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Panda Hobby Tera X1

Well the gear reduction doesn't bolt up in place of the stock motor, and most of those motors have really weak magnets from what I've found. I have some PN racing 130 motors that are 70t and 90t as well as some 110t ill probably try out. Those PN motors are much nicer than the sealed can china motors with weak magnets and should bolt right in place of the 180

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Ok. I have some 130 sized from Kyosho Mini-Z that might work.

I've also just found that Redcat Sumo crawler uses a 180 sized motor that might be an option.
 
Ok. I have some 130 sized from Kyosho Mini-Z that might work.

I've also just found that Redcat Sumo crawler uses a 180 sized motor that might be an option.
The sumo doesn't use a 180 motor. It's roughly the same size 030 on most 1/24 crawlers, but it has a gear reduction unit.

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The sumo doesn't use a 180 motor. It's roughly the same size 030 on most 1/24 crawlers, but it has a gear reduction unit.

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Thanks....not sure where I found that info on the Sumo.
Ordering a few PN Racing 70t motors and hope the electronic gearbox control on the Tetra X1 I can get to crawl slow enough.
 
It's not really a gearbox control It's just limiting your throttle like alot of the recent RTR RCs. I personally am not a fan of it because it just limits your power, But others like it and it may be better if you have a motor that makes more power in the first place. Mine should be here Monday

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The sumo doesn't use a 180 motor. It's roughly the same size 030 on most 1/24 crawlers, but it has a gear reduction unit.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Picked up a Sumo motor from the hobby shop last night and it's the same size as the Tetra motor and was told it was a 65t motor.....Maybe they changed the size of the motor
 
Picked up a Sumo motor from the hobby shop last night and it's the same size as the Tetra motor and was told it was a 65t motor.....Maybe they changed the size of the motor
That's strange, I have 3 1/24 Redcat sumo crawlers and it's always been a 030 with a gear reduction box. Do you have any pictures? The stock sumo barely has room between the AA battery boxes. A bigger motor is always good, but the sumo was probably the only micro crawler that didn't need a motor upgrade lol

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That's strange, I have 3 1/24 Redcat sumo crawlers and it's always been a 030 with a gear reduction box. Do you have any pictures? The stock sumo barely has room between the AA battery boxes. A bigger motor is always good, but the sumo was probably the only micro crawler that didn't need a motor upgrade lol

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I'll take a photo of both of them. I know it's a Sumo motor because it came in the factory packaging and has the gear box adapter plate attached.

You must really like them if you have 3?:)
 
I'll take a photo of both of them. I know it's a Sumo motor because it came in the factory packaging and has the gear box adapter plate attached.



You must really like them if you have 3?:)
The first one I pre ordered when new. The second came in a bundle with a trade, the 3rd was recent, almost new and such a good deal I couldn't pass it up haha. I definitely have way to many micro crawlers.

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The first one I pre ordered when new. The second came in a bundle with a trade, the 3rd was recent, almost new and such a good deal I couldn't pass it up haha. I definitely have way to many micro crawlers.

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Nice! Have a feeling i'm going to be offloading more 1/10 and 1/12 crawlers for more 1/18 and 1/24. Easier to find good crawling spots were i live for these micros and easier to find spots to store more of them:) Hobby shops need to do a better job of marketing them as the one near me tends to push the 1/10 scale. The micros sit in the box on the shelf. They need build a small off road coarse within the shop for them to display.
 
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Lack of good crawling spots near me is what interested me in the smaller scales, however as popular as they are now they still are nowhere near as popular as the larger scale

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I bought a blue Tera X1 two weeks ago and played for about 10 minutes indoor, and I want to get a bigger crawler (1/10) so I am selling my blue one. If anyone interested, please private message me. Thank you.
 
Anybody know how to set the voltage cutoff? It seems like my son’s is on (the car shuts off), but too low. When I go to put the 800mah lipo in storage, the charger spazzes out and says voltage is too low. For now, the workaround is to throw it on the stock wall charger that doesn’t care what voltage the battery is at, bring it up to a better level, then throw it back on the real charger.
 
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Anybody know how to set the voltage cutoff? It seems like my son’s is on (the car she’s off), but too low. When I go to put the 800mah lipo in storage, the charger spazzes out and says voltage is too low. For now, the workaround is to throw it on the stock wall charger that doesn’t care what voltage the battery is at, bring it up to a better level, then throw it back on the real charger.
Like most RTR ESC's, I doubt the LVC is adjustable. Try getting in contact with Panda Hobby. They supposedly had some problems with electronics. IDK if that's one of the issues, but they will likely send you a replacement.

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Yet another question: Anybody know of other shock spring cups that would fit? One fell off, and the only option from Panda right now is a pair of assembled shocks for $30 on the slow boat.
 
Wow. I'm really impressed with the Tetra. Just got one courtesy m34doors on this forum. Can't believe the overall quality and features - full bearings, wheel weights, leds, oil-filled shocks and on and on. Took one of the diff covers off and found the ring and pinion are lubed! Compares very favorably with my whole collection - 2 Axial, Vaterra Slickrock, Gmade Sawback, even my big RC4WD Galande. Gonna enjoy this on the rocks around my garden pond.

John
 
Shape Shifter - on the first page of this thread you referred to programming the leds for brake and reverse. Don't see anything in the manual and wondering if you could share your technique?

Thanks, John
 
Shape Shifter - on the first page of this thread you referred to programming the leds for brake and reverse. Don't see anything in the manual and wondering if you could share your technique?

Thanks, John


Its not really a "programming" thing, its just plugging the lights in to the Rx/ESC unit correctly. I cant show pics tonight but a clue is that the two "control" channels 1 and 2 are plugged in as you would expect with negative on one side, red in the middle, and signal on the other. However the other channels for lights are plugged in bass-ackwards. That is - the negative is actualy on the opposite pin. Its the one small thing the manual does not clearify.
 
I designed and printed a simple battery tray that moves the battery to a better position.

Would you be willing to share the design and/or sell some of those trays? I would love to move the battery to the front.

And I am also watching Amain and Amazon closely, hoping they start stocking a full range of parts and hop ups. I'm still waiting for a motor and set of shocks (really just need the spring cup, but can't find anything like it) to arrive from China for one of our Tetras, and my son took a tumble and broke a lower link and bent an axle... all parts not yet in stock stateside.
 
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