mfishr
Pebble Pounder
Spiike - PM me - I have a NB chassis in the garage w/ the part you need, just need an address to mail too.
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New Bright Jeep Rubicon
- Thread starter Spiike
- Start date
I pmed you.
So my first application of waterweld went successful for one side of my truck
after about 5 minutes of play the leftside tore off, only because i only put half as much waterweld as the other side, this was because i cracked the cv ball joint and covered the entire ball joint with waterweld. I am on the second application for the left side front drive train. we will see how it works after i dremel it in a few hours
So my first application of waterweld went successful for one side of my truck
after about 5 minutes of play the leftside tore off, only because i only put half as much waterweld as the other side, this was because i cracked the cv ball joint and covered the entire ball joint with waterweld. I am on the second application for the left side front drive train. we will see how it works after i dremel it in a few hours
I have the same truck and the same issues. Done a little to it...exrended shocks and cut the springs. Articulates pretty well for what it is. My main problem is that the battery sucks and it needs more torque! About to do a similar four link to it and I'll play with it until I get my taxes and buy an axial...finding replacement parts is a nightmare to say the least. I've stripped the rear gears in mine several times and have had it since christmas also...blows
oh and I'm going to attempt to convert mine to four wheel steering if I can get a second front diff...lol
ought to be an interesting experience
oh and I'm going to attempt to convert mine to four wheel steering if I can get a second front diff...lol
ought to be an interesting experience
thats awesome in a way and random!
http://cid-8db580b03ac77813.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=play&resid=8DB580B03AC77813!1244
here is a link to pictures of my crawler before and after my paint job.
first i broke the mirrors
I bought traxxas grey soft springs, 4 total. 2 on the back 4 link suspension. other 2 in my hobby toolbox till i make the front 4 wheel.
broke the rear suspension hook.
I bought a #8 galvonized threaded steel rod. And bought a pack of traxxas 12 eye rod ends, which you can see in the photos. to build the 4 link suspension kit. I also broke the shocks mount due to too much tension.
upgraded to 5" wood screws in back suspension, I couldn't find the right bolt that fits without the threaded all the way up (didn't have a dremel at the time) articulation is great! even though front is stock, i had previously had 3 1/2 inch wood screws in front, but preverted back to stock because the threads against shock noise sucks.
haven't broke the gears yet. but i broke the front wheel drive CV joints, the ball pins wore right off! so now as you've found this thread repairing it. i got 2 and a half hours before the waterweld cures.
I have bought 1 and have another on order, so i will have 2 #1884 gear drive/idler gear drive gear shaft. but i'll be using the 20t/44t drive gear to add a 4th gear to my NB crawler.
I have bought aluminum plating just 2 of them, to build a chassis, haven't got anything else yet.
i have NOT found the 280 motors (i have serial number) from a make called jaimco electronics that i know works in this NB crawler. from previous research. (still looking)
I have broke the rear right body mount on my body, so now i got aluminum tubing and have a 1" body lift on my truck.
used an exacto knife and dremel to cut tread on tires, and thinned walls of tires. waiting till spring to test, -11c outside stiffens them right up.
Triple 1000mah cheap nicd i mean cheap battery packs in parallel. givin me about roughly 4 hours playing time dependin what i'm doin, thick snow and chains do drain power lots.
tire on top allows it to roll back on its tires again lol crazy enough
http://cid-8db580b03ac77813.skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?page=play&resid=8DB580B03AC77813!1244
here is a link to pictures of my crawler before and after my paint job.
first i broke the mirrors
I bought traxxas grey soft springs, 4 total. 2 on the back 4 link suspension. other 2 in my hobby toolbox till i make the front 4 wheel.
broke the rear suspension hook.
