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Jato The Mudboss - Dirt Oval Racing
- Thread starter JatoTheRipper
- Start date
I received and installed the aluminum bellcrank. Of course I forgot to take photos of that. Still to come.
I did find one issue. The aluminum steering knuckle, or steering block as Traxxas calls it, is hitting the A-arm. I was going to remove some material from the A-arm, but I didn't want to weaken it. I found that under its own weight the knuckle lifts up just enough to clear the A-arm. This is even with a Teflon washer installed at the top. So I'm going to leave this as-is unless I run into binding or other issues.
This Slash is about the fifth Traxxas that I've owned, but it's the first 1/10th scale electric Traxxas that I've owned. With every Traxxas I buy I am reminded that they have a quality level well above the bashing competition. They get a bad rap by the haters and that's something I don't understand and I find it laughable. Are they old designs? Yes. Do they have weak spots? Yes, but what basher doesn't? But the quality of the plastics is good, things fit together like they should, they have probably the best plastic shocks in all of RC, and when you get a Traxxas the attention to detail is unmatched. The manual is good and all of the tags, while funny for an RC veteran, explain everything for a first-time RCer. Good stuff in my opinion.
I did find one issue. The aluminum steering knuckle, or steering block as Traxxas calls it, is hitting the A-arm. I was going to remove some material from the A-arm, but I didn't want to weaken it. I found that under its own weight the knuckle lifts up just enough to clear the A-arm. This is even with a Teflon washer installed at the top. So I'm going to leave this as-is unless I run into binding or other issues.
This Slash is about the fifth Traxxas that I've owned, but it's the first 1/10th scale electric Traxxas that I've owned. With every Traxxas I buy I am reminded that they have a quality level well above the bashing competition. They get a bad rap by the haters and that's something I don't understand and I find it laughable. Are they old designs? Yes. Do they have weak spots? Yes, but what basher doesn't? But the quality of the plastics is good, things fit together like they should, they have probably the best plastic shocks in all of RC, and when you get a Traxxas the attention to detail is unmatched. The manual is good and all of the tags, while funny for an RC veteran, explain everything for a first-time RCer. Good stuff in my opinion.
Get in a not-hating-typing mood and share the knowledge...spread the wealth! "thumbsup"
look up a techno build instructions from their build books. the way they explain it makes it easy to do. I had all four shocks done in 15 minutes or less. which equals to half a beer for me. there are three ways you can build a shock.
hope this helps jato.
hope this helps jato.
I looked at two of Tekno's manuals and the instruct you do drill a bleeder hole in the cap. Not going to happen with aluminum shock caps. Are those the instructions you were referring to?
that's for an emulsion setup. now i'm beginning to wonder if I built all of my TLR 22 shocks wrong...
the traxxas shock caps (aluminum ones) don't have a hole on the side of the cap? if so.. they need to put them on em! shocks don't work well with air in them. and not having a bleeder hole on the side contributes to the problem.
IMHO I would just use the stock plastic caps and drill small holes in the sides to bleed out the extra shock oil when tightening the caps down. you don't plan on jumping it do you? :ror:
You have thoroughly confused me. Emulsion shocks, by design, have air in the oil.
I was rebuilding my stock Big Bore shocks last night. During the reassembly I used the aluminum shock caps. At least two of the bladders got torn in the process. I don't understand. I've never had this happen before. Any suggestions or tips for building these shocks?
Also, does Traxxas sell just the replacement bladders?
Also, does Traxxas sell just the replacement bladders?
You can get a shock rebuild kit...put the bladders in the shock cap before you put it on...ive done it enough to eyeball the correct amount of shock fluid...use ur fingertip to remove a little excess fluid so that the bladder still has room to function.
Sent from my LGAS375 using Tapatalk
I did see the rebuild kits. I don't need all that and I might have found a bladder only part number. I'm going to check my LHS today.
I did put the bladders in the aluminum shock caps before screwing them on so I'm not sure what that problem was that caused them to get cut or torn.
I don't think so. I didn't yank on it because I didn't want to strip the plastic threads.
I got the final proof for my custom Mudboss body. I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out. I can't wait to receive it!
I'm not a fan of wheel dot stickers. I think they look cheap. I still wanted the wheel insert look of full-size dirt oval cars so I modeled some up in SolidWorks and had them printed by Shapeways. These snap onto the stock Traxxas Raptor wheels. I left a center access hole for the nut driver for ease of use. I didn't want to have to remove, and possibly break, the wheel covers anytime I wanted to get to the wheel nut. I love how they turned out.
It's a secret! I could tell you, but then things would get messy. :lmao:
It's a simple design. Here's the render from Shapeways.
I wasn't asking for a picture of your plug jato :shock:
:ror: looks like a easy design. I might make a few for some de rims.
I don't know why I haven't jumped on the shapeways store bandwagon yet. I could make a few hundred from one 20 minute design...
:ror: looks like a easy design. I might make a few for some de rims.
I don't know why I haven't jumped on the shapeways store bandwagon yet. I could make a few hundred from one 20 minute design...
OSRC
I wanna be Dave
Noob. Putting the bladder in the cap first leaves you no way of verifying that the shock is full of oil.
- Fill the shock with oil, with the shock shaft about 3/4 of the way out...leave about 2mm space from the top (ish).
- Put the bladder on. Some oil should ooze over onto the threads. If the oil does not ooze out, you did not fill it full enough.
- Mop it up said oil with a finger, and liberally smear it on top of and on the sides of the bladder.
- Screw the top on.
- Wipe off remaining oil.
The bladders are tearing because they are getting too much friction as you screw the cap on. A little oil "lubes" it enough so it won't tear.
