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Kaetwo's Tekin FX-R Review...

Tekin is without a doubt one of the best in the industry when it comes to customer service and support.

On a side note, our factory Reign RC Driver Just Zach won 2.2 Nats with a Tekin FX-R "thumbsup"

8)

Holy crap !!!!! I knew there was a reason I am constantly looking at his build thread. Congrats To Just Zach, the Reign factory crew, and Tekin"thumbsup"
 
HOTWIRE help please

Ok, Kaetwo or someone I need some help with the "hotwire" set up. I read all 10 pages but i didnt see if you have done a review on the hotwire yet, so if I missed it im sorry.

Heres the set up:

FX-R (not pro)
HH7TP w/3C 1345mah, cc BEC set
5955TG w/ Micro Spectrum r/x
LE M8 t/x
Axial Tranny, slipper, 14/87T gearing.


* My rig is pretty heavy. Im over a lb in each front wheel w/ some poulsons. Throw in the Steel gears,Steel driveshafts,heavy puller and I see my self running more than 2.8-3 on my DB.

Anyways, hope the above helped a little, for some basic info. What im in need of is some setups for the hotwire. i.e what are people having good luck with on there;

- DB
- Rev Strength
- Current Limit
- Push Control
- Rev Type
- Vol Cutoff.

Im set at:

- DB 40
- Rev Strength 100
- Current Limit off
- Push Control 1
- Rev Type F/R
- Vol Cutoff. 3

Now.. Im prolly ALLLL messed up with my current setting lol, but this is why im here for some help. I got a comp Sat and the "hotwire" software just got back instock at the shop so any help would be REALLY helpfull. Theres no Team driver set ups online either.

Hope I can get some input on what changes I should look into changing. I know it will also depend on Driver driving style and setup but Im down to no time to to fully test all the settings. Im a pretty aggressive driver, if that helps any aswell.

thx again.

Rocky
 
I don't know but I'm looking into getting this same ESC(w/ 55t handwound) and would like at least hear how to help you as it may help me later.
 
Hey Rocky, your settings are right on, and other than choosing the battery cutoff, the drag brake is really the the main adjustable one. You can get that thing adjusted perfectly for your style. Fast roll, slow roll, no roll, sushi california roll. Sweet.
 
hmmm well I set my DB to 50% since its pretty heavy. I did not add any push control, So there wont be any anti-drag. I keep trying to set the current limit to its highest setting but it keeps setting itself to "off" everytime I do it. I still dont understand....

So I assume, the # 1-10 inputing them manual for the DB is like the 1-100 on the hotwire. So a #3 would be a 30 on the hotwire? Hmm. And I assume the setting for the "Voltage Cutoff" is in Lipo cell count? so "off" would be no cut off and 2 or 3 would be the Cells your running... SO a #3 would be a 3C... lol I can just see this thing get launched off a cliff :roll:.

I did MAX for REV Stregth and no delay for the reverse.

im jumping all over the place here....

Kaetwo said 3 is great for his rig. 2.8 is perfect. So im assuming that #28 for the DB. BUT he also said his 2.2 was pretty light so im going to 50... Im still really confused on the current limit and the push control. I read the little tabs but it still doesnt make any sense. eh... How about I send this $50 software/unit to someone and they can do a review.;-)

Im prolly gonna figure this all out soon and jus edit/delete this post. :roll:
 
I use only 4 settings on the ESC as there really the only things that apply to us crawlers.

Voltage Cutoff
Drag Brake
Reverse Mode
Reverse Strength

Voltage Cutoff - applies to the Lipo or Non-Lipo battery that your using. I personally use a 3 for a 3S lipo setting.

Drag Brake - varies greatly. Motor, rig weight, tires, terrain, outside temp, rock temp, etc....all effect drag brake. Here is what I've found. When I go to a comp I test the rock with the rig setup I'll be using for the day. If it's colder outside the traction changes a lot so drag brake needs to be modified. What I like is when the rig moves slowly under it own weight on a steep incline. How steep depends on the courses. I don't use my drag brake to stop the rig but to control the decent, so tire traction changes this from comp to comp. In Moab for example I used a 28 with my berg when I usually have it set to 31. This was due to the lack of traction from the rocks sluffing and it cooling down.

