'98 F150 SVT w/full pan, rails and fenders

[sweli]

Hit the styrene tunnel a little more with IC glue to make sure it wasn't moving.

Now covered the expanded CC01 chassis with Black Krylon Fusion, top and bottom.

[sweli]

Put the rear axle back on it. Set the lid on with the aluminum wheels and Trailbusters.
Definitely needed to trim the fenders. Front went well, but as I was triming the rear I realized I was going to have the front half of the fender flare remain while I lost the rear.
I'll have to play more later after I get the front axle on.
The front axle will put the wheels/tires forward of the center of the well, but good for inclines.

[sweli]

Little Acetal cutting on the mill.

Acts as a skid, servo mount, servo arm guard, ties the chassis rails together and will eventually hold the bumper.

Wanted to get the skid angle a little steeper, but the way I brought the servo main shaft through an opening with the arm mounted on the bottom, I couldn't. A bit of material is removed in the middle of the bottom for the servo arm to get full swing.
I wanted to do this, because on my MOG, the servo arm takes a huge amount of impacts and rash.

Top: (servo shaft fits down through squared-off hole)


Bottom: (relieved area for servo arm[off center])


Side:



This pics shows how the rails slide into slots in the Acetal. One 3mm screw through the Acetal, then rail, then Acetal again. A second screw is behind the slot on each side as well.
Hard to see it, but I ran a ball nose bit along the front of it, instead of bringing it to a point. This will allow a nice fit for a 3/8 Delrin rod bumper.

[sweli]

Little more progress, few more pics.

Front Servo mounted up. Mounts to and protected by the skid.
Ran the ball nose mill down the front edge and then heated some 3/8" Delrin rod to put a bend back and up on each side of the skid.

Top/Front angled view:


Side View:


Bottom View (the servo arm has some protection tucked in):

[sweli]

Side View showing Novak 55T, Novak Rooster Crawler Ed., 2s2p 900mah Lipos=1800mah and higher C rating. BEC and Rx are in the (hopefully) water tight project box.



Rear View shows project box flush with fenders so semi-dropped bed on the body can be fairly low. Rear frame cross member got two hitches mounted up. One on the member, and one on a piece of keyway stock to look like a receiver hitch.
Antenna comes back out of the project box and zig-zags up a pc of PET mounted to the top of the R2 and extends up, inside the body cab.



30amp, small toggle mounted through the fender wall so you can turn everything off without removing the body.
I have 3 small kids who all love to run the rigs, so easy on/off is great to have.

[sweli]

Trimmed the front bumper almost all the way off, which lest is sit down on the 3/8 delrin bumper I attached to the skid.

Trimmed the fenders so the Trail busters can compress up into them. Though the current shocks stop them 1/4" shy of rubbing.
Added some foam rubber skirts around the fenders. Not sure how it will hold up to rock rash, but can be removed with some goo-gone if necessary. They look decent for now.

Pics:

[sweli]

Flex poses:

[blukon98]

I like it, are you gonna paint it?

[sweli]

Originally Posted by blukon98

I like it, are you gonna paint it?

Thx blukon98!

I prob will decide on a color, but wait to paint it this winter. Anxious to put a few packs through it this fall yet.
I want to see how the flare material wears on the rocks. It'll take some goo-gone or other to get them off.

What color do you think?

[blukon98]

Idk, I like the red but maybe like a fire engine red instead of metallic. It'd look more like the f-150 lightening trucks that were that body style. Maybe sand down the netting on the windows and hit them with some gloss black... Idk just an idea

[sweli]

Yeah, you might be right on the SVT colors.
I found this site that shows some of them.
http://gtcarlot.com/vehicle-archives...Lightning.html

Hmmm..... is Sonic Blue too loud?
Dark Shadow Grey?
Red, black or white and that is about it. Black is out because of the chassis color.

The "Baja" has to go on the windshield.
If I change it over to a front gearbox into a transfer case, I could pull the black glass out of it and maybe use it as the mold to vac-form some clear polycarb.
Always wanted to try home-brewed vac forming.

If the foam rubber flares do not last well, I was considering some tube work up and over the fenders, tying into some sliders on the side, just under the body edge. Tie it all into the chassis, not the body.

[sweli]

Got it out on some rocks today at a GTG (too busy to get pics).

The hitch really held it up some and the Trailbusters lived up to their name (I guess). They are really not for the rocks at all. I'll have to play with some others shoes under it and then try and tune it in.

The mounting point for the longer shocks on the rear axle (lower through-screw of the straight adapter) was a sticky point too.

[sweli]

The scale items in the bed are already seen in some of the pics above.
I was being lazy for now and not cutting and refilling some of the holes and odd shapes in the bed, so all the scale items are in there to cover those different details.

Let there be light
Orange sidemarker, Large white low beam, small blue high beam.


Red tail lights


Construction:

• Removed the Nikko body lens'.
  Drill through.
  Painted a Bic pen body black, cut to length, shaped to fit angle of inside body face.
  Cut short pc of styrene tube and glued a few mm inside of pen tube.
  5mm LED fits inside styrene tube ring, with outer flange inside pen body.
  Inline resistors to drop 6v from Novak Rooster Fan output.
  Micro Deans as a quick disconnect.
  Glued the lens' back in place.
  A little black plastic-dip spray to block light bleed.

[blukon98]

It's definitely coming along the lights added a lot!

[sweli]

Thx blukon98!

I need to cleanup the lid a little. Still have not decided if the foam-rubber flares are going to make the grade or not. Someone suggested spraying them with my black Plasti-dip to see if it would toughen them up any.
Have not decided on a front stinger yet.
Going to try my 1.9 RokLox on here, but I am guessing they may be too big.
Really want a set of the 80mm TrueScale shocks from RC4WD.
Since I could not leave the disconnect on the R2D gearbox, not sure what I will be doing with the third channel. I have a VERY bright LED light strip from work that I may mount on a rollbar that I will create. Third switch would turn them on for a moment to blind any scale competition I might be up against (LOL).

[bayareaaxial]

pretty slick ideas you have there looks great

[sweli]

Are 1.9 RokLox overkill on this size rig? A bit towards a monster truck?

Disclaimer, the UFO wheels that the RokLox are on have a wider offset, and are a wider wheel in general.



Front view, Trailbusters on drivers side.


Top view, Trailbusters on drivers side.

[muddbogger]

i would like to see it on some 1.55s i think it would look more scale since that is a small body.Plus those window nets have to go really takes away from the scale look

[sweli]

Needed a rear bumper, as the body bumper was getting beat on.

Solid Delrin modeled loosely after a Western.
Prob came out a bit taller.
Gave it some lead in angle to act as a backup skid.
Left it long on the edges for future tie in of some side body tubework.

Rear lights took a beating this winter, so new lens' will get fabbed soon.

[sweli]

Made some sliders out of some ABS strips I had. Little soft - I'll see how they hold up.
Mounted to the stock CC01 points.

Hope to run some side tube work over the fenders from rear bumper and tie into the sliders.

Look a little crooked, but its the body that sits higher in the rear. Dropbed is #239 on the 'to-do' list.






They stick out just enough to offer some side body guarding.