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SCX10 Honcho mods

Installed Topcad 100 mm (eye to eye) shocks (50011gu). Almost same length as Wraith shocks (103 mm).

TC_shock_1.JPG


Lower part is narrow. You can take out O-rings but not pistons from the bottom.

TC_shock_2.JPG


I like construction of cap on Topcad shock better then one on Axial. No problem with twisting diaphragm so it squeezes inside when tightening the cap.

TC_shock_3.JPG


They come with black springs which are long for this shocks. I believe same spring are used in other shocks (105 mm?). I want shocks to collapse a little under rig weight to allow down travel when one wheel goes over dimple. It is easy with Axail shocks which springs are shorter then full travel (you can set negative preload, not only positive).
So I ordered optional spring set (23046). Description says red springs are softer then red Axial springs (AX30218 ).

Springs.JPG


Indeed they are softer and I am running them now. Orange and green are even softer. As for black springs I could not tell difference from red Axials with my hand.

Also put Topcad aluminum mounts (22461bk and 22462bk) to reduce bumper bending over obstacles. Especially rear where I inserted screws to make it firm.

TC_bumper_mount.JPG
 
Re: SCX10 Honcho mods (Chevy Silverado)

Some updates.

First shot from last weekend at Cibolo creek

Cibolo_chevy.JPG


And video

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Wis84CKV6aI?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


***

Installed Topcad aluminum transmission case (22101bk) and HD gear set (22117bk)

topcad_transmission.JPG


Case is very good quality. Everything fits perfect. It has a groove for tight locking to protect gears from dust and moisture. I put grease there for better seal.
Gears look tough. They are light weight. I think it is carbide, not a steel as web site says. Well, even better. Gear set comes with 87T spur gear which is heavy and is definitely made of steel. Input shaft is shorter then Axial, does not leave space for slipper clutch. All gears are interchangeable with Axial so you can keep the clutch. I did not.

Then I painted wheels. Always wanted silver, still out of stock.
Stopped by Autozone and picked the only available rim paint "VHT Ford silver".

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True rim color for more scale look 8)
 
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Blue bird BMS 28A servo came last week from Hobby King.

bb_servo_1.JPG


I did not have proper tools to disassemble it. There are two 1.3 mm hex bolts that hold gear cover. Smallest wrench I had was 1.5 mm. Now I have precision tool kit and ready to go inside.

bb_servo_2.JPG


All gears are metal, no plastic pieces. Aluminum case. Coreless motor feels light.
You can see first ball bearing in top cover.

bb_servo_3.JPG


And a second bearing in output gear.

bb_servo_4.JPG


Covers have rubber seals so servo is pretty much water ready. I put some grease in and silicon glue around wire boot just to be sure.
Have not tested it outside yet. Going to try in Pedernales Falls this Sat.
 
This week I turned Honcho into Silverado.
I used Pro Line 2007 Chevy Silverado body (3230-00) and Dingo fender flares (AX80040). I cut front flares for better fit.
Painted with Pactra Metallic Green spray paint (RC266) followed by Tamiya Gun Metal {TS-38}. Pattern is done with Parma PSE Inca Design mask (PAR10813).

Here are some pictures.
Already tried the car on rocks Sat morning and got few scratches.

silverado_1.JPG


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I put Dingo rear bumper (AX80039B). The body is too long so I had to extend bumper mounts with Wraith tie rod and set screws.

rear_bumper.JPG


rear_bumper2.JPG


Have no lights. I am working on it.



Did you have to extend the wheelbase to fit the body? Looks good!
 
Yes. <a href="http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/axial-scx-10/434217-scx10-honcho-mods.html#post4240470">Earlier in this thread.</a>
For better fit I added some more spacers to rear links after that. Current wheel base is 13.1-13.2".

BTW Blue Bird servo is doing fine. I noticed improvement in torque vs stock AS-3 servo.
 
Stumbled upon your thread and found a lot of great info! I'm thinking of getting Axial high steering knuckles, Axial C-hubs and maybe Axial Universal Joint Sets, but I have the stock radio and I'm wondering if I will have to upgrade it in order to take advantage of better steering. Are you running the stock radio?
 
Just read through your thread. Was it worth switching the hexes. Did you notice a difference in the few mm you gained in width?
 
Long time, no updates. It's been a while since I put my hands on RC. Time to fix it)

ole_gators, I am running stock radio and receiver. Had no experience with other radios, I am satisfied with Axial. It's got steering adjustments so you will be fine with upgrades. C hubs are needed if you are going to clock axle (change suspension links length). Universal joints are must have, you will not get advantage of high steer knuckles with stock dog bones.

MattyJ603, those few mm really don't effect anything IMO. I was worried about tires rubbing rod ends on high steer knuckles as people reported here (VP knuckles). As you can see earlier in this thread I tried stock hexes with Axial high steering and there are no problems with rubbing.



Before I went to Jamaica I finished lights and cut RC4WD foams to make Iroks softer.

chevy_night.JPG


foams_cut.JPG


I can not find now where I saw this kind of foam cut. But it is definitely in SCX-10 section. Thank you for idea.
 
