Kurtus420 creeper/ax10 hybrid Frogger build

[kurtus]

Yes, I am aware of this....I am merely stating what works for me. I tend to run stiffer rear springs for uphill climbs. When going uphill, the weight is all on the back on the rig, and the suspension acts differently. I prefer to keep a stronger rear, and let the front move as it needs to. This setup tends to work good for my driving style.

Also, keep in mind, this chassis is designed around a 3.5" front shock, and a 4" rear. Now, if you try to match the strengths of the springs, you will find the front more stiff. I compensate by stepping up the spring rate in the rear. I have built 5 of these rigs with this chassis now, and that is just what seems to work with my testing.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program.

Casey

What is your spring setup Casey?

 

[KC_JoNeS]

I like to run a large bore shock with a full spring in the rear. You can see my builds, and I have used the Losi comp shocks for the rear at full length. Then, I like to use the 2661 Traxxas shocks (no cap mod) on the front. The front springs are the Losi Mini-T springs 1119 green or blue. (I am not a fan of super soft suspension) The rear springs are the Losi whites that come with the LCC shocks. But, if you check my Red rig, I use the Traxxas big bore 4" shocks, and their spring is even stiffer. (the red ones)

I am not saying this is the way to do it. I am only saying that this is the way I have found works best for the way I crawl. I am a bit of a sputter crawler. I like to hop from spot to spot...as opposed to wiggle and jiggle.

 

[kurtus]

I like to run a large bore shock with a full spring in the rear. You can see my builds, and I have used the Losi comp shocks for the rear at full length. Then, I like to use the 2661 Traxxas shocks (no cap mod) on the front. The front springs are the Losi Mini-T springs 1119 green or blue. (I am not a fan of super soft suspension) The rear springs are the Losi whites that come with the LCC shocks. But, if you check my Red rig, I use the Traxxas big bore 4" shocks, and their spring is even stiffer. (the red ones)

I am not saying this is the way to do it. I am only saying that this is the way I have found works best for the way I crawl. I am a bit of a sputter crawler. I like to hop from spot to spot...as opposed to wiggle and jiggle.

I'm gonna do this then, or something similar to it. I used to run much heavier rate springs on the setup I had before on this and tt was basically non existant so I will try something new. I think the rear link setup is going to help alot when the link plate shows(same as pictured back a page). The esc where it is sitting is causing me some issues the the sv2 has gotta go and I'm gonna look for some new front shocks and fxr when the funds allow for it. I am a little confused though because I thought the Traxxas 2660 was 3 1/2" the 2661 is 3 3/4" and the 2662 is 4", is that wrong? Thx man"thumbsup"

 

[KC_JoNeS]

Well, I started both rigs with the 2660 shocks up front, and combined them with a longer rod end. but, recently, I stole those to use on my XR10, so I switched the Poison Dart fronts to 2661 shocks with standard rod ends. They seem to be almost perfect, but could be limited by 5mm or so to make them perfect.

Casey

 

[kurtus]

Well, I started both rigs with the 2660 shocks up front, and combined them with a longer rod end. but, recently, I stole those to use on my XR10, so I switched the Poison Dart fronts to 2661 shocks with standard rod ends. They seem to be almost perfect, but could be limited by 5mm or so to make them perfect.

Casey

Do you think the 2660 with the shock cap mod 3mm threaded and possibly limited 5mm to make them a bit longer with the front(shorter) hard or medium losi springs, what was your spring setup with the 2660 when they were on the rig?

 

[kurtus]

So I decided to go with the 2660 bigbores with orange losb1117 springs for the front and I'm gonna use the the creeper shocks limited as is in the rears with Axial axi30215 medium(2.25 rate) green 90mm x 14mm springs for the rears"thumbsup". I am also wondering Casey where you mounted the brxl's into the pro dart when you were running them, I gotta move the esc off of the front links cause it's limiting my link positioning options as well as front shock articulation? Is an fxr my only option here up high in the chassis?? Thx

 

[jojo303d]

Yes, I am aware of this....I am merely stating what works for me. I tend to run stiffer rear springs for uphill climbs. When going uphill, the weight is all on the back on the rig, and the suspension acts differently. I prefer to keep a stronger rear, and let the front move as it needs to. This setup tends to work good for my driving style.

