TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
Pony up for the Savox SB 2290 SA and you won't regret that purchase.
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Got a GI Joe jeep and its smaller than I thought it would be
- Thread starter Druxus
- Start date
I've kind of shied away from savox because they were noisy. After a long trail run it wears on me with the constant noise from them. I have a promodeler in another rig and i have stalled it so i know its not perfect, but it is nice and quiet. I live in West Michigan so any rock crawling is on a engineered coarse or imported pile of rocks. So i dont necessarily need a servo that is able to twist itself out of a bind, but I wouldn't complain if it has that kind of torque and is also quite.
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slowmethinks
Quarry Creeper
I'm 0:3 on my HH HV500... My Savox 1230 (I'm sure too small for you) has held up, so far, to tougher punishment. So I'd give a +1 to the 2290.
slowmethinks
Quarry Creeper
Middle pin. They are supposed to improve it by machining a steel or brass bushing into the cover, but I'm not sure if that's happened yet or not.
I broke and bent a few of the pins from general trailing and light crawling... I was a bit disappointed. On a positive note, they did take care of the warranty work. But I was without a servo for about two weeks...
And no, I don't own a 2290. I have a two 1230's and a 1283. I don't have a rig yet in need of the 2290, only that I've heard good things on here about it and I've had far better luck with Savox than Holmes pertaining to servos.
I hope this helps. This is just my limited experience. "thumbsup"
Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
I used a Savox SA-1231S, 444 oz servo on my 1/6 scale 14 lb Hasbro Jeep, and it turned the 2.2 ProLine Super Swampers without any problems, even in a bind.
Hal
Quarry Creeper
What did you wind up using for headlights. I have a SWB TF2 with a Tamia YJ body. I did not like the square headlights so I made a new grille with round headlights. Now it looks like a CJ7. I have a 79 CJ 5 so.... close enough. Better than square. I drilled 3/4 in holes and fit Axial buckets in them with 5mm LEDs. I also found LED lights at Wally World that work on 12 volt (3s) they have a pretty good selection of various LEDs. The ones that fit in to dome lights also look promising. The ones I bought are .812 inch with an aluminum housing that may work for you also. Very nice rig so far. Good crawling, later
I ended up useing the aluminum buckets i made at work and they worked really well. Paired them with some 10mm super bright leds, i do wonder if they are almost to bright. I think the outer diameter of the light bucket was close to 1.5 inches. Wife has a cj7, never thought about turning a yj into a proper cj.
Are these savox servos quiet? I have gotten spoiled with the promodeler being so silent.
Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
Mine makes a whine, but I think it's because I need a BEC, cuz I go through batteries fast
Got some new proline super swampers in, not the xl ones. Seem like a nice tire and the memory foams seem to support the jeep good. Do the memory foams from proline break down and get softer? Thinking i will try them for a bit before i order some CI foams.
Decided to pull my promodeler servo from my other large scale and put it in the cj5. I am running off of the hobbywing 1080 at 6volts and it seems to be doing fine. Even at 6volts it has no problem turning the tires on the concrete or the carpet.
Now I just need to get some wheeling time in.
Decided to pull my promodeler servo from my other large scale and put it in the cj5. I am running off of the hobbywing 1080 at 6volts and it seems to be doing fine. Even at 6volts it has no problem turning the tires on the concrete or the carpet.
Now I just need to get some wheeling time in.
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Still have not gotten out during the day to try it out. My wife is going to Kansas to drop off suplies to farmers and ranchers affected by the wild fires. So i got talked into putting a fresh paint job on the horse trailer.
Primered up ready for paint last night.
painted up on easter.
managed to get a night run in last night, and the only thing i really got to test was the headlights. Which worked really good.
She is leaving me home next weekend when she does the aid run, so im hoping to some good run time in next weekend. "thumbsup"
Primered up ready for paint last night.
painted up on easter.
managed to get a night run in last night, and the only thing i really got to test was the headlights. Which worked really good.
She is leaving me home next weekend when she does the aid run, so im hoping to some good run time in next weekend. "thumbsup"
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I have got a decent amount of run time on the CJ5 including a comp i entered it in. The comp was a failure as far as placing, second to last. The front bumper screwed me a bunch of times in the comp, but i never built this to do comps in the first place. Was just hoping it would do better. Got some nasty scratches on it as well.
