What is the best way to attempt to revive dead sub-C NiMh cells? I have a few packs with 4-5 cells reading 1.2+ V, but 1 or 2 at 0.0-0.15V. Is there any way I can bring these back to life? I have let them cycle on my Hyperion charger, but the dead cells remain. I saw some videos on zapping batteries with a welder, but those all seemed to be directed at NiCd cells.:shock:
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(HH) Tech Questions and Customer support thread
- Thread starter JohnRobHolmes
- Start date
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Offroader5
Picky Fab'r/Acetal Junky
ecoli
I wanna be Dave
Got my package last night, thanks John. One quick question for you or anyone else that can answer, I got one of the Hyperion XH balance adapters for my 0606i charger. It didn't come with the cable/cord to plug into the charger. Are they all compatible across all the adapters (i.e., can I just unplug one of my other adapter cables and use it on this one)?
I sure hope so because thats what I have been doing! :lol:
Jeepial
I wanna be Dave
OK John I need to know who I have to shoot to get my hands on two of you 35 turn Torquemasters..:shock:...I was gonna add in there one of your 11 volt lipos but those are in stock all the time(unlike EVERYTHING else I need)and two of your esc'a but they aren't out yet but I would like to know when you will have them in hand as I would rather not buy new fxr's if I don't have to,especially if you will have them SOON....But really my berg is going no where waiting on your electronics and I am at a point where I am gonna have to go another route real soon if I don't get something figured out..But I hate to ruin my addiction for your goody's and go off and buy all tekin gear...:lol:..But pm me or something and let me know whats up on some motors atleast,I can deal with the tekin esc's for now I guess..:roll:
rentstdi
Pebble Pounder
Well I just ordered the 10t cobalt and cant wait for it.
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The 500 is slower and stronger than the 454. The mini slider motor is probably just a faster wind. If it is shorter it will be faster as well.
nimh cells are hard to revive. You may need to try and charge those cells alone if possible. I don't know if zapping them with a welder is a good idea.
How's this comin' John
I sent em out quite a while back actually. Time to send them again!! For some reason the adapter plates get lost in the mail quite often, you are the third person that I sent plates to with no receipt.
Yep, same adapter lead.
My ESCs are still a bit out, but I am getting a run manufactured as we speak. Still gotta run them through beta testing before they go to market.
Take it apart. If it is one of my motors the armature will be stamped with the wind.
Tekin gear is great stuff too "thumbsup" You won't be disappointed.
Sometimes I miss this thread, sorry.
BMFOTP
Quarry Creeper
Lipo Battery Requirements 7T Motor
John,
I have one of your 7T Puller motors. However, your website states that the 7T Puller needs 40 amps continuous for 11.1v, 30 amps continuous for 7.4v lipo battery. I am new to lipo batteries so forgive my question concerning lipo batteries. The lipo batteries on your website range from 7.4v/ 15c - 14.8v/ 25c. None of these batterie seem to fit the need of the 7T Puller motor. The 11.1v/25c battery has the volts but not the constant out put required for the motor. Or am I wrong interpeting the information for batteries?
Which of the lipo batteries on your website would give me the best performance and longest run time with the 7T Puller motor? Or is there a better battery from another company that will give me optimum performance from the 7T Puller motor?
I have a Mamba Max Esc if that helps any with my question.
Walter
John,
I have one of your 7T Puller motors. However, your website states that the 7T Puller needs 40 amps continuous for 11.1v, 30 amps continuous for 7.4v lipo battery. I am new to lipo batteries so forgive my question concerning lipo batteries. The lipo batteries on your website range from 7.4v/ 15c - 14.8v/ 25c. None of these batterie seem to fit the need of the 7T Puller motor. The 11.1v/25c battery has the volts but not the constant out put required for the motor. Or am I wrong interpeting the information for batteries?
Which of the lipo batteries on your website would give me the best performance and longest run time with the 7T Puller motor? Or is there a better battery from another company that will give me optimum performance from the 7T Puller motor?
I have a Mamba Max Esc if that helps any with my question.
Walter
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The 2200 packs I carry are best for 3s use, and the 1300 packs work well for 2s use.
BMFOTP
Quarry Creeper
Clarification
So a 7.4v lipo doesnt have to say 30c to work with a 7T motor? As long as the constant out put is close is good enough to nuse with a motor? ust trying to make sure I understand. Just found the battery info in a sticky and will read that later today if I get time.
