The problem is that you went to 3s on a drifter:roll:
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hpi sprint 2
- Thread starter c0bra
- Start date
The problem is that you went to 3s on a drifter:roll:
flapjack
Rock Crawler
an idea for farther down the road...my front motor cs sprint2 drifter
right now the sprint is a roller. the aluminum upgrades are in, just need to pick them up.
i put the stock electronics in it and ran it with that a few times, but then the Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear side of me came in..... POWER!!! and SPEEEEED!!!
so once i put on the aluminum upgrades on the car its getting the 4700kv back with the x-patterns, and a new servo!
i put the stock electronics in it and ran it with that a few times, but then the Jeremy Clarkson from Top Gear side of me came in..... POWER!!! and SPEEEEED!!!
so once i put on the aluminum upgrades on the car its getting the 4700kv back with the x-patterns, and a new servo!
parts are in! just picked them up from my friends house. all parts are gpm racing products, and came from hong kong.
parts are all alloy and include:
motor mount (2 pieces)
front c hubs (1 pair)
front and rear a arms (1 pair each)
hexes (1 pack of 4)
steering assembly set
battery strap and sub c linkage (1 pair)
rear and rear knuckles (1 pair each)
main and sub chassis mount
everything is purple. honestly not the color i wouldve wanted but with the purple parts on the chassis it should look good
will post pics of the chassis after everything thing is on. i also got spare wheel axles, and a spare rear belt
parts are all alloy and include:
motor mount (2 pieces)
front c hubs (1 pair)
front and rear a arms (1 pair each)
hexes (1 pack of 4)
steering assembly set
battery strap and sub c linkage (1 pair)
rear and rear knuckles (1 pair each)
main and sub chassis mount
everything is purple. honestly not the color i wouldve wanted but with the purple parts on the chassis it should look good
will post pics of the chassis after everything thing is on. i also got spare wheel axles, and a spare rear belt
got the rest of the alloy upgrades on the car. im going to try and get a better set of alloy a arms front and rear, and more shock mounting screw, as 2 of them broke in half while attaching them to the front a arm :evil:
also going to try and get the carbon fibre chassis here in a few weeks
also going to try and get the carbon fibre chassis here in a few weeks
Big Mike
I wanna be Dave
Noooooooooooooooooo!! Please don't do that. (remember- when you cheat, you're really only cheating yourself) Learn to drive, you'll thank yourself down the road. Practice, practice, practice is key in drifting (and modding in as much steering angle as your front drivelines permit doesn't hurt)
Spend that 75 bucks on something useful. Good tires. Pulleys. Different wheels.
In stock form it will be 50/50 (or in other words, front and rear wheels spin at the same speed) so it will drift very predictably. Already having a front one-way is to your advantage, locking the rear differential is a must-do for a drift chassis.
If your chassis permits (I can't remember how well equipped the Sprints are) subtracting some camber and toeing out the front wheels a bit will help also.
As you get better and develop some throttle control, swap out the pulleys to either overdrive the rear or underdrive the front (front wheels spin slower than rear wheels) for more challenge and realism.
Be careful, this drifting stuff can be very addictive...
dont worry i never picked it up. ive mainly ran the car in the street with the x-patterns. ive taken it out a few times, and wow even if you have no rc drift experience, it can make you look like a pro!
with the set up im more going for a strong FAST car. thats why i got all of the aluminum upgrade parts, however the chinese a arms broke my shock mounts! so now i need new a arms and ball studs. i could use the stock plastic ones but id rather get aluminum for the added piece of mind of having a metal a arm. i want to get the carbon fiber chassis because carbon fiber is lighter and stronger than steel! thus it should be much stronger than the stock chassis. which the top plate broke in half!
i got the shock problem solved for now. there were still the ballstuds that were still in the upper mount hole. i tried to to find ballstuds in the extra parts bin, but i couldnt find any. after looking at the rod ends on the shocks and noticed that they were similar to axials.
so i decided to put the axial rod ends on it
i took off the pos chinese a arms and replaced them with the stock ones
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.709235,-75.227205
so i decided to put the axial rod ends on it
i took off the pos chinese a arms and replaced them with the stock ones
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.709235,-75.227205
the stock servo took a dump on me and decided to stop working. since i got a hitec hs-625 servo in a trade ill use that.
