharing/hosting pics)... anyways, I've noticed it seems faster in reverse than forward (stock axial 27t motor), not sure if my idea would cause any trouble or worth the effort.

 

[soze]

Would swapping the + & - leads from the motor to esc make a difference, and then reversing the channel on the transmitter?

I have been following this thread since my pre-order, and have built my GOM (having trouble sharing/hosting pics)... anyways, I've noticed it seems faster in reverse than forward (stock axial 27t motor), not sure if my idea would cause any trouble or worth the effort.

You'd need to change the rotation direction of the gears to get it to go forward. And you're still running into the timing issue since the motor is just spinning the other way with a push instead of pull of the trigger.

 

[RcAnt]

Hi. Could someone let me know what the width of the roof is? I need to get a light bar ordered and I’m still waiting for my GOM.

Thanks

 

[Jay-Em]

Hi. Could someone let me know what the width of the roof is? I need to get a light bar ordered and I’m still waiting for my GOM.

Thanks

12,5 cm

 

[MELKORsXJ]

You'd need to change the rotation direction of the gears to get it to go forward. And you're still running into the timing issue since the motor is just spinning the other way with a push instead of pull of the trigger.

I didn't think it would... just wanted another input on it, thanks!
(Similar to a 1:1 transaxle buggy, they flip the axle diffs depending on engine rotation & orientation in the buggy.)

 

[RcAnt]

12,5 cm

Thank you

 

[Brake Weight]

Can the axles be swapped front to rear and rear to front? Then the lockouts and Chubs swapped.

 

[soze]

Can the axles be swapped front to rear and rear to front? Then the lockouts and Chubs swapped.

I don't think it'd matter... the axles are the same front and rear. The only reason they turn different rotation directions between front and rear is the gearing done in the transfer case.

 

[Brake Weight]

I don't think it'd matter... the axles are the same front and rear. The only reason they turn different rotation directions between front and rear is the gearing done in the transfer case.

Damn. After I got off work and thought a little longer, it won't work. I had ar60 axles in my head.

 

[Dustinf]

You’re welcome!

Funny detail: I never thought that my archaic knowledge of brushed motors would be of any use anymore since I, and the rest of the world, went fully brushless somewhere in the late 90’s, early noughts..... until I discovered crawlers and trail-trucks.

Back to the GOM.

I was struggling to find an out-of-sight place to fit a receiver and a light-controller box. But lo’ and behold. After putting-in the interior, I discovered that behind the chairs there is a perfect little tray to stick electronics to. More or less protected from the elements by a bit of roof and the radiator.

Only thing needed now are some servo-extension leads, that are already on order, together with a nice Hobbywing 1080 to replace the Hpi 15wp. ( I plan to stick with brushed for now. It’s full-on fall overhere. A very WET fall. )
I have a little more faith in brushed motors in the wet. Too much trouble to get sensored brushless fully watertight, ( and I’m out of plasti-dip) though, truth be told, the fact that the motor sits up high dóes help with that.

I noticed that shelf too... tons of room on the skid and it's fairly well hidden. I have a little waterproof hobby box that I'm going to mount there. I'll probably put a light controller or something in it, though I'm trying to keep this rig simple.

All my other fast trucks get the full scale feature treatment and I regret it when they start falling apart at speed.

 

[Jeepiac]

Alright, taking this damn thing for it's first flogging today @ Goat Hill. This place will prove it to be a good rig or leave it bleeding to death with it's guts hanging out. As much as I initially hated this thing, I may be coming around. Still detest the way it's laid out, and even after watching videos of it running brushless, I'm scared of those sloppy fitting 1/12 scale lockers. I'm only running 2s (I think) with a Holmes 13t motor, so I think everything will do good. Other than aluminum wheels, Super Swamper tires and some good ole China drive shafts, it's stock, so I can get a good idea of what really needs modified (other than steering) "thumbsup" Wish me luck :mrgreen:

 

[Jay-Em]

Aww, duude.. it isn’t thàt bad..

I haven’t ‘crawled’ it really, but did clamber up and down stairs for hours and ran it through high grass, mud and did some “rallying” over grit. With the current 17double Orion V-brush on 2s, it runs admirably, silent. No strange rattles, no peep from the rear locker, and with my home-made sway bars, it even stopped its incessant rolling over in even the smallest bit of cornering.

I have to be honest, and have to admit that it ran better than my Wraiths straight from the box. The Wraiths ALL ate their plastic gears in the first two packs, bent their arms a bit later, and only after a hefty investment -steel gears, aluminium swingarms, sway bars, cvd’s in the front etc- is was a ‘good’ car. And yet, I never hated the Wraith. I even got three of them. And all are now more or less bombproof.