Winch

Ordered bunch of parts from asiatees.

Here is how I wired a winch

winch_1.JPG


It is a Topcad aluminum winch for 1/10 crawler (part # 80118gu). Good looking winch with Teflon coated wire, red alu hook and manual switch.
I did not want to upgrade Axial AX-3 radio, happy with it. So I ordered Topcad remote control (# 80119) and connected it directly to 2S battery with Deans-to-JST connector.

A perfect installation spot turned out to be a front bumper mount.

winch_3.JPG


Drilled bigger holes in winch plate.

winch_2.JPG


You can see small bolts that hold winch on plate. Very small, could be longer.

And made holes in bumper skid to put RC4WD winch line fairlead (# Z-S0414).

winch_4.JPG


Installed winch on front bumper mount. It is bolted to bumper mount and bumper itself.

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Put electronics in receiver box behind rear axle. All cables are connected with extenders - no need to open receiver box each time to unplug something)) Very convenient to program ESC.

winch_6.JPG


Sealed with silicon glue from Walmart (GE Silicone II). Strong stuff, had a hard time opening glued box, but easy to clean off after dried.

winch_7.JPG


Finally done!

winch_8.JPG


Winch is hidden under long Chevy body.



Towing hooks

No quick spots for recovery strap. To help it I installed Topcad hanging hooks (# 80131bk).

hook_1.JPG


They have two small holes. I drilled 1/8" hole on the side.

hook_2.JPG


Mounted through bumper mount bolts.

hook_3.JPG


Going to try winch and hooks next weekend.
 
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Noob question alert: Why is the hook mounted down? Wouldn't the strap fall off easily?
PS. I like the winch bolted to the bumper and bumper mount..I'm sure its is 100 times more sturdy.
 
Most times it is pulled up, strap should not fall. Probably will need to remount it facing back.

Winch is mounted under the hood because of body length, 19.5" (compare to Jeep Rubicon, 17").
 
Went to Cathedral Rock Park on Saturday to try the winch.

Always liked the look of Trepador tires, so recently got myself a set of those.

Cath_1.JPG


They are very nice trail tires, but not so good on rocks. Because of tall and slim shape steering is sharper comparing to other tires I had on this rig.

Cath_2.JPG


Found steep slope that truck can not overcome without winch.

Cath_3.JPG


Not so impressive on photo. It was hard for me to stand there to take a picture.

Cath_4.JPG


TopCad winch worked well. It is not so strong as their new big <a href="http://www.topcad.com.hk/product_info.php?products_id=2407">7.2V superwinch</a>. Even so, it is enough for me. And I think Teflon coated metal cable is too much for RC, regular rope would have been more handy.
 
Re: SCX10 Honcho mods (Chevy Silverado)

Tonight assembled set of TopCad Iron Clock wheels (part # 22477r).

New 12 hole beadlock wheels with 8 lug hub cover. Nice for Chevy 2500.

ic_1.JPG


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ic_3.JPG


32 small bolts per wheel makes it long to put apart and back together

ic_4.JPG


Each wheel weights 75g. I added 8 7g adhesive weights to make them heavier.

ic_5.JPG


Stock RC4WD foams are no good. And star cut foams over stripe of adhesive weights is terrible. Instead I used Panther RC F 401 memory foams.

iron_clock_1.JPG


Wheel ready

iron_clock_2.JPG


and looks good installed

iron_clock_3.JPG
 
Thanks.

Some more:

Plastic rod ends were not very reliable, especially on front axle side. Replaced with RC4WD alu rod ends (part # Z-S0429)

rod_ends.JPG


Integy side rock rail mounts (part # C24653GUN)

rail_mounts.JPG


Filled transmission with RC4WD Monster oil (part # Z-S0520). Maybe I put insufficient amount of lube, it is noisier then when it was filled with ball bearing grease.

RC4WD_trans_oil.JPG


Experimented with extension of WB8 drive shafts. 2 female ends and 1 cut male part with alu link inside to make it harder. Using it now in rear, works good.

shaft_mod.JPG


Out for fun run

WP_20131110_003.jpg


WP_20131110_001.jpg


Like Panther RC memory foams in Iroks.
 
Ive had great luck with marine grease. Rig looks awesome!!!
I agree with ya about RC4WD foams. Idk why they dont go with the memory foams.
 
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For some reason front axle became not smooth. Probably gears went bad.
Replaced stock 38/13 gears with heavy duty gear set AX30395.

gears.JPG


HD gears spines are curved and produce more noise then stock.
 
spiral bevel gears should actually be less noisy from what I've read...

possibly the gear tooth mesh is incorrect and either the pinion or ring need be shimmed ?

Be sure your bearings are clean/oiled and spin freely.
 
Will see after several runs.
I put them in new housing and new ceramic ball bearings. Lube is the same (RC4WD Monster oil).
In both axles HD gears produced more noise. They spin better. Maybe they need some kick in.
 
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