Also, keep in mind, this chassis is designed around a 3.5" front shock, and a 4" rear. Now, if you try to match the strengths of the springs, you will find the front more stiff. I compensate by stepping up the spring rate in the rear. I have built 5 of these rigs with this chassis now, and that is just what seems to work with my testing.

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program.

Casey

casey i was only giving a idea that is cool on what works for you and I was mearly saying what works for me no hard feelings. its cool you have 5 of them so you know how they work"thumbsup"

 

[Highlucks]

Hey man, rather than clutter up your thread with my pictures. Here is a link to all the photos I have for the PD. I took a few more last night for you.

highlucks PD

If you need any specific shots let me know."thumbsup"

 

[kurtus]

Hey man, rather than clutter up your thread with my pictures. Here is a link to all the photos I have for the PD. I took a few more last night for you.

highlucks PD

If you need any specific shots let me know."thumbsup"

Thx buddy, thats really helpful"thumbsup". I can see a few changes that I need to make on my upperlink setup for sure. Is all the info on your suspension setup in your build thread, I'm just gonna start reading through it to see what your spring set is, limiting in the shocks, springs, shk oils etc.:mrgreen:

 

[kurtus]

Little update, the poison dart is getting torn down again, I just got my replacement xvd's that Tom sent out to me very quickly but the short shaft is binding really bad on the new set too so I'm sending both sets back for now until they get a replacement batch in cause there is an issue with them. I also want to cut the notch out of the side of my skins for the upper links so I can make adjustments on the fly, the esc and plate need to be relocated forward to clear the cross braces. I ordered up the traxxas 2660 bigbores for the front and I'm gonna use my xr10 shocks on the rears. I think this will give me really smooth articulation one I do the shock cap mod to the bigbores, I have integy and gh racing balled shock caps already for the xr comp shocks out back"thumbsup". Anyways onto some pics of what cause that lovely pop sound in that video and some pics of the short xvd shaft issue.

 

[Highlucks]

All my information can be found Here in post #2. Sorry it is not more precise. At the same time Casey and I finished this chassis I was just starting to work on my XR10 so most of my time was dedicated to that.

 

[KC_JoNeS]

Well, I can assist a bit

Shock oil - I ran 35 wt
Front shocks - close to 3.75"
rear shocks - 4"
front springs - Losi Mini-T orange
rear springs - your choice

rear upper links - 111mm eye to eye
front upper links - 87mm eye to eye using VP 4 link plate (make them a bit longer with a single row 4 link plate)

Keep in mind, my upper links are dependent upon my axles as well. Yours will vary slightly.

that should be a good enough for now.

 

[kurtus]

Thx gents, that helps alot. The biggest battle now is trying to make sidewinder sv2 fit on the front links good.

 

[KC_JoNeS]

Thx gents, that helps alot. The biggest battle now is trying to make sidewinder sv2 fit on the front links good.

yeah, that will be tough. I always had to run my BRXL on the rear links...but with a dig there, it is not easy. So, I switched to an FXR, and have it up on top of the dig servo.

Casey

 

[kurtus]

Ok so I'm done pissing around with trying to get the sv2 to fit nicely, it works good now but once I put the 2660 shocks on the front I'm gonna get more travel and the esc will hit the upper cross links for the hood. So I ordered up an fxr that should be here tomorrow along with my 2660 bb, 2662 bb, mini t front spring set and axial green 90mm springs to try out back. I'm gonna keep the fxr on the front link plate cause I like keeping everything down low, thinking I'm gonna do the shock cap mod to the fronts and limit it to keep the fronts around 3.60" eye to eye, rears I will leave as is with fuel tube and run them flipped front and rear. I pulled the side panels off and cut the sides out where the upper links bolt in, Michelle at krawler koncept did an awesome job of matching the purple that Casey used on this chassis, it blends right in"thumbsup". Moved my upper links to fix a squat issue I was having and went back to the test site where I snapped my gears in the tranny in the vid I put up, hit the dig slammed the gas and the front end just shot right up the rock ledge. One thing I notice though is that it has so much forward bit that if I try to climb something with an undercut ledge the front end wants to dig down and the rears seam to be working so hard that I gotta hit dig to get the dig to pull the front up and over the undercut, I can see both rear springs compress completely when it happens. I don't think it's a big deal it just has sooooo much forward bite, almost like the rear axle is trying to walk into the fronts when the front is really bound up, make sense? Any idea why? I have my front uppers angled up from the axle to the chassis and the rear is as close to parallel as I'm making it till my link plate shows but it's close with a slight rise from the axle to the chassis fwiw. Well thats the plans for now, just waiting on my paradox rear link plate and a 35t holmes that I got a good deal on and I should be good to go with this one. I'll put up some pics tonight of where it's at before I rip it down again for the third time now:ror: lol