I bought a #8 galvonized threaded steel rod. And bought a pack of traxxas 12 eye rod ends, which you can see in the photos. to build the 4 link suspension kit. I also broke the shocks mount due to too much tension.
upgraded to 5" wood screws in back suspension, I couldn't find the right bolt that fits without the threaded all the way up (didn't have a dremel at the time) articulation is great! even though front is stock, i had previously had 3 1/2 inch wood screws in front, but preverted back to stock because the threads against shock noise sucks.
haven't broke the gears yet. but i broke the front wheel drive CV joints, the ball pins wore right off! so now as you've found this thread repairing it. i got 2 and a half hours before the waterweld cures.
I have bought 1 and have another on order, so i will have 2 #1884 gear drive/idler gear drive gear shaft. but i'll be using the 20t/44t drive gear to add a 4th gear to my NB crawler.
I have bought aluminum plating just 2 of them, to build a chassis, haven't got anything else yet.
i have NOT found the 280 motors (i have serial number) from a make called jaimco electronics that i know works in this NB crawler. from previous research. (still looking)
I have broke the rear right body mount on my body, so now i got aluminum tubing and have a 1" body lift on my truck.
used an exacto knife and dremel to cut tread on tires, and thinned walls of tires. waiting till spring to test, -11c outside stiffens them right up.
Triple 1000mah cheap nicd i mean cheap battery packs in parallel. givin me about roughly 4 hours playing time dependin what i'm doin, thick snow and chains do drain power lots.
tire on top allows it to roll back on its tires again lol crazy enough
Yea I'm all about random...
I have a suggestion on the tires if you havent done it yet. There is one hole on the inside of each rim, drill two holes per section of the inside of the rim. It helped mine quite a bit and I havent shaved the treads yet. What I used for my shock extensions was a 4inch m6 machine screw and a ground off the threads and put thick heat shrink on them and lubed them with die electric since its clear and not too messy. I'm going to borrow your four link idea if you dont mind. Been contiplating it but havent seen any pics of where to mount the links till now. Like how you flipped the shock mounts too. I might try that to see if it stops the torque flex that i have from the cut springs.
I have a suggestion on the tires if you havent done it yet. There is one hole on the inside of each rim, drill two holes per section of the inside of the rim. It helped mine quite a bit and I havent shaved the treads yet. What I used for my shock extensions was a 4inch m6 machine screw and a ground off the threads and put thick heat shrink on them and lubed them with die electric since its clear and not too messy. I'm going to borrow your four link idea if you dont mind. Been contiplating it but havent seen any pics of where to mount the links till now. Like how you flipped the shock mounts too. I might try that to see if it stops the torque flex that i have from the cut springs.
oh the link to those Jaimco motors...
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_232005_-1
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_232005_-1
Yeah those are the motors, i have my local guru at the hobby shop tracking those motors down, i found with that website i need to use a cc# and order at least 10 bucks otherwards you'll get charged $5 handling fee or something, so it will be a little costly, i think ill order wire heat wrap stuff and led or something just to make it cheaper and worth while ordering from that site.
your suggestion drilling holes in the rims, this will allow more air to pass through the hole allowin the truck to sink in the tires better? good thinkin, i'll have to give it a try.
as for the shock screws, i just haggled my local pawn shop guy for a dremel, got it for $15 cdn, it was missing parts for it, so i need to buy a metal grinder head so i can shave the threads. its on my todo list!
yup, go hard, there is a link to where i was learning how to mount the 4 link. and it was very difficult, and I will be changing the 4 link suspension when i am done.
gotta mount the lower rods down below the axle, and the upper rods above the axle, otherwards the axle won't be balanced, I don't know whether you can fix the problem where i have, when the truck flexes, the rear tires turn away from where the front tire is sagging if that makes sense.
this is where i learned how to do it, with addition of looking at 100s of different pictures of rock crawler rc and 1:1 scale
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/suspension/131_0307_four_link_suspension_part_2/index.html
this i found today.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2169&highlight=4-link
if you can help it, don't make the same mistake i made
its not that much of a turning angle, but its about a 5-10 degree turn radius, when your right tire is lifted off the ground, the rear suspension turns to the left. oh well first RC mods i've evern done is this rc truck!
your suggestion drilling holes in the rims, this will allow more air to pass through the hole allowin the truck to sink in the tires better? good thinkin, i'll have to give it a try.