If there’s óne thing that I’m nòt too fond of, than it must be the fact that the GOM sits rather high, great for gnarly terrain, but a little tippy at speed as a consequence, where the Wraith can be lowered quite a bit to counter that. However, having said that, swaybars make a world of difference on the GOM.

But, that’s just my personal opinion. YRMV.. Added to that, I’m quite a positive guy. I really never encountered a car that I truly hated. And by now I got about 40 different RC cars.Some were difficult, or had some annoying flaws, but I still never actually háted a car.

 

[soze]

Alright, taking this damn thing for it's first flogging today @ Goat Hill. This place will prove it to be a good rig or leave it bleeding to death with it's guts hanging out. As much as I initially hated this thing, I may be coming around. Still detest the way it's laid out, and even after watching videos of it running brushless, I'm scared of those sloppy fitting 1/12 scale lockers. I'm only running 2s (I think) with a Holmes 13t motor, so I think everything will do good. Other than aluminum wheels, Super Swamper tires and some good ole China drive shafts, it's stock, so I can get a good idea of what really needs modified (other than steering) "thumbsup" Wish me luck :mrgreen:

What are these China drive shafts you speak of? I may need some for a project on another car.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

 

[Jeepiac]

After all the fitment issues with parts, missing and wrong hardware not to mention one of the worst designed kits I've ever had the displeasure of building, I was determined to hate this thing. At the end of 3 straight hours of crawling one of the hardest crawl spots in my area I think I'm falling in love. A few bugs to work out like the worst steering in the industry, overly light ass end and excessive amount of rear suspension travel, not to mention after the dirt and debris found its way to the stupidly designed shifter setup the dig position was unusable. I think I may gear it up a couple of teeth and just forget about trying to use the 2 speed and dig. To bad they aren't going to be reliable in the real world because dig is one of my favorite tools in a comp, but the steering in stock form is so bad that the dig isn't much help anyway. So many flaws, but it somehow walks over anything in it's path. Hands down will kick the crap out of a stock Wraith in the technical crawling scene, and with some work will be a monster in the rocks. Only real concern is the width. Trying to squeeze this wide ass beast through 13" wide gates might not work out so well. But I think it's worth the time to at least put some more effort into to enhance the performance and at least make a really good trail rig out of it. I've already got a dedicated C3 rig as it is, so this one will be a fun buggy "thumbsup" Gotta throw in a picture of the unfinished bouncer the kid was running tonight. :mrgreen: Yet another project thats probably never going to get finished lol

 

[Jeepiac]

What are these China drive shafts you speak of? I may need some for a project on another car.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/172655889157

Be warned before you buy these, one of the cross pins was to short and wouldn't stay in place. Luckily I found a needle bearing from an old u-joint at work that fit perfectly. Also not sure how these will do under massive power. So far they seem to be doing ok. I've bought a couple of the shorter ones and they are doing fine, but are in tiny tired scalers, so they dont get a lot of abuse.

 

[Dustinf]

Aww, duude.. it isn’t thàt bad..

I haven’t ‘crawled’ it really, but did clamber up and down stairs for hours and ran it through high grass, mud and did some “rallying” over grit. With the current 17double Orion V-brush on 2s, it runs admirably, silent. No strange rattles, no peep from the rear locker, and with my home-made sway bars, it even stopped its incessant rolling over in even the smallest bit of cornering.

I have to be honest, and have to admit that it ran better than my Wraiths straight from the box. The Wraiths ALL ate their plastic gears in the first two packs, bent their arms a bit later, and only after a hefty investment -steel gears, aluminium swingarms, sway bars, cvd’s in the front etc- is was a ‘good’ car. And yet, I never hated the Wraith. I even got three of them. And all are now more or less bombproof.

If there’s óne thing that I’m nòt too fond of, than it must be the fact that the GOM sits rather high, great for gnarly terrain, but a little tippy at speed as a consequence, where the Wraith can be lowered quite a bit to counter that. However, having said that, swaybars make a world of difference on the GOM.

But, that’s just my personal opinion. YRMV.. Added to that, I’m quite a positive guy. I really never encountered a car that I truly hated. And by now I got about 40 different RC cars.Some were difficult, or had some annoying flaws, but I still never actually háted a car.

That's a really nice overview.

I too am pretty positive and it would take a lot for me to hate a lot I bought. Part of it might be that when I spend this kind of money... I hate to admit it was a bad choice.

Now the twin hammers... still don't love it and I border on hate. Especially because of the serious money and time i dumped into trying to make it better.. not to mention building a styrene interior for it... but enough on that.

Sway Bars are a must. Ive never ran mine without them, but I can just tell it would be a nightmare at speed without.

Today I turned the 4100kv up to max timing.. just to be reckless. I had this thing going 35mph... and will never do that again.

