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XR10 Mod for AX10 Axles Parts List

A tip. I first built my conversion axle using the XR plastic pieces I had laying around. C-hub caused no problems, but once assembled the steering angle was crap because the knuckle twin-arm hit the housing. It was worse than my AX10 steering. So if you're doing this for better steering, plan on using the VP knuckles. The Wraith VP piece can be made to give more angle than the XR10 VP piece, but they're both way better than the XR plastic.

Maxwedge, I would think there would be some width variation depending on how you assemble the parts and how you configure the steering. I wouldn't buy a pricey tie-rod until everything is assembled and measured. I used the delrin splined tubes and had no issue with fit. I know that doesn't help you.
 
Okay i ordered 2 sets of the longer Beef tubes last week, one for my shafty and one for my C3. I am very used to AX10 axles but new to XR10 parts, and have a few questions.

First, I'm wondering if the width of the new upgraded axles is the same as stock XR10's, so that I can use a VP tierod - Axial XR-10 bent titanium tie rod

Second question(s) is about the fittment of the c hubs. From what I read the stock plastic hubs are the only ones that fit the steel beeftubes snugly, but who wants to use cheepo plastics after doing a pricey upgrade like this? So do any of the aluminum hubs fit "well" without shimming (the brass 17/32" x .030 tube fix) ? Why dont the vendors machine them a hair wider to solve this?

The vp tierod should work just fine but measuring first is always a good plan. As far as c hubs go the axial aluminum ones fit just like the plastics but the vp stuff is better in my opinion. I think the vendor made them that way so that they would accommodate everyone's choice of c-hub even if you have to shim them.
 
For reference:

Creation Fab Premium wide rear tubes do NOT work well with XR10 short side axle shafts. The axle tangs are too short and won't allow for enough locker engagement.

Lockers tested were :
Freakstuff Stainless Steel (styled exactly like the stock ax10 green locker)
Highland Crawler Aluminum clamp-style locker

The best fix for this would be to run custom shafts with longer tangs from CreeperBob or not run this setup at all. It's the only axle that allows for enough locker engagement without having to trim and cut down the long side XR10 shaft which I don't recommend. Doing that weakens the shaft and could allow for a great amount of axle slop depending on which locker you run.
 
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Creation fab wide tubes with ax-10 lockouts and wheely king straight axles work great together, full tang engagement in my RCP lockers. Running on my FOFF rig, castle 5700 kv 3 cell and no problems."thumbsup"
 
Also I have the older version of the creation fab tubes and they work well. I was at crawlapalooza when helhedded had problems with the new ones and I must say 3wd doesn't always work.
 
Are people using wraith inners up front? just wondering where the wraith has a part in this.

When I first read your post, I didn't realize you were talking about the rear shafts. I thought you were talking about the front shafts which are both the same length. When you starting mentioning short side and long side, I got confused. My screwup.
 
I just finished doing this mod using stock width splined beef tubes with VP XR10 C hubs and knuckles. What is everyone doing for a tie rod? I'm wondering if a wraith bent will work cuz it's gonna have to be pretty long with a bend it looks like.
Bones
 
I just finished doing this mod using stock width splined beef tubes with VP XR10 C hubs and knuckles. What is everyone doing for a tie rod? I'm wondering if a wraith bent will work cuz it's gonna have to be pretty long with a bend it looks like.
Bones

I made my own beef tubes and used VP knuckles and strc c hubs with axial zero ackerman arms behind the axel and the stock VP steering arm out front. The tie rod has 4 bends in it to clear the shocks, diff etc. I made it from 1/4" brake line, 8/32 all thread and revo ends.
 
I have a buddy with a wraith, it has a chaotic crawlers TI bent tie rod. Im going to see if it will work and let you know. I think it might cuz the wraith is alot wider.
Bones
 
So I could just get the Axial XR 10 Stage 1 kit and save a little money from Vanquish as far as knckles, Cs and lockouts go ?
 
Thought i would build a set of 2.2s axels not much talk just pics.
Frist the parts:shock:




Bevel gear set 36-14 $27.99
Bevel gear set 43-13 $27.99
Axle housing x2 $23.98
Fast Eddy bearings $18.00
Rear axle x2 $37.98 use long side.
XRfront axle $39.99
Flange pipe $4.99
VP lockers x2 $63.68
VP Wraith c-hub $41.99
VP Wraith knuckles $36.99
VP rear lockouts $29.99
Long Beeftubes x2 $52.00
Total $405.57:shock:
Here we go first grind of the bearing race on all four housings, all so the stock nub on the outside of housing


Then put the long beef tube in place.

Then for the rear put your axle housing together using the ring from beef tubes, i used a old set of lockout for a drill guide,also drill a set hole inbetween the shock mount.

Then tap out your holes to 3mm.

Mount with 6mm long hardware

Bolt avery togethere and your done.

Repeat for the front.
 
Pictures say a 1'000 words....thanks for those of us that are build challenged...this is nice"thumbsup"
 
Actually, YES. I want Vanquish parts and to buy them separate is $130 and the stage 1 kit is $99, so I save $31
on the Cs, knuckles and lockouts

Thought you were saying you were going to save money by buying the axial brand stage 1 kit over the vanquish one. My bad!
 
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