Would the 14.8v/ 25c battery harm the 7T Puller motor or a MM Esc? Isnt more better"thumbsup"
So a 7.4v lipo doesnt have to say 30c to work with a 7T motor? As long as the constant out put is close is good enough to nuse with a motor? ust trying to make sure I understand. Just found the battery info in a sticky and will read that later today if I get time.
Would the 14.8v/ 25c battery harm the 7T Puller motor or a MM Esc? Isnt more better"thumbsup"
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The way to figure amps is to multiply the C-rating by the mah rating. So for example, a 2200mah 30C battery will put out 66 amps continous(30x2200=6600mah, or 66 amps). When you raise the voltage(7.4v-11.1V-14.8V) you makes it harder on the packs. So, for example, the 1300 pack in a 2cell(7.4V) would work, where if you went up to a 3cell(11.1V), then it could strain the pack. "thumbsup"
Tanis is right with the figuring. One thing I noticed in your post is 14.8v and 7t puller. At times,a 7t puller can get a little toasty on a 3 cell. I'd imagine even higher voltage would kinda be rough on it. It might take it,but it would shorten it's life span and increase maintenance. Like turning the comm and new brushes. A 7t puller on a 3 cell is really all you need. Even a 10t puller on a 3 cell is plenty of gitty up and go....for most:lol:
Getting a higher constant rating on your packs is best if you run pullers or other hot motors. Getting a good burst rating is as important. The pullers,when you get them bound up,if your drive train will hold,they really pull some amperage. Smaller rated packs won't take it long.
BMFOTP
Quarry Creeper
Thanks for the info on calculating amps, that makes sense when put in those simple terms.
How come an increase in volts strains a pack when there is an increase in cells? Wouldnt each cell produce the same number of volts. 2 cells = 7.4 volts. 3 cells = 11.1 volts.
BMFOTP
Quarry Creeper
Any suggestion on batteries that would provide a higher constant rate and a good burst rate? There are so many batteries it will take me forever to find good batteries to fit the criteria you layed out in your post.
After trying a couple smaller packs and swelling them,John recommended these Poly RC 2200mah packs. I've been beating the crap out of them in all my rigs for a good while and ain't had the first bit of trouble."thumbsup"
Since you're providing the motor with more volts/power, it increases the amp draw the motor can pull, and since a Puller is a beast, it can pull some high amps, especially in a bind, or at startup. The higher the voltage, the quicker you will wear out the motor(brushes, commutator) as well, as Reflector:ror: said.
If you strain lipos, they don't last long, and can puff or even erupt in a ball of flame;-). Ideally, you want to be pulling less than the labeled constant amp rating, for longest life(300+cycles)"thumbsup"
BMFOTP
Quarry Creeper
What cell count are you using in your crawler?
BMFOTP
Quarry Creeper
Thanks for clarifing that info for me. A little tired after my 60hour work week:-(
Berg Build: Does the 7T/10T Pullers fit with no mod?
I saw berg axles at a good price (in my opinion) so finally decided on doing a berg build. I saw your berg thread, and you had two 5T cobalt pullers on it. Did you have to do any modifications to get your pullers to fit, or does it fit fine with no additional modding?
(edit: it looks like you put the links on the outside mount and with bent links angled out?)
I was planning on either stuffing two 7Ts or 10Ts. Not sure which one yet. I want to use a 3S lipo for wheel speed bashing, but i read that the 7T gets really hot on a 3S. I want to do a mix of bashing and crawling, would the 7T just get too hot on a 3S?
As far as ESCs go, I was planning on using your BR-XL (when you have them out...I am in no hurry. This will be a slow build waiting on sale prices on other various parts and chassis). Can your BR-XL handle running two motors, or do I need to run two of them. My other two choices are to run dual FXRs or run a single FXR Pro.
I saw berg axles at a good price (in my opinion) so finally decided on doing a berg build. I saw your berg thread, and you had two 5T cobalt pullers on it. Did you have to do any modifications to get your pullers to fit, or does it fit fine with no additional modding?
(edit: it looks like you put the links on the outside mount and with bent links angled out?)
I was planning on either stuffing two 7Ts or 10Ts. Not sure which one yet. I want to use a 3S lipo for wheel speed bashing, but i read that the 7T gets really hot on a 3S. I want to do a mix of bashing and crawling, would the 7T just get too hot on a 3S?
As far as ESCs go, I was planning on using your BR-XL (when you have them out...I am in no hurry. This will be a slow build waiting on sale prices on other various parts and chassis). Can your BR-XL handle running two motors, or do I need to run two of them. My other two choices are to run dual FXRs or run a single FXR Pro.
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