Steering Improvements

[allanon1965]

So there is absolutely no drag or performance with both OD and UD bevel gears installed? Im just a bit uncertain.

I was also uncertain on this, I ended up just UD the rear and leaving the front stock. I have no issues with binding drivetrain at all and it does improve turning and climbing. I cant say I will go OD in front due to the fact the OD gear mesh is the least out of all the gear sets and I have seen too many OD gears stripped out due to too much motor and not enough gear bite(mesh).

 

[TacoCrawler]

I actually prefer equal tire speed at all four corners.

I don't really like the push/pull traction when gearing the axle's differently.
Now if I were a trail basher I might feel otherwise.

But I generally crawl real slow and with precison
So.... to improve my steering...
I clocked the front axle and installed the alloy Axial 8* Chub/knuckles.
^ plus std beef tubes Fr/Rr and the Axial CV universal shafts up front.

It also helps to be sure the tire sidewalls are not too soft.
and cause the tire to roll off the wheel's bead when the wheels are turned.
Using a quality foam insert will minimize that tire roll.

I also purchased a 3 channel TX that offers more adjustment control
so that I could tune the steering better for more throw (EPA)

I think the easiest/least expensive way to increase/improve steering
is by utilizing the OD/UD gearing.

But hey... I can't do that to my 1:1...
unless it was only driven on loose traction surfaces.
A high traction surface would cause bind and snap the drive shaft(s) or worse.

A rc crawler is generally less critical...
but I do believe wear and tear could be increased.
Tho' likely minimal if the weight of the rig isn't too bad.

Reality is...

you won't know if you like it or not... until you try it ;-)

 

[Meatwad]

Many run od/ud gearing with no issues, myself included.

 

[zanthrax]

Like most crawlers the SCX10 has reverse ackermann steering.
When making a turn the inside wheel makes a smaller circle than the outside one so it should be at a sharper angle put the opposite happens.
Many aftermarket knuckles give you zero ackermann, which is an improvement.
The best solution would be to move the steering link to the back of the axle but the suspension links don't leave a lot of room for that.

 

[dextan22]

ok but i am just curious if i put od/ud gears in will it still run nice and smooth?

Just don't run it on pavement and you're good!



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[Meatwad]

Like most crawlers the SCX10 has reverse ackermann steering.
When making a turn the inside wheel makes a smaller circle than the outside one so it should be at a sharper angle put the opposite happens.
Many aftermarket knuckles give you zero ackermann, which is an improvement.
The best solution would be to move the steering link to the back of the axle but the suspension links don't leave a lot of room for that.

It's common knowledge that the knuckles from the original ax10, now scx10 axles are a swiped design from independent suspension designs. Where the linkage is behind the axle. Many have done bta with some creativity "thumbsup"

Otherwise corrected Ackerman knuckles or arms (in the case of xr/wraith knuckles) will go a long way.

 

[Hammer!]

Stop sweating it...just do it!

ok ok! ill do it! :shock: it sounds like the right thing to do. so here are my final standings of parts. Axial High clearance knuckles, bluemonnkey rc titanium steering links, axial od and ud bevel gears, and finally axial cvd's... sounds good?

also does anyone know if the high clearance knuckles will rub the tires? I'm running rc4wd beadlocks with no hex.

Yeah, I run Od/Ud in my rigs and it runs great. Xr is nice but kinda overkill for most people.

yeah i thought the xr mod would be a bit overkill :roll:

 

[Hammer!]

Just don't run it on pavement and you're good!



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hold on a second, i am probably going to run it on all surfaces...! :shock:

 

[Johnnysplits]

I ran mine on pavement and it's fine. But, It's not on pavement for long.

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

hold on a second, i am probably going to run it on all surfaces...! :shock:

On and RC you'll be fine. Don't run different gears on a 1:1 on high traction surfaces or you'll break lots of parts.



As for sharper actual steering going to any of the off the shelf high steer setups will make a huge difference in both ackerman angle and in how far the tires turn. Both of which make the rig turn sharper.


Personally when I ran scx axles I ran the XR conversion with VP knuckles since the steering arms can be bolted on both sides of the knuckle. The only axles available for those axles that are worth owning are VP's VVD's but for the cost of them I did the XR conversion and upgraded to alloy steering parts. ;-)

 

[redsawacs]

I think I am going to follow this thread and see how much money these guys make you spend! LOL

Universals and turn up your end points....less than 40$

 

[WHITE-TRASH]

I think I am going to follow this thread and see how much money these guys make you spend! LOL

Universals and turn up your end points....less than 40$

And you'd still have utter crap steering. Last I checked this thread was about improving the steering... :lol:


I don't make anyone spend money. I simply provide my perspective on what's good and what's worthless. If for some reason I decided to run another set of scx axles I'd do the XR conversion with HR C hubs and knuckles. Under $60 for alloy knuckles & C hubs and $40 for xr universals. That's less than the cost of good axles. ;-)

 

[Hammer!]

I don't mind spending good money for good results and performance steering lol, as long as everything works and runs smooths and proper

 

[Natedog]

Its also a good idea to use cvds instead of dogbones since they allow for more travel. Going to a xr / universal setup will give you more steering angle but also a little more width

I run Axial CVDs (with home made HD pins from #53 drill bits) for the stock width, XR mod is usually too wide on a scaler imo. "thumbsup"

 

[TacoCrawler]

I run Axial CVDs (with home made HD pins from #53 drill bits)

interesting

for the stock width, XR mod is usually too wide on a scaler imo. "thumbsup"

X2 regarding scale appearance

My 1:1 can only steer so far... with it's turning radius...
so if my toy steers too good... it wouldn't look very scale like.

but in the spirit of competition...
I understand the desire to have more.

 

[summerof95]

Just a note on the OD/UD, if you haven't noticed already, the two sets vary from stock by different amounts.

Stock ratio: 2.92
Underdrive: 3.31 (.39 difference)
Overdrive: 2.57 (.35 difference)

It's the difference between the front and rear axles that's important. The bigger the difference, the bigger the effect.

This allows you 4 different "settings," in order:
Stock
Overdrive in front
Underdrive in rear
Both

 

[Hammer!]

ill buy an overdrive set for the front and see how much difference it makes, then maybe i might buy an underdrive set.

 

[rcwolf]

I have axial highsteer knuckles, hot racing clockable C-hubs, rc4wd heavy duty cvd, od front, and home made all thread steering links. My wheelbase is about 11.5 inches. I use an M-11 radio. I can put up some pics tomorrow of my turning radius if you like.

 

[Trail Blazer]

Awesome thread, just got myself a honcho and knew I would be dealing with steering straight, as with all crawling lol. Thanks guys out me on a path already and my kits not even here yet hehe

 

[Hammer!]

I have axial highsteer knuckles, hot racing clockable C-hubs, rc4wd heavy duty cvd, od front, and home made all thread steering links. My wheelbase is about 11.5 inches. I use an M-11 radio. I can put up some pics tomorrow of my turning radius if you like.

that would be great thanks