as for the shock screws, i just haggled my local pawn shop guy for a dremel, got it for $15 cdn, it was missing parts for it, so i need to buy a metal grinder head so i can shave the threads. its on my todo list!
yup, go hard, there is a link to where i was learning how to mount the 4 link. and it was very difficult, and I will be changing the 4 link suspension when i am done.
gotta mount the lower rods down below the axle, and the upper rods above the axle, otherwards the axle won't be balanced, I don't know whether you can fix the problem where i have, when the truck flexes, the rear tires turn away from where the front tire is sagging if that makes sense.
this is where i learned how to do it, with addition of looking at 100s of different pictures of rock crawler rc and 1:1 scale
http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/suspension/131_0307_four_link_suspension_part_2/index.html
this i found today.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2169&highlight=4-link
if you can help it, don't make the same mistake i made
its not that much of a turning angle, but its about a 5-10 degree turn radius, when your right tire is lifted off the ground, the rear suspension turns to the left. oh well first RC mods i've evern done is this rc truck!
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
I've got six of those motors sitting in my parts bin. Never been used.
I might also still have a spare axle kicking around and assorted other doo-dads.
Standard NiMh 8xAA flat packs work great in them.
Have you cut above the links for more compression?
I might also still have a spare axle kicking around and assorted other doo-dads.
Standard NiMh 8xAA flat packs work great in them.
Have you cut above the links for more compression?
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no i have not, but i seen these pictures and realized that many people have cut them as well, my chassis is starting to crack in the rear because of the extra tension from the 4 link is different than using the stock swivel thing lol. anyways i'm good on the axles, would be nice getting those 280 jaimeco motors! for the right price later on this month, money we (fiance and i) got is for milk 
heres my update on my problem, the cv joint ball cracked, waterweld n all. however the plastic ball underneath was cracked from first true with glue gun
1. i either need steel fabricated 6mm hex cv joint ball.
or
2. jb weld fabricate my own ball, sandpaper the shit out of the partly stripped hex axle, and using my m6 rod for the cv joint
already got new axles coming the stripped hex axle wouldnt be a problem if i got new metal or aluminum cv joint. either way 1 would be pure nice, do local metal fab shops do cheap rc parts? lol plus i don't do autocad well..
eventually building my own custom chassis, and adding 4 link suspension in front, rear is already built, but the plan is when i get those 280 motors, i can also fab new motor mount, add a 4th gear got a 20t/44t what i realized, when you add a 4th gear the wheels spin backwards right? so i have to swap out the rear axle and it will run backwards with the motor on the inside instead of outside. thus having to fab more brackets for newer 4 link suspension links for the upper arms as seen with other modded nb jeeps
tommorow morning i dremel sand a little around the edges and test
heres my update on my problem, the cv joint ball cracked, waterweld n all. however the plastic ball underneath was cracked from first true with glue gun
1. i either need steel fabricated 6mm hex cv joint ball.
or
2. jb weld fabricate my own ball, sandpaper the shit out of the partly stripped hex axle, and using my m6 rod for the cv joint
already got new axles coming the stripped hex axle wouldnt be a problem if i got new metal or aluminum cv joint. either way 1 would be pure nice, do local metal fab shops do cheap rc parts? lol plus i don't do autocad well..
eventually building my own custom chassis, and adding 4 link suspension in front, rear is already built, but the plan is when i get those 280 motors, i can also fab new motor mount, add a 4th gear got a 20t/44t what i realized, when you add a 4th gear the wheels spin backwards right? so i have to swap out the rear axle and it will run backwards with the motor on the inside instead of outside. thus having to fab more brackets for newer 4 link suspension links for the upper arms as seen with other modded nb jeeps
tommorow morning i dremel sand a little around the edges and test
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Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
The combination of longer shock rods and cutting the chassis actually gives almost as much flex as my AX10 has. If you look at the pic closely you can see that I made the cut-out very carefully and then glued them on back on reversed so they are inside the chassis acting as reinforcements. You can also see the white spacers I used for my body lift in the bottom pic.