Long story short.. if I havnt blown something yet, I would imagine anyone else having a tough time doing so.. maybe a real ballsy brushed can and a nasty bind would do it.

I opened up my front diff tonight. Going to run it tomorrow.

As for the shifting. Someone said it earlier. Setting the end points really high seemed to help.. but that does nothing for dirt and debris.

 

[Jay-Em]

@Jeeepiac. I am really sorry that You had so many problems with the GOM kit. None of what You describe, was encountered by me. None whatsoever. Fit was flawless, hardware sizes spot-on. Scary precise even, Tamiya-precise, as I like to call it (and withóut the classic Tamiya slop in the steering ) Tech works, etc.
Do You still have the original box? If all is well, there should be a little bussiness card in it with the date of production, and a small check list. Mine states 2017-10-12 as the date of production. Which means I got the kit about a week after production. And is probably a second run.

(Something else : I looooove that bouncer of Yours. My secret wish is that Axial produces a true to scale rock bouncer one day. They are really good with cage work, so producing a scale-looking bouncer/southern rock buggy should be easy peasy for them. Big V8 up front to hide the motor, RC4wd-like, interior with drivers, etc. *sigh* a guy may dream..)

The shifter is a nice idea, designed like a tech-head’s dream, but somewhat flawed in practice. It reminded me of the overly complex way Tamiya tends to design its cars. In my book that’s a positive. I’m a tech head more than a racer.

Not that it’s bad, far from it, but f.i. that open slot, where the shifter connector slides in, is bóund to get filled with muck, and start to bind.

The solution to shifting troubles is using a hefty - at least 6kg- servo, and, indeed, setting the end-points to about 115%. I just put the shifter in dig, adjusted it until the servo stopped buzzing, and repeated that for second gear. For me it all works fine now, I can use the dig without any problems. It’s a bit of an odd sight to see a car turn on the spot, I have to admit. Like with the TwinHammers, adjusting the shifting is a precise job that cannot be rushed. And that one has been running flawless ever since.

Truth be told, I’m not a hardcore crawler, added to that there is a significant lack of rocks, or even serious hilly terrain in the Netherlands. I have to make do with piles of rubble and “human” obstacles like stairs and such.. :razz:

Crawlers never get stressed to the extreme by me. But even then, I broke many parts on the Wraith. It’s -in stock form- not conceived for 55km/h in the rough :lmao:

Let’s just say that I have several other cars to sate my thirst for speed, Losi 10scbe, Losi Baja Rey, HBX Hammerhead, several touring cars, some TXT-based MT’s with ridiculous 1/8 motors in it..well, You get the picture. My crawlers and trailers are mostly used for some sedate put-putting around and clambering over all kinds of obstacles just to see if they can.

 

[Jeepiac]

Jay-Em, I'm pretty sure I got an early production unit due to the fact I pre-ordered mine and it was here in early October. And I seen to be jinxed anyway. If there is a flawed one in the mix I'll get it every single time or something always seems to go wrong. Kind of like the TFL bronco I ordered over a month ago that must have jumped off the plane somewhere over the ocean :roll:
As for the shifting, I'm running a 20kg servo at 7 volts, and by the end of the night I had the end points set at 120%. Yes, the servo was raising hell! Part of the trouble it the shift rods stopped wanting to return to their released position. And yes I greased everything and had it working freely before hand, so don't go there ;-)
Funny you mentioned Southern style bouncer because thats what I run when I'm being serious about crawling. Look up Underground Chassis Works on Facebook when you decide to go that rout and be sure to tell Jeff that Jon sent you, so he better make you a good deal "thumbsup"

 

[Jay-Em]

Yup.. gunked-up shifter slider. *pondering* Mebbe a rubber cover with a slot in it, could fix part of that. That the front part of the shift-arm slot hangs-out in the open in the front, saying “welcome, all you little bits of dirt and pebbles” isn’t helping at all. It would have been better if Gmade had made the middle part -that runs into the slot- from a flat, angled, piece of metal. That way, a rubber cover with a slit in it could have done reasonably well keeping the gunk out. And some way to fully close the tunnel would also have been nice. * looks at a tube of black silicone caulk* hmmm...

All in all, Yours sounds very much like one of a bunch of semi pre-production units, that -once test-built byGmade themselves- would’ve probably triggered a whole lotta “Ow Sh**.. Back to the drawing board” ( or more like : reload CAD, preheat the 3d printer and do some re-thinking) moments for the engineers...

 

[Barndog Racing]

On mine when the shifter got stuck I took it apart and inside the tranny the shift fork and piece on the square shaft seem to bind.Kind of like the shift dawg on the shaft is a little loose and tilts then jams in place.I need to see if there is a better way to achieve this.