'98 F150 SVT w/full pan, rails and fenders

[sweli]

The Nikko F150 flare side has been taking a beating.
Plus, I stretched the WB from the 9.5 in the build, to 10.5. Most of this was trimming the rear fender, which leaves a huge tire opening.

So it was time for a lower Exo to protect the body and fill in a little of the rear wells.

[sweli]

It bolts to the rear bumper center and ends, the front frame servo mount, and the side slider trays.
The triple side rods are covering the original well openings.
Inverted V on lower front will serve as a future winch lead.

All stainless steel.

The body still comes on/off as usual for quick access.

[thundaar]

i like the lower exo, mabey you could incorperate some light guards to help keep those tail lights safe

[sweli]

Thx thundaar!

Original plan did not have the hoops around the back at all. Maybe a second lower rod closer to the light.
The original lens' broke off a while ago. The one in the pic is a lens from an automotive map light that I heated and curved/cut to fit.

I wish I could polish the exo to a shine, but lots of time for what? This was media blasted at work after welds were complete. Just toooo easy to do it and be done.

[sweli]

Continuing to tune this rig in. When I built it I used mostly parts I had on the bench.
Well I got a used Disrupter Tcase and added an HPI GRU to drive that.

WOW did that do wonders for the COG!!

- The motor was sitting high center, on an R2 gearbox turned on end. Now it is right up, 1/4" above the front axle.
- Stainless 16ga formed into a mount.
- Cut the skid plate I had under the R2, in half, and added new delrin rails to hold the Tcase and front lower links.
- Motor to Tcase shaft is two sizes of CEN Racing, boat CVDs. Only bummer is that they are not servicable.

Wow, the HP GRU is smooth compared to the R2.

[sweli]

I had fabbed the front stinger a while back thinking I would throw a winch in this rig. Finally did.
I would have to do a bit of a tear up to put the winch in and go with clear glass and an interior. The winch won, without the tearup for now.

I have winch cable, but am staying with cord for now. I have kids that use my rigs and I want them to keep all their digits in tact.

Winch comes out through the front stinger rod, below the bumper.
No fairlead necessary, as the tube and rod do a fine job of it.


The cord is run through a tube that runs through the skid, under the servo, out the back between the motor and fender wall, past the gearbox and up into a mount arm.


Waterproofed 645 Hitec for now.