My shock extensions are just straight steel rod glued into the lower shock mounts with rivits crimped to the top.
Traxxas has a few different sizes of metal CV balls from their driveshafts. Wonder if one of them is the right size. If I have time later I'll take a look.
2 motors and whatever spare parts I have are yours for shipping cost. let me know when you want them.
My shock extensions are just straight steel rod glued into the lower shock mounts with rivits crimped to the top.
Traxxas has a few different sizes of metal CV balls from their driveshafts. Wonder if one of them is the right size. If I have time later I'll take a look.
2 motors and whatever spare parts I have are yours for shipping cost. let me know when you want them.
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XcrawlerkidX
Quarry Creeper
This truck was the worst ever! I was using it outside one day and I was crawling on a rock and it rolled over the hex broke off the wheel. So I took it back got my money back and then took the rest of the money out of my savings(it was like 200 bucks, I quit delivering papers, only 14 then) and bout myself a Losi Mini. A whole lot better then the NB piece of shit. Wish I still had the body tho.
904crawler
Pebble Pounder
hey man sorry to here about the broken parts, i would just toss that thing and get a good crawler
I used aluminum tubing, cut them 1" long and used longer screws to raise the body, you can look closely in my picture profile of my truck, there is a link in the first post. thats a good idea with the rods right into the shocks and glue them, i'll have to keep that in mind for my next project. What i have is for the rear is 5" wood screws, i'm going to dremel the excessive threads that are not needed that rub against the springs. my truck works now, and once the chassis breaks (already cracking) then i'm scrapping the chassis and building my own.
I've looked at my LHS for traxxas or hpi, they have CV bal joints, but they would not be easily fitted on my 6mm hex axle. spent an hour looking through boxes for it and on the wall.
Appreciate it, when i have the cash i will definitally keep you in mind, way cheaper than the jaimco website. i'll send you a pm! if my wife don't kill me for the extra cash i spent on my rig lol.
LOL yeah I can't wait till i get the cash to buy a scx10 for my jeep rubicon to make a scaler RC truck. I was 2 days late on the warranty/cash back. I was screwed. but i've already put about $50 in batteries, parts, suspension, chassis into this truck, so its just a side project.
I didn't let it win, I was just outside testing my truck on my snow track, the waterweld is holding AMAZINGLY! the one side i molded my own CV ball joint, using a metric 6 rod for the joint, i lost about 5 degrees of turning, but in due time the truck will grind the ball down to size more. and then in due time, when mail comes i will have replacement parts for the cv ball joint.
So i won!
I had $20 saved up, but then I had to use it take my spoiled girls to Mcdonalds. But my birthday is in May, I just gotta beg the grandparents for a few bucks here, and mommy for a few more bucks there, and the fiance for another few bucks. Hopefully puttin it all in a jar to get my scx10!
but for now, My truck works, the waterweld holds.
oh i only flipped the shock mounts because the screws i'm using are reallly long
you were talking about steeling my 4 link suspension idea. i was just randomly reading up on the scx10 cause thats what i'm most intrigued and want to buy. Anyways regarding the 4 link suspension, i believe i have the steering issue on my truck is because the top or upper links are shorter than the lower links, thus turning the wheels when 1 wheel drags.
When i make the new chassis for my NB axles, I will have to keep in mind that i need to use same length links on all 4 rods, or if you use bent rods, making sure that point to point is the same length as the other rods point to point
does that make sense?
Tinker001
Newbie
Hello Spike
Yo Spike Know where your at. I haven't got a pot pi## in or a window to throw it out some days. I build a lot of stuff from salvage parts. I actually got the bearings and front hubs for an old Tamiya buggy from computer hard drives.
If you have the time and inclination send me some pics detailed ones of the broken part especially if you can remove it. Don't laugh but I may be new to rock crawling,( Heck I am soooo green I glow) but I grew up on a farm where my dad taught me to fix things that broke figure out why they broke and upgrade when you can. Also I have been a model maker for about thirty years now and spend a lot of time building from scratch. I may be able to suggest a way to build a better CV joint out of stronger materials or some thing. Too bad your not close by I always work better when I can pick things up and see how they work.