Did learn some good things about the jeep. The Proline foams that come with the swampers are not good enough for a rig of this weight. They are good enough for holding up the jeep, but not enough sidewall support they fold over really bad. I have another 2.2 lighter rig with Proline hyrax and stock foams that works fine. I'll be ordering some CI foams to make up for this.
The other thing was my 4 link setup was wrong, the rear axle kept trying to push it's self under the jeep if that makes sense. I made some extensions to bolt on the frame to raise the mount for the top links which helped alot.
Did learn some good things about the jeep. The Proline foams that come with the swampers are not good enough for a rig of this weight. They are good enough for holding up the jeep, but not enough sidewall support they fold over really bad. I have another 2.2 lighter rig with Proline hyrax and stock foams that works fine. I'll be ordering some CI foams to make up for this.
The other thing was my 4 link setup was wrong, the rear axle kept trying to push it's self under the jeep if that makes sense. I made some extensions to bolt on the frame to raise the mount for the top links which helped alot.
I had the same issue with foams on my 13 lb Willys. I ended up making new foams from X-firm auto upholstery foam. It seemed to do the trick for me.
I think a few guys are using some HD foams from Crawler Innovations with success.
I think a few guys are using some HD foams from Crawler Innovations with success.
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
I utilize CI's Deuces Wild inserts for my 1/6 due to its heavier weight.
I personally think they work well at reducing tire roll on side hills and when turning.
My TJ weighs around 12 - 14 #'s and the trailer loaded another 4 - 5 #'s
I utilize the PL TSL/XL's on the TJ and PL TSL SX on the trailer.
Both utilize the CI's DW inserts for their respective sizing. (5.80 & 5.5)
Video of them during harder/faster turning speeds on flat surface.
https://youtu.be/J1BMM51y25M
No video of them on an extreme side hill/angle... but they don't roll over the wheel bead much that I can see.
Maybe this video can offer some more insight...
https://youtu.be/KYhCgrKFKDg
Traction everywhere seems respectable to me. (tho' it's likely the tire compound that really shines)
Tire/sidwall deflection is less - nill... but too soft of an insert and heavier chassis weight
can result with too much tire deflection when rolling at angle, at higher speeds or when turning hard.
It may depend on what type wheelin' you intend to do...
But CI's Deuces Wild work well on the heavier rigs.
Worthy of the trade off IMO
Probably not a good choice for light weight rigs.
I personally think they work well at reducing tire roll on side hills and when turning.
My TJ weighs around 12 - 14 #'s and the trailer loaded another 4 - 5 #'s
I utilize the PL TSL/XL's on the TJ and PL TSL SX on the trailer.
Both utilize the CI's DW inserts for their respective sizing. (5.80 & 5.5)
Video of them during harder/faster turning speeds on flat surface.
https://youtu.be/J1BMM51y25M
No video of them on an extreme side hill/angle... but they don't roll over the wheel bead much that I can see.
Maybe this video can offer some more insight...
https://youtu.be/KYhCgrKFKDg
Traction everywhere seems respectable to me. (tho' it's likely the tire compound that really shines)
Tire/sidwall deflection is less - nill... but too soft of an insert and heavier chassis weight
can result with too much tire deflection when rolling at angle, at higher speeds or when turning hard.
It may depend on what type wheelin' you intend to do...
But CI's Deuces Wild work well on the heavier rigs.
Worthy of the trade off IMO
Probably not a good choice for light weight rigs.
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Been driving this jeep around and am wishing i had made it a leaf spring setup. So i have been scouring the forums here trying to find info of leaf spring setups for heavy vehicle's. I thought i remember someone on the large scale section did one, but i can't remember if it was the vehicle or a trailer.
I did find in the trash at work 1" bandsaw blade that had broken. I remember that was on the list of possible spring material
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I did find in the trash at work 1" bandsaw blade that had broken. I remember that was on the list of possible spring material
Mike Flea
I wanna be Dave
I used tines from a small garden rake to make leafs for my Jeep trailer, but it still needed shackles to make it flex, never got around to that before I gave the trailer to Tacocrawler.
