My Class 1 Raptor build w/ IFS

[I.D.10.T]

I'm going to try and build this body into a C1 style truck. It will be set lower, more like that of what I've seen some call a C0. I'm going to attempt to put an IFS on the front and leafs on the rear. Other amazing customizations will include removing stickers from the body, putting in a clear windshield, and a full interior. I will probably drag this out for a few months. And my picture activity will all be regulated by photobucket. Right now I can only link one photo per 30 minutes. So let the New Bright Party begin.

Here is the body I'm starting with:


Its almost 9" wide and 12.2" WB and right at 20" bumper to bumper. This should be fun.



Viola - Stickers removed! Now that's a magic trick!



I'll make a parts list and try to get this work without saying to many clean dirty words. aka - snap, fudge, or toot

[nerby149]

That body is awesome, you did a great job removing the stickers, will be watching this build.

"GOD SPEED"

[I.D.10.T]

Originally Posted by nerby149

That body is awesome, you did a great job removing the stickers, will be watching this build.

"GOD SPEED"

It wasn't easy, but I prevailed. I even had two little kids getting into stuff to try and distract me.

My list of parts as of now include the following:
Kodiak steel high clearance chassis rails
Traxxas Slash front diff and A arms
China over/under gear transfer case
Tomahawk tires (which might be too tall)
Blocks of Delrin for sculpting parts aka: C-hubs
Looking for a new photo manager, other than photobucket
More parts to follow: unless I quit

So that is my starting point. The front end is going to have to be first. The rest of the truck will have to built around that point. So here comes a little frustration.

[Xtacy33]

A little frustration makes it all the more fun! Haha I know about the 2 little kids part and the wife which might be more distracting!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[I.D.10.T]

Originally Posted by Xtacy33

A little frustration makes it all the more fun! Haha I know about the 2 little kids part and the wife which might be more distracting!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

I don't have just the two little ones, but six kids in all. They help break their toys and mine. And yes, the wife does seem to require a lot of attention. And listening while mounting tires to bead lock rims does not count as listening. LOL

[Xtacy33]

6! Power to you man! Absolutely right about the listening thing, that doesn't count, I've tried haha. Anyway hope to see some progress when ever you get the time.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[I.D.10.T]

The 1/10 Traxxas Slash front diff is a 37/13. That is great due to the fact that the rear will almost be in sync with the front on ratio. I know that I'll just have to find a rear axle that can be flipped due to most rear axles have the diff gear on the left side too.

So photobucket is limiting me today. I can link one photo today. So a few steps are jumped. Here I've taken a block of delrin to the band saw, a drill and a little dremel action. Thus making a C-hub. The Traxxas alloy knuckle fits in nicely with a articulation allowance for the drive shaft. I took a stock A arm from a Slash and trimmed it down significantly. The two are attached and give some nice movement up and down and the steering of the knuckle is working to far. I know something is going to stop me dead in my tracks somewhere.

I'll get more photos tomorrow. I'm pressed for time today. And my photobucket and phone don't get along at home. Is there some other site besides photobucket that can be used as a host?

[BJoe]

I'm going to have to keep an eye on this one now!

[I.D.10.T]

More photos of the C-hubs and A-arms. I am using the front skid for a Slash 4x4 1/10 to mount the diff up front to the frame.





Those Traxxas C-hubs did not work. The front skid was heated and twisted so that it could attach to the chassis. I also put a locked spool in the front. I forgot to take a photo of that. I'll have to seal up the top of the diff with a delrin plate or a chopped front tower.

[BJoe]

Might look into the Bandit rear arms for the front arms on the truck, they'll be shorter, not sure if they'll short enough, but they should be closer. I'd sell you some of those too, but I no longer have any!

[klampykixx]

Looks like an awesome build but why traxxas and not hpi for front drivetrain? 1/10 touring hpi has same differential gears and similar width

[BJoe]

HPI stuff has been incredibly difficult to get for a while now, like might be going away difficult. At least with Traxxas pieces, he can get stuff fairly easily if something breaks.

[klampykixx]

fair call, ive found HSP to be very similar to HPI(clone?) and uses axial gearing as well. i have personally done this with a couple of my HSP drifters i needed to lock the diff. i used axial HD gear set and locker.

[I.D.10.T]

Originally Posted by klampykixx

fair call, ive found HSP to be very similar to HPI(clone?) and uses axial gearing as well. i have personally done this with a couple of my HSP drifters i needed to lock the diff. i used axial HD gear set and locker.

I did not know of HSP. As for HPI, I was looking for something of one make that I could use all the way through. It's coming along so far, so I don't feel too bad about my choice at this time. But if much more is said, I'll have to go cry me a little river in my man cave🌧 Haha

[klampykixx]

Seems like a good move anyway, subscribed for future updates, get building

[Szczerba]

Can't wait to see more.

[I.D.10.T]

More stuff done. Finally! PB is working as it should for me today. So multiple photos.

I placed a piece of delrin between the frame rails and under to the motor that attach bulkhead to the chassis. So now it is all locked in place. The Dinky gearbox was stolen off of one of my other trucks to see if it would work. I have a Toyzuki unit on the way that will go on either this or the other.








Next, I did the amazing. I used this cylindrical tube that sprayed compressed black paint onto my rails. I left them out in the sun for several hours to help cure it on. I'm sure I could have done a better job cooking and painting, but I'm sure I'm going to scratch up the bottom of this truck too.



Next I had to make some upper links to hold the C-hubs. I didn't have a lot of choices here. This gives me a total of 20mm of up and down movement. I've thought of putting a taller piece of delrin here and dropping the attachment point that would allow for more movement. But then again, this is a stock looking vehicle I'm looking to build.



These trailing/sway bars were needed to keep the C-hubs from rocking from the front to the rear of the truck. There wasn't much play, but I'm sure it would increase as I begin to drive.

[rcjeepbuilder]

Great work on that front suspension.

[Highmark]

That's freakin' cool.

[Gula]

I think you'd be better off with using a hpi rs4 differential and parts. Cheap on ebay, and easy to find!