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SteveC6R’s Bulletproof & Option Guide for the Yeti

Open diff option has been in testing for a couple weeks with zero failures. I should have the open diff option ready in 1-2 weeks.
 
Does this set up cure the weird swinging action that happens with the Yeti kit's factory Uni's?

If you mean twisting and bending, YES, the ofna setup is 1:8 buggy unis and much beefier. Are you open diff or have a locker up front?

If the front is locked, no matter what the setup is, it will always have a weird hop while turning.

If you are open diff and want to stay with a diff, hold off a couple weeks and Erik will have a diff option available "thumbsup"
 
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If you mean twisting and bending, YES, the ofna setup is 1:8 buggy unis and much beefier. Are you open diff or have a locker up front?

If the front is locked, no matter what the setup is, it will always have a weird hop while turning.

If you are open diff and want to stay with a diff, hold off a couple weeks and Erik will have a diff option available "thumbsup"

I haven't gotten to run mine yet, so I haven't experienced the twisting & bending. Though What I am seeing with the stock set up is the Uni's pivot points are out of alignment with the king pins causing the shafts to swing. The swinging seems like it could cause problems in the future.
 
Debating what to do for a knuckle option. Broke a stock knuckle and c. Already have aluminum C's. Knuckles are slim pickings now. May just go with a DLux set up, but want an open diff. Not sure if I can wait.....lol.

DLux, any hint on price of the open diff separately if I buy the spool set up now?
 
Okay, so I am about to pull the trigger on the OFNA driveshaft aluminum hub kit. I am wondering about have holes drilled for slugs.....not for adding weight, but for reducing weight on the hubs. I am only bashing this rig, will not be racing it. But I want something durable. I know the Yeti is nose heavy, so was looking at ways to keep from adding additional weight to the front.

Thoughts on this?
 
I just sent Jerry a PM asking if they would work on the RPM arms. I'll post back when he replies.


Sent from my modded TI-83 plus
 
He replied saying that he wasn't sure if they would fit the RPM arms. He did have a set of RPM arms to test them on.
But he did say that if he got the measurement for the RPM arms, he would cut some.


Sent from my modded TI-83 plus
 
The RPM arms have a little bit smaller space then the stock arms. It would be easy to file a little bit off to make them fit. I'll post up when mine get here.
 
The RPM arms have a little bit smaller space then the stock arms. It would be easy to file a little bit off to make them fit. I'll post up when mine get here.

I agree. I just held up my stock a-arms to my RPM's and the space is just a little smaller, wouldn't take long with a file/grinder.
 
This thread should be a sticky... I am a newbie and I have found this particular thread the most informative for me. Let's keep it at the top!
 
Want something sexy and functional as it should help with bent inner hinge pins, take a look at the EmeryworX front a-arms for the Yeti. Support a RCC vendor here: EmeryworX Chassis

FKlJSIh.jpg


f58EP8J.jpg
 
Ha ha I saw these beauties for the first time just a couple days ago and was wondering if these would make the list or not! These look like the perfect bomb proof addition to combine with those crazily over built, yet sexy, D-lux hub/axle units! Of course that is just my opinion and I have yet to have even one minute of real world run time with either product.
 
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