The procedure for making loops in the tines is on pg 8, post #152, of my build thread, "New Project (for me)"
The procedure for making loops in the tines is on pg 8, post #152, of my build thread, "New Project (for me)"
TacoCrawler
I wanna be Dave
I'm the gratuitous owner of Mike's original trailer "thumbsup"
And I can attest that those rake tine leaf springs are still utilized and supportive.
I did not add shackle hangers to the rear of the leafs
Because the trailer carries a load regularly...
and too much compression would IMO be counter productive to supporting the current load weight.
I did however change the axle/hub design to SLW type hubs & wheels
so that the hubs roll smoother and independently (free floating) on the axle.
If it were to carry no load... I might choose to make the suspension's leaf spring's more compliant and articulate more.
But doing that is not a good idea if hauling a load.
As they are... they do not cause much trailer body roll
and the trailer stays upright even when slung around doing donuts.
Tho' not with the quad perched on top of the trailer.
Delivery of Mike's trailer, day 1.
Changing of the axle configuration - SLW hubs.
Change of exterior color(s) and a bunch of other updates as well...
Nearer to the end of this video...
it will demonstrate as to the trailer's stability when slung about.
https://youtu.be/8knaI0NuQI0
^ 60 fps slow mo video action.
so speed up the video to max if wanting to see nearer actual speed.
!! A high traction surface may cause it to roll over more easily.
The actual leaf spring arch is primarily held in form(check) by the bracket spring end(s)/eye mount(s) made by Mike.
If a shackle were added to the leaf springs...
might need to re-arch the leaf springs a tad more
so they will retain an acceptable arch.
But re-arching/tempering spring steel is not the easiest process.
Tho' it can be done if ya have the metallurgy know how.
Remember heat from cutting can change the molecular structure of spring steel.
So avoid excessive heat when cutting to width.
Using a wet (oil bath) saw to cut would minimize the heat during that process.
I'm not so sure a band saw blade would be easy to alter.
And they tend to be more brittle then softer rake tines.
Thanks again Mike ! I think it looks and works swell 8)
And I can attest that those rake tine leaf springs are still utilized and supportive.
I did not add shackle hangers to the rear of the leafs
Because the trailer carries a load regularly...
and too much compression would IMO be counter productive to supporting the current load weight.
I did however change the axle/hub design to SLW type hubs & wheels
so that the hubs roll smoother and independently (free floating) on the axle.
If it were to carry no load... I might choose to make the suspension's leaf spring's more compliant and articulate more.
But doing that is not a good idea if hauling a load.
As they are... they do not cause much trailer body roll
and the trailer stays upright even when slung around doing donuts.
Tho' not with the quad perched on top of the trailer.
Delivery of Mike's trailer, day 1.
Changing of the axle configuration - SLW hubs.
Change of exterior color(s) and a bunch of other updates as well...
Nearer to the end of this video...
it will demonstrate as to the trailer's stability when slung about.
https://youtu.be/8knaI0NuQI0
^ 60 fps slow mo video action.
so speed up the video to max if wanting to see nearer actual speed.
!! A high traction surface may cause it to roll over more easily.
The actual leaf spring arch is primarily held in form(check) by the bracket spring end(s)/eye mount(s) made by Mike.
If a shackle were added to the leaf springs...
might need to re-arch the leaf springs a tad more
so they will retain an acceptable arch.
But re-arching/tempering spring steel is not the easiest process.
Tho' it can be done if ya have the metallurgy know how.
Remember heat from cutting can change the molecular structure of spring steel.
So avoid excessive heat when cutting to width.
Using a wet (oil bath) saw to cut would minimize the heat during that process.
I'm not so sure a band saw blade would be easy to alter.
And they tend to be more brittle then softer rake tines.
Thanks again Mike ! I think it looks and works swell 8)
Got some spare time on father's day and decided to take some video. Didn't realize until night time that i had taken it in portrait mode. 
So i figured i would just put it up anyway because i didn't have enough time to do it again.
https://youtu.be/DmB59TeO1Pw
So i figured i would just put it up anyway because i didn't have enough time to do it again.
https://youtu.be/DmB59TeO1Pw
