-
Welcome to RCCrawler Forums.
It looks like you're enjoying RCCrawler's Forums but haven't created an account yet. Why not take a minute to register for your own free account now? As a member you get free access to all of our forums and posts plus the ability to post your own messages, communicate directly with other members, and much more. Register now!
Already a member? Login at the top of this page to stop seeing this message.
Ittybitty's BJV4 XR10
- Thread starter ittybitty
- Start date
Well then I'm glad I found them when I did...I really wanted to pick up everything he had but I just didn't have a good reason to do that. He had some nice motors and parts!
GaBronco
Rock Crawler
How'd the comp go?
Jeepkid
I wanna be Dave
How dose the rig perform with no electronics on the chassis?
The comp at Granny Gear went pretty well over all. I started off by breaking the final drive gears as soon as I progressed gate 1 on course 1. I DNF'd that course and replaced the gears before attempting course 2. At gate 6 of 7 on course 2 I started hearing some more cracking going on but I was able to limp through gate 7. I tore it down again to find out that the smaller drive gear was missing half of several of the teeth. Once again I replaced it and was able to finish two more courses and the finals and come out with 4th place.
I'm not sure I can completely attribute the performance I had yesterday to the electronics being moved out of the chassis but when it was breaking down it really did work well for me. I will know more about this after the comp coming up this weekend. It will be on a manmade 1:1 crawler course that has gobs of traction and will most likely incorporate some good sidehilling and climbs/descents.
Jeepkid
I wanna be Dave
With the wieght of the electronics on the axle do you not need as much wieght in your wheels. I guess I am asking if you had to tune your front wieght bias, because of moving the electroninc forward.
Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd ask this here...
Is anyone else having trouble keeping the slop out of the front wheels? I'm not talking about the axle shaft sliding in and out of the housing...I know that can be shimmed or that the new gears that are coming out should fix that. The slop that I am constantly battling is in the bearings in the knuckles. I'm running VP knuckles of course and no matter what I end up with quite a bit of slop after a comp or a day of practice. I started with the stock bearings then moved to Avid Revolutions. The Avid bearings lasted longer. I recently searched around and found bronze bushings in the correct sizes to replace the bearings with. I replaced the larger 10x15x4's with the bushings for the diff in the Baja 5b and the 5x11x4 bushings came from a CEN racing buggy. Upon first installation they really take up all of the slop and don't cause any binding. They have been lasting me 3 comps or 2 good practice days before they develop slop.
What's working the best for you?
Is anyone else having trouble keeping the slop out of the front wheels? I'm not talking about the axle shaft sliding in and out of the housing...I know that can be shimmed or that the new gears that are coming out should fix that. The slop that I am constantly battling is in the bearings in the knuckles. I'm running VP knuckles of course and no matter what I end up with quite a bit of slop after a comp or a day of practice. I started with the stock bearings then moved to Avid Revolutions. The Avid bearings lasted longer. I recently searched around and found bronze bushings in the correct sizes to replace the bearings with. I replaced the larger 10x15x4's with the bushings for the diff in the Baja 5b and the 5x11x4 bushings came from a CEN racing buggy. Upon first installation they really take up all of the slop and don't cause any binding. They have been lasting me 3 comps or 2 good practice days before they develop slop.
What's working the best for you?
Jeepkid
I wanna be Dave
Have you noticed any kind of extra drag from the bushings being added? Didnt know if adding a couple bushings in the mix would make it less smooth.
PipeDreams
RCC Addict
My vp kknuckles for my ax-10 don't hold the bearing very tight either. Is that what you mean? Maybe it's a vp thing?
The movement I'm talking about is like this...
When I grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle it I can watch the stub shaft (outer portion of the axle shaft) that passes through the two bearings wiggle separate from the inner shaft.
As far as drag caused by the bushings versus the bearings...the only way I really have to describe this is that I removed the tranny before removing the bearings and installing the bushings and rotated the wheels and then compared that to rotating them after installing the bushings. I couldn't feel any difference. I also paid attention to any difference I might have seen while driving it. I didn't experience any clod stall in the front like I thought I might. Everything seems to run just as smooth. The only other thing I was wondering about was whether the bushings would cause any extra noise being metal on metal and exposed to the elements. Surprisingly there wasn't any noise...no squeaking or anything.
When I grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle it I can watch the stub shaft (outer portion of the axle shaft) that passes through the two bearings wiggle separate from the inner shaft.
