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What hex drivers you using?

Usualy when I strip a screw its because I didn't clean the dirt out of it. But I do use nice mip drivers. Also get some blue gel threadlocker for screws that like to back out. Works great on aluminum axles.

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Picked up the MIP drivers ........ wow very nice worth the $$, not seen it mentioned , might have. Want to point out and note the most impressive thing about them, I see. The hex is not ground flat on the bottom. It has a bit of a concave cut, what is so good about that? It allows the hex to bottom out into the head of the fasteners.

Pep
 
Not by ANY means bashing MIP. They are my current hex drivers and the first/only ones I recommend. Using my 1.5mm driver to snug the grub screw on my TRX4 wheel hexes and the tip snapped off clean. Luckily I had my old Integy (lol) to finish what I was doing. I know, little bitty tip, but maybe it was hardened too much making it a little brittle or not hardened enough. Maybe as I age I have a harder time gauging my unparalleled power. I will replace it with another MIP next time I hit the local track but lucky I had my older lesser quality stuff stashed away even if my deteriorating brain needed some extra time remembering where I put them. Tip of the day, head trauma and solder/chemical fumes are not your brain’s friend. I have no clue what I just said so have a great Sunday fellow members!
 
I'm mainly a Hudy/ MIP user but I picked up a Serpent 1.5 hex driver a few weeks ago. So far I'm very impressed... long shaft length, seemingly quality steel blank, precise fit, very comfortable lightweight aluminum handle with a decent amount of "grip". Very happy with this one so far and I may eventually pick up a couple more to add to my bench.
 
I learned about this Traxxas 8710 set during one of Harley's build videos. It's an extensive "speed tip" set that includes both flat end and ball end hex drivers as well as nut driver tips and these all can be used in your drill or 1/4" hex driver. The set also comes with a handle so it would be perfect for the bench or backpack for trail runs. If I didn't already have most of these I would certainly consider it. It retails for $159.99, but it can be found on eBay for $129.99. I think it's a great looking set for a new RC user or somebody looking to upgrade their tools. I'm honestly still tempted to grab a set for myself.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Traxxas-8710-Speed-Bit-Master-Set-Hex-and-Nut-Driver-13-piece/392381131702

8710-combo-01_m.jpg
 
I am using these Dynamite hardened steel hex drivers right now as I wore out a set of MIP's after 5 years. These dynamites are just as good as the MIP's. The tips fit tight, and there is no slop. The handles are a little smaller than the MIP's, but the Dynamites are easier to turn with one hand.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynami...3hxJhDHKMV2wOmBNhykW6kEIaFthFVkBoCDp8QAvD_BwE

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I started out with the Axial AX20008 set that came with my SCX10 Honcho.



I after a couple of kits, I upgraded to a mix of EDS and Hudy hex tools. They both work great and so far no worn or broken tips. ( 8 years so far)


The handles in the Axial set are actually pretty comfortable and they fit the Hudy replacement tips. So that set had the tips upgraded and is used for the 3D printer.
 
I have EMS, RC4WD, MIP and some cheap Hex and they all have their pros and cons. The MIPs are AWESOME but the shafts are a bit too short for me. (Thats what she said) The RC4WDs and EMS are great as well, but the shafts are a bit too long (Not what she said) but are great for those hard to reach place. MIPs are my main go to though..
 
Do the MIP tools have any warranty? Just wondering because if the snap-on tools have a lifetime warranty and priced similar that seems like it might be better deal.

Anyone know how much the Snap-on tools cost? If not I will have to try to catch the tool truck the next time it is here at work.
 
I am using these Dynamite hardened steel hex drivers right now as I wore out a set of MIP's after 5 years. These dynamites are just as good as the MIP's. The tips fit tight, and there is no slop. The handles are a little smaller than the MIP's, but the Dynamites are easier to turn with one hand.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/dynami...3hxJhDHKMV2wOmBNhykW6kEIaFthFVkBoCDp8QAvD_BwE

The Dynamite set you linked to is nice. The black and red handled Dynamite drivers are garbage because they aren't hardened.


Do the MIP tools have any warranty? Just wondering because if the snap-on tools have a lifetime warranty and priced similar that seems like it might be better deal.

Anyone know how much the Snap-on tools cost? If not I will have to try to catch the tool truck the next time it is here at work.

Do Snap-On bits have the same tolerances as MIP tools? MIP tips fit TIGHT into screws which is what you want.
 
Do the MIP tools have any warranty? Just wondering because if the snap-on tools have a lifetime warranty and priced similar that seems like it might be better deal.

You used to be able to sent them back to MIP and they would regrind the tips for you, not sure if that is still the case.

No idea what the Snap on set runs (I assume it is a lot) but most reviews I have read are not impressed with the fit or longevity of the Snap on drivers in the small sizes we need for RC. Getting a poorly fitting wrench replaced with another poorly fitting wrench forever isn't a good deal.
 
After putting my Bomber together completely by hand, I broke down and bought a power driver. It's SO much better, and as long as you're not a moron, you won't strip screws. My first power driver didn't have any kind of a clutch, but you could hear it when the screw was getting tight, so you knew when to get off the button. My new driver has a clutch, but even on the lowest setting, I tend to let go before it engages.

Now if you decide to use a 20v hammer drill instead of a low power hand held, then yeah, you might strip holes, but that's where the moron part comes into play.
 
You gotta be smarter than the tool. I always use power tools when building RC's.
I always use power tools when building RC's as well. So much quicker! I have a cheap little $20 Skil 4 volt driver with no clutch. I just built a complete trx4 Sport with it. ( this is actually the fourth kit I've built with it) I just let go of the trigger a mm or two before it's tight and hand tighten it the rest of the way. Didn't strip one screw. Gotta be smarter than the tool.

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I've been using MIP wrenches so long the company that maufacured them was called Thorpe. We're talking 40 years of flawless RC performance most have original tips. I know they look old school but the durability is amazing and unmatched IMO.


Roger that, X2! 8)

Edit: I still have an old 0.050" Thorpe Dirt Burners driver from racing buggy pinion days! )
 
I ended up getting a set of MIP metric hex drivers this last week. They are really nice. Maybe could be kicked up a notch if they had a little nicer handle but overall definitely worth the money.
 
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