• Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.

    It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!

    Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.

ECX Barrage upgrades

Had to replace my first part on the barrage, my 2 year old finally killed the string servo, replaced with a cheap mg90s, faster and more torque than stock, and metal geared to boot
 
To those using gelande wheels. How are you tightening the wheel nut? Are you using stock spacers?
 
Its pretty simple. Remove a little plastic on the skid plate then the tranny drops in. I drilled holes in the frame rails to pit the 1.5mm screw in to side of tranny.



Theres a couple of pictures here:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/micro-scale-rigs/594081-ecx-barrage-double-motor-tranny.html



I have this trans as well, but I’m not totally impressed. I get one axle spin in and one stalling a lot of times.

It’s super quiet though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
To those using gelande wheels. How are you tightening the wheel nut? Are you using stock spacers?



They are a pain. I usually use the rc4wd barrel nuts, or take 4 of the bolts out, but it’s a pain to get the tool into them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That would be fine however the stock barrage adapters do not fit well in the gelande wheels and cause them to wobble. The gelande adapters do not fit on the barrage axels because of the taper.
 
I ordered my Ibex trans, was about $40 shipped to California from Modelsport UK. Definitely looking forward to lower gears, should be a ton better for crawling. Thought about getting a mini outback body too but I held off since its about $23 US!

Hi guys, I ordered the Modelsport set from the links provided, but as the picture in the link shows, I got the gear box, 3 pinions and 4 hex bits. I am missing the output shaft from the gear box to the drive shafts. Do I need to use bits from the original gear box? Thanks
 
I have a Barrage still in a sealed box I have been looking at for over two months now. Waiting for a special body or something to set me apart from the countless others.


Well, I was rummaging through my junk today and happened across the hulled remains of a never built Basher RockSta. I looked at the wheels and wondered if I could pull the tires off. Tossed it in the freezer for a few hours while I did other things like finding a set of Scramblers. I was able to pull about 80% of the tire, bead, and glue off. I trimmed the rest with a hobby knife and voila.

Here’s the RockSta next to a Trekker wheel.

Significantly wider.
f79b88e518dcef60cf5cd12acf67a9f8.jpg


A little taller.

946007aadb9e1525f3424551b14262ff.jpg



The gooder pics.
6783d624f9befae9ca3b16b7a294bc88.jpg



95e2423e0e0c7a24b9ee56924454cb6d.jpg



Hopefully more tomorrow if I can get the other three wheels stripped.
 
Meh. It may work for someone else but it’s too much for me. I guess I’ll swap the wheels/tires and put it back into the box.
bd3ba64e6faa34d6467fe8b96eee149e.jpg
 
Last edited:
I know I should feel dirty, but why do I like that?

reminds me of this "Dirt Every Day" episode

Motor-Trend-Ford-F354-Monster-Truck-1-700x325.png


and possibly this
ramcharger52.jpg
 
I tend to meditate on my rigs over morning coffee. Here’s a couple of freebies I did today.

I cut off 1.5 turns of each spring.
28cc66b5c8d0f4d73a7b7d2e764f8f8a.jpg


It’s just the width of one wire plus a little rise in the coil. Not much at all but it gives a couple mm of droop.
615ad28291beb543876a7fd83cbd0d08.jpg


Next I tried to lower the body posts to make the sides of the flatbed flush with the frame. The battery would not allow this so I moved it forward like previously mentioned. In the forward location over the CMS it will contact the body some. In this case there is no fear of rubbing the paint through since the body is white plastic.
9af045f7df1d3d71e72a0a7a1b4c6242.jpg


By lowering the body posts one notch I was able to use that to hold the O-ring in place. Note the contact with the body. Also, with the battery over the servo the front-rear weight is nearly 50/50. Using the wheelbase as it’s about 55/45.
7de96dc78ec36671b3d15040708c84bb.jpg


With the body posts lowered one notch it closes the rear gap nicely.
42c91dce6a9c71f3ee5282042a8ed37f.jpg


I still haven’t driven it. [emoji23]
 
Back
Top