Reverse Mode - I use instant reverse, however you need to be careful with this. If your heading downhill and you need to reverse you can easily flip yourself. Or say for example your on the flats and your about to hit a gate so your hit reverse only to backup into another gate. This leads me into Reverse Strength.

Reverse Strength - I have this set to 65%. So that when I mash the reverse I don't shoot off at mach 1. This setting depends on the motor wind your using. For example I use 35x1 hopped up so I don't have my reverse strength set too high.

Other settings that you see in to the Hot Wire may not be settable on the FX-R. Some settings are for the FX-R and therefor zero out if you try to use them.

On the Hot Wire you are exactly correct when you say the values are set from 1-100 where as the values in the field are set to 1-10.

I need to get a Hot Wire review put together and will work on this over the weekend ;-) I will say this, for those of your who love your FX-R as is using the field settings.....Your only using a fraction of it's potential. The Hot Wire opens up a ton of more fine tunning and I can't imagine using a Tekin ESC without the Hot Wire. Having the ability to fine tune like this is so important and I use one at every comp. "thumbsup"

I hope this helps.

8)
 
WOW, that was perfect. I was up till 4 am messin gwith this thing and its great! Theres SOO much you can do! I was expecting a hard set up but I just figured out on my own. I understand the elements I just was a little confused on the differences beteween inputing the setting manually and on hotwire. I read this now and it all makes sense. The 1-10 and 1-100 make sense now. All in 10 increments, hence you being able to really fine tune it. This HOTWIRE software is the best thing Tekin has come out with along with this ESC. It really helps you dial in your rig. Everyone doesnt know what there missing. Thank You for the much needed info. Looking forward to that review!

Rocky

AKRCC


* Did you notice a big difference going from 28 to 31 on your berg? Im assuming the berg was a lot heavier aswell.
 
Last edited:
WOW, that was perfect.

He's good isn't he? That's why I keep him around. "thumbsup"

The Hotwire will also allow you to get updates and revisions, but that's another story for another time. ;-)
 
* Did you notice a big difference going from 28 to 31 on your berg? Im assuming the berg was a lot heavier aswell.

Thanks!

I did notice a difference. It was the difference from the rig rolling consistantly downhill with no tire lock and having a tire lock now and again.

The main reason for me changing this setting was that in Moab the rock is sandy and my rig had been beefed up a tad in added weight.

8)

He's good isn't he? That's why I keep him around. "thumbsup"

The Hotwire will also allow you to get updates and revisions, but that's another story for another time. ;-)

LOL!!!!!

I'm a keeper "thumbsup"
 
I use only 4 settings on the ESC as there really the only things that apply to us crawlers.

Voltage Cutoff
Drag Brake
Reverse Mode
Reverse Strength

Voltage Cutoff - applies to the Lipo or Non-Lipo battery that your using. I personally use a 3 for a 3S lipo setting.

Drag Brake - varies greatly. Motor, rig weight, tires, terrain, outside temp, rock temp, etc....all effect drag brake. Here is what I've found. When I go to a comp I test the rock with the rig setup I'll be using for the day. If it's colder outside the traction changes a lot so drag brake needs to be modified. What I like is when the rig moves slowly under it own weight on a steep incline. How steep depends on the courses. I don't use my drag brake to stop the rig but to control the decent, so tire traction changes this from comp to comp. In Moab for example I used a 28 with my berg when I usually have it set to 31. This was due to the lack of traction from the rocks sluffing and it cooling down.

Reverse Mode - I use instant reverse, however you need to be careful with this. If your heading downhill and you need to reverse you can easily flip yourself. Or say for example your on the flats and your about to hit a gate so your hit reverse only to backup into another gate. This leads me into Reverse Strength.

Reverse Strength - I have this set to 65%. So that when I mash the reverse I don't shoot off at mach 1. This setting depends on the motor wind your using. For example I use 35x1 hopped up so I don't have my reverse strength set too high.

Other settings that you see in to the Hot Wire may not be settable on the FX-R. Some settings are for the FX-R and therefor zero out if you try to use them.

On the Hot Wire you are exactly correct when you say the values are set from 1-100 where as the values in the field are set to 1-10.

