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thinking of lipo but dont understand to much

jkustomz28

Rock Stacker
Joined
Jan 14, 2013
Messages
60
Location
garden city
im thinking of getting a lipo for my wraith my questions are.

what is the biggest mah rating i can get that will fit in the front?

what C rating do i want for the most run time? (do i want a higher C rating or lower C rating)?

can i charge the battery in the car or does it have to be out?

hard case or soft case which is better and why?

and based on all those question does anyone have any that they recommend? (like anyone the cheaper the better)

and i dont know if it matters but i have a 27t axial motor 84/17 gearing and a CC BEC everything else is stock as far as electronics.

any help would be nice thank you in advance
 
I'm no help to you but I am glad that you posted this because I was getting ready to post it my self... Lipo sounds like the way to go.
 
i run a 2s 5000mah hard pack turnigy aswells as 2200 packs.

turnigy is all i run theyre a very good value you can sometimes buy 2 or three at the same price as one thunder power or other high priced battery


2s 6000mah last choice since it only 25c discharge and not in stock
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=19169

2s 5000 mah 40c
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16194

2s 4000mah, id be all over this one 40c lots of run time
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=16181

3s 2200
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14962



this just gives you some ideas i have no idea how much of a battery wil fit under the hood. i do know the weight forward will turn the wraith into a amazeing wheeling machine

lipo is definatly the way to go. i just recently put a 2s 4000 mah lipo in my air radio.

the only downfall to turnigy batteries is youl have to solder on your own connector or buy an adapter to make the connectors that come on them work. solder is no big deal in the rc hobby but when starting out it seems to be a big task.

IMG_20130112_200513_949-1.jpg
 
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biggest lipo ive been able to fit is a 5000mah hard case in the front of my wraith.


the "c" rating is how much current your pack can sustain..
example if you have a power hungry system you need a high "c" rating
50c or greater..i think one of my packs is a 70-90c rating.
anything @30-40c will be fine for most rigs.


your mah# is your run time or "gas tank"..the bigger the mah # the longer the runtime.

hard case offers better protection than a soft pack obviously.
some racing groups require you to run hard cases.

*note..lipos can be over discharged..*
min discharge voltage per cell is 3v
ie..3s lipo 11.1v min discharge is 9v
if your esc doesnt have a lvc = low voltage cutoff
check your voltage after 10min of running to get an idea of how much juice your pulling
and to keep tabs on battery pack.
once you've done it enough you'll get an idea of how
long you can run your rig before hitting lvc.

if your esc does have a built in lvc..it will act like it lost power for a second
thats your esc telling you hey,the battery is going down.


most chargers have the option to charge with 12v car battery or wall plugin. either way is fine.

ive bought exspensive packs and cheap packs...
its luck of the draw and who builds them.
ive bought high dollar thunderpower packs
and cheap nanotech turnigy packs..
and right now im running turnigy packs and gens ace packs.

i would highly suggest getting a "watts up meter"
its a voltage checker/test meter. you can hook it up inline with your battery and system and you can see just what load is being put on your rig,thus being able to determine what runtimes your looking at.

hope this helps
 
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if foun d trial and error is best to determine run times drive alittle then charge alittle and read the mah put back into the pack. ive also been seing that on cars steady run time myght be 20 minutes or 40 minutes depending on driving style or if the rig is actualy running. when in doubt set lvc high and pull the pack and start charging.

it recmomend at minumum a decent 5amp computer charger so you can get info from your packs. you need to be able to read how many mah you put back into the pack cell voltage and be able to balance.

the turnigy 200watt charger i use is a 10amp charger and chargers everything from my glow igniters to 6s batteries it cost me 38 buck about 3 years ago. only downfall is it doesnt plug into the wall. i converted a free computer power supply into charger power supply so i can charge at home. its an awesome charger

ive been eyeing this charger
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=21858

i didnt a decent 5amp that would plug in the wall from hobbyking
 
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I run hard packs ever since I watched a buddy have a bad roll and land on a soft pack a start a lipo fire. and since the batt will act as the back of your fender wall I would suggest a hard pack.

as far as my lipo I run a CRC 6100Mah and it fits with room in the front of my wraith
 
i seen that some lipos say 2s2p or 2s1p what is the diffence and what does the 1p or 2p mean

thats how there wired..

I should point out you may run across packs or cells hooked up in parallel to increase the capacity. This is indicated by a number followed by a "P". Example: 2S2P would indicate two, two celled series packs hooked up in parallel to double the capacity (2S2P is actually a very popular configuration in LiPo receiver packs).



a good read here..
Understanding RC LiPo Batteries
 
ok so a 2s2p 30c 5000mah 7.4v battery would be

A. 60c 10000mah 14.8v

B. 60c 10000mah 7.4v

C. 60c 5000mah 7.4v

D. 30c 10000mah 14.8v

E. 30c 10000mah 7.4v

F. 30c 10000mah 7.4v

you get the idea all that says it what you said it ups the capity doesnt say how or if it does im not seeing or understanding how
 
no,you misunderstood..

this spec..2s1p or 2s2p is how the pack is built internally.




this is for externally hooking them in series or parallel
say we have 2- 2s 5000mah lipo's

2- 2s lipo's hooked in series doubles the voltage..making it 14.8 still has 5000mah
2- 2s lipo's hooked up in parallel makes it 10,000mah still has 7.4v
 
so a battery that is 2s2p 5000mah 7.4v has 2 cells that are 2500mah each and that makes it 5000mah since that is whats listed or is it 10000mah even tho the battery says is 5000mah?
 
I tried ordering from HobbyKing a few weeks ago. Nightmare. Long story short, I will never try and order fromt hem again. And I am not alone.
Try HobbyPartz. They're in the US. Few more bucks. But you'll get you batteries in less than 6 weeks, the right ones AND you wont have to send them a picture of your credit card.

I picked up a Hobby People 4000Mah the other day. So far so good. Havent tried to see what kind of time I can get out of it. Hour and a half is the longest crawl I've gone on so far. I'm going with something smaller next time. Smaller size, lighter and less expensive.
I'l like to know what size 2s batteries guys are using for crawling that get at least an hour runtime.
 
hobbyking hasnt done me wrong and ive probly spent over a grand there and have been getting batteries in 2-3 days from the usware house. even bought a few align clone helicopters that turned out pretty awesome.

i have an account with them and have stuff orderd in minutes and here in just a few days super easy. and hobbyking sends email reports all along the way of whats going on. i try to keep things simple and buy from the uswarehouse but have orderd from overseas when i wasnt in a hurry and couldnt afford not to buy from them
 
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