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.709243,-75.227225
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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=40.709243,-75.227225
update!
well i sold the last sprint 2 i had several months ago, after putting $100 in chinese alluminum suspension parts, just to end up not being able to use the a arms. i took the car out and somehing broke on it, i dont remember what it was. i fixed it and ended up selling it as a roller.
so fast forward till about a month and a half ago, were i got the desire to get an on road car to mess around with. so i picked up a tt01 and a tt01e. they may be good starter cars, but thats it. they have NO tunning at all from tamiya, which i didnt like. so i decided to get something newer that can be tuned!
so i spent a week and a half looking for something along the lines of a sprint 2, associated tc5, or an xray t3, or other versions of these. after looking threw 3 forums i found a reasonable deal for a sprint 2! the sprint 2 was owned by somebody who lives about 2 hours away and raced at the lhs several years ago!
now onto the car. from what i understand it started out as a plain and boring brushed rtr. all i know thats been done to is is a front motor conversion and a 1.8 countersteer, and it included the original pulleys and diff to convert it back! i most likely will be converting it back to rear motor and turning it into a parking lot terror!
right now the plans are to get it here first, obviously. then get the hpi graphite chassis and top plate or get the exotek chassis. next would be either a 911 gt3 rs, or subaru body. then some sort of tekin motor and esc that can handle a 2s lipo.
i have 2 questions for you guys. would you recommend the hpi graphite chassis or the exotek chassis? and which tekin motor and esc?
pics from seller
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
well i sold the last sprint 2 i had several months ago, after putting $100 in chinese alluminum suspension parts, just to end up not being able to use the a arms. i took the car out and somehing broke on it, i dont remember what it was. i fixed it and ended up selling it as a roller.
so fast forward till about a month and a half ago, were i got the desire to get an on road car to mess around with. so i picked up a tt01 and a tt01e. they may be good starter cars, but thats it. they have NO tunning at all from tamiya, which i didnt like. so i decided to get something newer that can be tuned!
so i spent a week and a half looking for something along the lines of a sprint 2, associated tc5, or an xray t3, or other versions of these. after looking threw 3 forums i found a reasonable deal for a sprint 2! the sprint 2 was owned by somebody who lives about 2 hours away and raced at the lhs several years ago!
now onto the car. from what i understand it started out as a plain and boring brushed rtr. all i know thats been done to is is a front motor conversion and a 1.8 countersteer, and it included the original pulleys and diff to convert it back! i most likely will be converting it back to rear motor and turning it into a parking lot terror!
right now the plans are to get it here first, obviously. then get the hpi graphite chassis and top plate or get the exotek chassis. next would be either a 911 gt3 rs, or subaru body. then some sort of tekin motor and esc that can handle a 2s lipo.
i have 2 questions for you guys. would you recommend the hpi graphite chassis or the exotek chassis? and which tekin motor and esc?
pics from seller
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Gambolified
Rock Stacker
You should do the bulkhead mod.
is that the one that you cut the hole in it?
im planning on doing some mods to it that i found on rctech after it gets here and i convert it back to stock.
Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk
Last edited:
Gambolified
Rock Stacker
Yeah. You cut the front and rear bulkhead so that rocks and debris don't get stuck and ruin your belts. As for chassis...sorry I haven't used either.
ok. i did that to the first one i had, which is why i started this thread. that sprint 2 i sold several months ago. now that i decided to get a new one, i plan on doing it that mod to it as well. the sprint 2 came in today, i will be picking it up tomorrow.
if i dont finish the tt01e rebuild tonight, i will finish it tomorrow and hopefully be able to work on converting the sprint 2 back to rear motor.
im lookkng for a 200mm body that includes some sort of light buckets. i found an hpi ford gt body at the lhs that fits what i want. it says to use 3mm offset wheels for 190mm chassis, so i guess that means to use 0mm offset wheels on a 200mm chassis.
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Gambolified
Rock Stacker
Depends on the body. I've seen guys run as much as 9 on the rear. Most if I'm not mistaken run 3 on the front and 6 in the back for the staggered look.
thats what the mustang body that i had used.
the gt body would be good for this. i plan on putting in a brushless tekin rs and a tekin redline gen 2 motor. im shooting for a stupid fast sprint 2 thats not to much of a pain to drive at slow speeds. with the gt body having a rear wing it should help with the stability at all speeds and the body should be aerodynamic also.
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Gambolified
Rock Stacker
Itll be a beast. Lol.
