Cutting a motor commutator & motor tweaks

[EddieO]

Its great to be back.....I am 30 lbs lighter, addicted to comic books and I can play the piano!

Eeepee, make sure you are running it in for about 20 seconds or so after the second cut to make sure they are reseated properly.

Later EddieO

 

[EeePee]

Eeepee, make sure you are running it in for about 20 seconds

I'm glad you said 20 seconds, because that's about all I'm giving them. :ror:

 

[killswitch]

I know you don't wanna hear it, but you guys should REALLY be rebuilding these motors more often than you are......Later EddieO

the guys at my LHS give me grief all the time over how often i rebuild my motors. Is it bad that I really do it cuz it gets me out of the house, away from the wife and kids, and in the workshop? It doesnt help it that its the last resemblance of carpet racing I have left (my first true love)...

 

[TEDROCKZ]

Eddie or anyone else who may know...
I bought a motor lot from a guy that has many, many sets of brushes of all races and religions:mrgreen:. I about figured what they all are by the part #s except a few. Anybody got any info on these?:
Fantom 312s
Fantom 321s
Fantom 315s

I got about 30 sets of each and really don't know what they compare to.:ror:

 

[EddieO]

I don't know the fantom stuff really.... It's just repackaged brushes, so I never bought them. If you can get me a really ghod pic of the brush both face and the back of the brush where the shunt goes in.... While making sure on of the pics gives a decent profile of the brush I can id them no problem....

Most of their brushes were trinity or reedy.... Odds are you got 4499 or 767s.... Though I do think they sold the fbrush at one time and some Orion stuff....

I just realized I admitted in public I learned to play the piano.... Oof!

Later EddieO

 

[TEDROCKZ]

10-4 on the re-packaged stuff, I'm just trying to get a comparison to what they are, Say to a reedy or trinity. I'll get a pic in a few

Edit: left my camera at home, I'll get some pics later.

 

[dkf]

Got my lathe last week, an Integy/Xipp 3 lathe. I needed to turn down a threashed mag mayhem 550 arm which would not fit on the lathe out of the box so I made it fit.

Stock Plate

After Machining

Fits now. Cut 1

Cut 2

Cut 3

Cut 4

Cut 5

Cut 6

Cut 7

Cut 8

Finished

Comm was in bad shape and I took light cuts. Out of the box the lathe cut a .001" taper. After I stoned the knick off the one way and tightened the gib screws up it cut true.

 

[EeePee]

Huh, I have a Mag Mayhem, but I thought it was a 540?

I'll have look when I get home.

(Note to self, look at MM when you read this again.)

 

[dkf]

MM on left Epic 27t P2k on right. There is a pretty decent size difference.

 

[Rockcrawler]

Epic 27t P2k on right.

Looks like the P2k has seen better days. :lmao:

 

[EeePee]

Looks like it's spent some time in the bottom of a BBQ pit.

 

[dkf]

Its not as bad as it looks in the pic, but it was overheated a tad.:mrgreen:

 

[rock hard]

so I need some input,I got this used.
it has been modded for 380 sized cans. I was told it would come with a
pole reader. but it didn't so I have to pick one of those up before I do anything.
it comes with no written instructions.
I was told that the side with the small bolt is north. big is south.
get the pole reader and determine the n/s magnets in the can.
place can so north and south are matched to the zapper.

then hit the switch for about 3 seconds. the red light should get brighter.
then kill it. I was told that when I kill the power to the zapper,thats when it actually zapps the magnets.

does this sound correct to you guys.
this is supposed to be a rc thuunder brand zapper.

thanks guys

 

[TEDROCKZ]

Pic from their site:http://home.comcast.net/~tempest2000/zapper.htm(which is now defunct)

 

[EddieO]

You just need a cheap basic compass to read which pole is which.....nothing fancy.

To read magnet strength, you would need a gauss meter. I had one, but during a trip to race, we left it in the hotel.....and they could not find it.

And its been a year....but I believe you got the directions right. My holders are marked, so I never paid attention to the bolt. That's how the button works though.....

I still like my portable unit the best, but it takes too long zap a magnet because of the loading procedure. I'll try to get a pic of it up one of these days.

Later EddieO

 

[rentstdi]

An anybody clean this comm up for me? Its out of my fuel pump out of my real car. just kidding

 

[EeePee]

New stuff. Taken apart before I ran it. Looks like the brushes need a longer break in. Hard to tell, but they aren't fully seated.

The brushes on the motor look like the XX.

 

[rock hard]

ok I have a very odd question for you motor nuts.
I really would like to know if its possible to move the stator and comm
down the shaft? I have a wierd project I'm working on.
and it would be most beneficial if I could get an equal amount of shaft
out the can and endbell. is this even remotly possible?
I already killed one arm,if there is any trick I really need to know before I continue.

thanks guys

 

[EddieO]

Umm...not really....the comm is basically glued to the shaft, so I guess maybe you could try to heat it to soften the glue and then try to move it.

Send me a PM, and maybe you can tell me more about your project without telling the world. I might be able to tell you a way to accomplish what you are going for. I think I know what your trying to do....

Later EddieO

 

[rock hard]

thanks,I couldnt see any real sign of glue/epoxy.so I thought it was probably a tight press. I'll pm ya.