I need to get a Hot Wire review put together and will work on this over the weekend ;-) I will say this, for those of your who love your FX-R as is using the field settings.....Your only using a fraction of it's potential. The Hot Wire opens up a ton of more fine tunning and I can't imagine using a Tekin ESC without the Hot Wire. Having the ability to fine tune like this is so important and I use one at every comp. "thumbsup"

I hope this helps.

8)

Very well said and clearly put...this thread has been tremendously helpful.

I was debating over picking up a Hot Wire, but after running my FX-R for a few weeks now and loving it, I believe I'll be ordering one. This ESC is just outstanding and after reading your first hand experience with the interface, it only adds to it's status. I look forward to your full blown review thread of the HW. Thanks "thumbsup"
 
Love this little esc but at this weekends comp running a 3 cell lipo for the first time, my FXR pro thermaled in the first minuted of the first course. It's in my outlaw class tuber which is a class we have that allows rear steer. I'm running 2 hitec 5645MG's and just steering both servo at the same time not moving the truck, over heats the esc in less then a minute. I'm not givivg up on this esc as I was running a mamba before and like the FXR better, so I guess I need to get a cc bec.
 
Love this little esc but at this weekends comp running a 3 cell lipo for the first time, my FXR pro thermaled in the first minuted of the first course. It's in my outlaw class tuber which is a class we have that allows rear steer. I'm running 2 hitec 5645MG's and just steering both servo at the same time not moving the truck, over heats the esc in less then a minute. I'm not givivg up on this esc as I was running a mamba before and like the FXR better, so I guess I need to get a cc bec.

I had the same problem with mine, but when I put the cc bec in, no more thermal shut downs."thumbsup"
 
Your absolutly correct. They need an external BEC especially if your running two servos. You just can't pack that powerfull of enough BEC in such a tiny package ;-)

8)
 
Tekin's customer support is amazing and their products are second to none. There is no way I would run anything else in my crawler

If anyone is wondering if the Hotwire is worth it, believe me it is! I think its an invaluable tool in fine tuning your crawler. Its surprizing what a difference 1-2% change on the drag brake will make and as Kaetwo noted if you change the weight of your crawler you will probably want to adjust it for the perfect setting.

As a side note I am running 34 on my berg right now but even different motors have required different settings.

Oh yeah, and a Losi Mini Crawler with a FX-R in it and stock motor is just about right at 40, although I might bump it up 1-2 more.
 
Thanks guys, and like I said its a great esc and I wouldn't think to run anything else. I'm running 3 of them in my crawlers, the pro in the outlaw, FXR's in my 2.2 and my mini losi crawler.
 
Has anyone noticed a big diffence in the FX-R and the pro version? I know is mainly ohms res but is it noticable...

I was thinking of running duel FX-Rs (maybe Pros) in my super w/ 8711s and HH10TPs.
 
To be honest I've never used the Pro version. I never saw the need for one in a crawler. However it would be a solid product for sure.

I would save the money and buy two FX-R's and then snag a Hot Link if you don't have one already "thumbusp"

8)
 
Wow, I literally just got my brand-new Novak Rooster Crawler Edition ESC & 55T Motor Combo in the mail about 8 hours ago, and thanks to kaetwo I am thinking about ditching it in favor of a Tekin FX-R & 55T Crawler Motor Combo! I have carefully read every post in this thread, and am about 80% sure I am going to make the switch, I just want to get some time on Novak combo to make sure...thanks everyone!
 
Wow, I literally just got my brand-new Novak Rooster Crawler Edition ESC & 55T Motor Combo in the mail about 8 hours ago, and thanks to kaetwo I am thinking about ditching it in favor of a Tekin FX-R & 55T Crawler Motor Combo! I have carefully read every post in this thread, and am about 80% sure I am going to make the switch, I just want to get some time on Novak combo to make sure...thanks everyone!


There is no comparison. The Rooster Crawler is a bare minimum for a comp. crawler IMO. The FXR is superior in every way x10, and the price just makes the deal that much sweeter. Don't open that rooster. You will get the urge to try 3 cells. The Rooster has zero adjustments, if you or your rig are not dialed to it then you are not going to be driving your best.
I ran Rooster for a long time, like I said you might as well be comparing a Yugo to an Audi.
 
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