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Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks
- Thread starter EeePee
- Start date
killswitch
RCC Addict
Im pretty sure Ive cut the trinity Emaxx 550 arms on my cobra lathe before
AlmstEvil665
Quarry Creeper
Greatest thread ever. I have been cutting comms for a while now. It makes a difference thats for sure. I need to learn more about brush hood alignment. Seems like there is a lot I don't know yet. A lot of good info in this thread.
Where can I get more info on shimming the arm using the push pull method and spinning method?
How exactly do you align the brush hoods? After you use the hood alignment tool is it all trial and error from there? Where the heck can I find a socket to fit the post the brush springs sit on? It seems like they are not quite 4mm or 1/4. I had to use pliers on mine.
Got a lot more questions just need to do some more research and reading. i'm cutting some comms for a guy in our club today. I have an Integy automatic feed lathe I picked up for $40 bucks and I love it. It has a carbide bit and works really well. I used to make a bunch of small passes and it took me forever. Now I take bigger bites and only make about 5 passes and I seem to get a much better cut. I mic before and after every cut as well and don't take off near as much material either.
Where can I get more info on shimming the arm using the push pull method and spinning method?
How exactly do you align the brush hoods? After you use the hood alignment tool is it all trial and error from there? Where the heck can I find a socket to fit the post the brush springs sit on? It seems like they are not quite 4mm or 1/4. I had to use pliers on mine.
Got a lot more questions just need to do some more research and reading. i'm cutting some comms for a guy in our club today. I have an Integy automatic feed lathe I picked up for $40 bucks and I love it. It has a carbide bit and works really well. I used to make a bunch of small passes and it took me forever. Now I take bigger bites and only make about 5 passes and I seem to get a much better cut. I mic before and after every cut as well and don't take off near as much material either.
TEDROCKZ
I wanna be Dave
Integy,Muchmore Racing, Nif-tech has a hood wrench, it is a 4.5mm socket. Thin-walled deal to get into tight spots.
Hood alignment is a bigger deal in racing being they are usually forward only motors. This was to counter the slop or correct the brush to comm alignment in the direction the motor spins. My thinking is on a crawler motor is to align the hoods straight through with the bar and lock them down there. Because we reverse a lot I think tweaking them is a bother.
Shimming the arm is kinda a "feel" issue. The arm wants to sit in a certain spot in the can on its own. You just shim to keep it in that position.
TEDROCKZ
I wanna be Dave
rock hard
dnf
you can bake them also but once you heat them up your weakening the magnets .....
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Yes, and I'm thinking you might be able to flip them around to get a little more space between them, and then not have to cut holes.
"thumbsup"
I assemble the motor with no shims and eyeball where the arm sits in the magnetic field. Find some point of reference so you can add the appropriate amount of shims to get it close to that, or you could use a Sharpie marker and make a small dot on the shaft right at the bearing. So after the pinion side has the shim stack you then need to add the correct amount of shims on the comm side to have just a small tiny bit of float. Like Tedrockz said, it's a lot feel to it, but I don't think it has to be all that perfect, but really, I don't know. I feel if I can get it close, and also not have a lot of movement, I'm good.
The spinning method? Assemble the motor with no shims and give it some low voltage and mark where the shaft is coming out of the bearing and hit it with a Sharpie marker for a reference point? Is that the same thing? I think I read the magnetic field shifts when voltage is applied, so I guess it might be better. Maybe not.
I keep finding a lot of Integy motors way out of their magnetic alignment. Sometimes it's as easy as flipping the shim stacks top to bottom, sometimes they need no shims on one side at all. More than a few times I find just putting the brushes darn near center of the comm is the center of the magnetic field. I keep finding large variances with those motors, which I guess makes it interesting and gives me some good practice.
Completely trial and error. Might even take longer than cutting the comm. I've made a couple of posts in this thread about doing it, with pictures too. Is there something else I should explain? I can if you need some help. A couple times I've drilled out a hole to get more movement for better alignment, but more often than not, I can get the comm to hit the center of the brush without drilling a hole larger.
Who reverses? And in 2011, our speed controls will be forward only anyways.
TEDROCKZ
I wanna be Dave
True, until then:mrgreen:
That rule will only be good for one year the world is ending in 2012
Well, all the way in the end of December. Unless you watched that movie 2012. The dude was wrong, and surprise! That's why we should have had no reverses in 2010.
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
That does NOT ever get old.
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
TEDROCKZ
I wanna be Dave
Had to add a pic for some Tech, getting a little chatty in here
Rockcrawler
I wanna be Dave
Your stupid!
Had to add a pic for some Tech, getting a little chatty in here
View attachment 129526
View attachment 129527
:ror::ror:
Got to order all mine tomorrow. "thumbsup"
Did you get that bit in the mail? :mrgreen:
TEDROCKZ
I wanna be Dave
Today, I forgot it yesterday. Something else in the box also...
...:twisted:!!!???
slobin3d
I'm a stupid C U N T!
SO here's a question for you, If you have all this nice smooth comms and aligned hoods, how would advanced or retarded timing affect the power outputs?