 

[Krawler Konceptz]

Cant wait to see pics!

 

[kurtus]

Got my Bigbores yesterday, ended up with the 5862 slash bb kit. I think there has been alot of confusion as to the lengths of these shocks. The traxxas 2660 are 3.35" eye to eye and the traxxas 2662 is 4" eye to eye.......makes me wonder what the 2661 length is?? I have been reading all over this forum that the 2660 in 3.5" eye which is not true, the info on the 2662 is correct though at 4", can anyone with an unmodified 2661 give me the exact dimensions eye to eye?

I got to work on these last night, did the shock cap mod on all 4 using the traxxas short rod ends with m3 hardware tapped and heavily threadlocked into place. I've had them sitting and drying for 14 hours now but don't want to rush filling them up yet and ruining the seal. Seeing how the 2660 are 3.35" I just cut the top off, added the traxxas short link ends, no internal limiting and no bump stops, ended up at 3.7" eye to eye for the fronts. The rears I added 5mm internal limiters to make the stroke equal to the front, then added the traxxas short link ends and used the stock blue bump stops so the shocks bottomed the same as the fronts since I'm using the full size spring in the rears and they don't limit travel like the mini t springs do. I ended up at 4.05" eye to eye on the rears this way. Went with orange front mini t springs and ofna hyper10 sc blue springs on the rears that are 2.5 rate and 80mm long.

I'm really happy with the way these turned out and it is a very easy mod to do, gonna be able to run these flipped now to get just a little lower cog. I'm gonna start with the suggest oil wt that Casey suggest to start and see if there are any unloading issues that need to be addressed then I can figure out if the rear spring setup is gonna work ok. I also ordered up some 70mm axial white springs to try as well.

Here are some picks of the shocks mocked up"thumbsup"

FXR will be here Tuesday

 

[CREEPERBOB]

I'm gonna be doing the rod end mod on a set of losi 4" shocks. I'm gonna drill and tap the end of the cartridge and run a button head bolt in from the inside and into the rod end,(with locktite)

 

[kurtus]

I'm gonna be doing the rod end mod on a set of losi 4" shocks. I'm gonna drill and tap the end of the cartridge and run a button head bolt in from the inside and into the rod end,(with locktite)

Thats what I did, used a 10mm m3 button head screw and tapped the aluminum cap, loaded on the threadlock to seal inside of the shockcap where the screw contacts inside and the plastic link end jams the threadlock down into the topside of the shock cap creating a seal all around"thumbsup". I don't see these leaking anytime soon and should have silky smooth suspension like this:mrgreen:

 

[kurtus]

Got my paradox link mount and bec jacks today and I gotta say that just totally cured my tt issue I was having, great product Thomas"thumbsup". This thing is almost done now except I gotta try to figure out a way to clock the c hubs and/or just shorten up the upper links at the expense of a lower drive shaft angle, get the fxr in to free up the front end fron binding with the sv2 and maybe put some mini t blue rear springs on the rears for better upper link clearance as they are just starting to hit the springs fully flexed. I had to make the uppers 134mm eye to eye on the rears with 5/16 white delrin and put a 15 degree bend in them 2/3 of the way down them for clearance of the shock and keeping Anyways, I'm stoked on the performance this thing is offering now, getting close to that xr but not quite, lacking a little in breakover but it sure works great for a shafty"thumbsup" Thx for all the input so far guys