Shoot me an E-mail at joelwood006@hotmail.com with pics and Ill burn some brain cells.
Ok thats done now can anyone point me to chassis blueprints or design ideas that I can use for a 24'th scale rockcrawler I will be using a centre mount motor with a gear reduction box and shaft drives to axles. Unless I can figure out how to use the 5V disk drive motors I have. we can either start another thread or just e mail me with directions to a web site.
Please Note I am serious I like building from stuff from scratch and scavenging parts makes the process cheaper.
Have fun all you crawler nuts hope to be able to help.
Yo Spike Know where your at. I haven't got a pot pi## in or a window to throw it out some days. I build a lot of stuff from salvage parts. I actually got the bearings and front hubs for an old Tamiya buggy from computer hard drives.
If you have the time and inclination send me some pics detailed ones of the broken part especially if you can remove it. Don't laugh but I may be new to rock crawling,( Heck I am soooo green I glow) but I grew up on a farm where my dad taught me to fix things that broke figure out why they broke and upgrade when you can. Also I have been a model maker for about thirty years now and spend a lot of time building from scratch. I may be able to suggest a way to build a better CV joint out of stronger materials or some thing. Too bad your not close by I always work better when I can pick things up and see how they work.
Shoot me an E-mail at joelwood006@hotmail.com with pics and Ill burn some brain cells.
Ok thats done now can anyone point me to chassis blueprints or design ideas that I can use for a 24'th scale rockcrawler I will be using a centre mount motor with a gear reduction box and shaft drives to axles. Unless I can figure out how to use the 5V disk drive motors I have. we can either start another thread or just e mail me with directions to a web site.
Please Note I am serious I like building from stuff from scratch and scavenging parts makes the process cheaper.
Have fun all you crawler nuts hope to be able to help.
Mud Puppy
Rock Crawler
Since you are a model maker I've got your hook-up right here. This is intended as a cardboard model, but I'm sure it could be made from styrene and then used as a crawler platform.
http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu312/jeepnut42/Jeeps/?action=view¤t=11.jpg
I will draw a diagram and take measurements when i actually get the spare parts, they are in the mail will be a few weeks, as i do not have the spare parts here, i broke both cv ball joints, there is pictures above of my handwork with the waterweld making my own cv ball joints, and its working great! i could of used a larger rod to make the truck front tires less wobbly. but thats okay, cause i'm happy it even works again. I do know off hand that the axle is 6mm 6 sided hex. the old plastic covered about 5mm of the axle, and the pin needs to sit flush against the axle. I think it would be easier to show you in diagram when i take the rest of the measurements
So i was playing with my truck today, and i was trying to climb a steep incline, which is super great, but as you let go of the trigger, you slide backwards. I know putting disk breaks on my truck from another rock crawler would be super expensive.
I'm looking for a super cheap inexpensive way to apply the breaks when the trigger is released.
The way around it that i've been doing now is, when i'm driving up hills or obstacles is i apply very little gas without letting go of the gas.
another problem i'm having is when the battery is cold, when i hold the stearing, and hit the gas, it lags compared to when i hit the gas without stearing. is this a servo issue? sucking too much power from the batteries. or is it just cause its cold?
just keeping my options open thinkin of ideas to make my truck work better for cheap. ideas are welcome
I'm looking for a super cheap inexpensive way to apply the breaks when the trigger is released.
The way around it that i've been doing now is, when i'm driving up hills or obstacles is i apply very little gas without letting go of the gas.
another problem i'm having is when the battery is cold, when i hold the stearing, and hit the gas, it lags compared to when i hit the gas without stearing. is this a servo issue? sucking too much power from the batteries. or is it just cause its cold?
just keeping my options open thinkin of ideas to make my truck work better for cheap. ideas are welcome
ninetwofiveRC
Quarry Creeper
heres mine "thumbsup" this is what the axles that you bought came off "thumbsup"