As far as drag caused by the bushings versus the bearings...the only way I really have to describe this is that I removed the tranny before removing the bearings and installing the bushings and rotated the wheels and then compared that to rotating them after installing the bushings. I couldn't feel any difference. I also paid attention to any difference I might have seen while driving it. I didn't experience any clod stall in the front like I thought I might. Everything seems to run just as smooth. The only other thing I was wondering about was whether the bushings would cause any extra noise being metal on metal and exposed to the elements. Surprisingly there wasn't any noise...no squeaking or anything.
Last edited:
The bearings aren't moving in the knuckles. The 5x11x4 bearing will slide in and out but it isn't allowing the shaft to wobble. The majority of the movement is coming from the 10x15x4 bearing. I wonder if the axle shafts being worn too much would prematurely wear out the knuckle bearings and cause this wobble to occur a lot sooner?
Harvo
I wanna be Dave
Yes. I have noticed this from the first week I ran the truck. Once the slop appeared, it never seemed to get any worse though. So I just ran with it. I have yet to replace any of those bearings.
My Berg is the same way. Eventually the bearings wear out, but the slop seems to always show up very shortly after you install the new bearings.
My Berg is the same way. Eventually the bearings wear out, but the slop seems to always show up very shortly after you install the new bearings.
M_ENERGY
Rock Crawler
I know exactly what your talking about because I went with some Traxxas bearings, but I know from previous experience the more weight you run on the front will cause it to get even more sloppier than those with less weight. I don't know how much weight you are running but once I went with less weight that was one of the first things I noticed as far as wear. My bearings lasted a lot longer. hope that helps "thumbsup""thumbsup"
Ok so in my struggle to figure out how to get rid of the slop in the knuckles (just one of those things I can't stand) I replaced the kingpin bushings with stock replacements, installed brand new Avid rubber seals inside and out and even installed a new front housing while I was at it. I went with the rubber seals this time to see if I could feel any difference between them and the revolutions, which I have another set of for later.
I was checking clearances and such last night when I noticed my DH2's were rubbing the steering knuckles!!!!! Under power at slow speed on a vinyl floor I could see the front tires hesitating every so often like there was something binding up so I picked up and looked closer...that's when I saw what was happening. The slop that still exists in the bearings and knuckle assembly even with NEW parts throughout was allowing the wheel to wobble enough that the tips of the inside of the DH2's were catching the edges of the knuckles. The right side was even catching on the steering arm! Here's a pic of the "tips" that I'm referring to...
I am running the 460 hubs as required for the DH2's and the XR.
Is anyone else having this issue?
I was checking clearances and such last night when I noticed my DH2's were rubbing the steering knuckles!!!!! Under power at slow speed on a vinyl floor I could see the front tires hesitating every so often like there was something binding up so I picked up and looked closer...that's when I saw what was happening. The slop that still exists in the bearings and knuckle assembly even with NEW parts throughout was allowing the wheel to wobble enough that the tips of the inside of the DH2's were catching the edges of the knuckles. The right side was even catching on the steering arm! Here's a pic of the "tips" that I'm referring to...
I am running the 460 hubs as required for the DH2's and the XR.
Is anyone else having this issue?
Last edited:
cascade crawler
Quarry Creeper
i just checked my set up out and i have the play your talking about but mine do not seem to rub the knuckle? i was thinking (bear with me here:lmao
and i no i have killed a couple hubs from running with loose wheel nuts, thats when i learned to start checking them before every run. have you checked out the hub itself to see if there are any thing going on in there? just a thought?
and i no i have killed a couple hubs from running with loose wheel nuts, thats when i learned to start checking them before every run. have you checked out the hub itself to see if there are any thing going on in there? just a thought?Yes, There was someone who posted in my build thread a while back with the exact same issue. He also posted some pics detailing theproblem he had and the possible root cause. His issue was the axle shafts of rather the drive pin placement. He had broken a axle shaft and when he had gotten a replacement, its pin hole was off. Therefore causing his wheels to rub the exact same way. Check there first. Post 97"thumbsup"
Last edited:
I remember that post about the pin hole being off, but they were rubbing with the stock shafts in and I actually just replaced them with a new pair...I forgot to mention that. I had picked up an extra set just in case a while back and since everything else was going to be new I went ahead and threw them in at the same time. There's plenty of room between the wheel and the knuckle where the hub is, but the play or slop that exists allows the wheel to move enough that it contacts the knuckle...on both sides...its not just one wheel that's hitting.
