West & Down 2.2 U4

[altd896]

It also turns out a that with some 5mm drive hubs added (MIP 10136 for Slash for example) the shafts for a Summit MIP 9168 would work in one of these or a Yeti, working range is 6.3-5.3" (160-135mm)
The individual spline bone is MIP 9169, Tower list it as discontinued but is listed in stock at A-main & MIP so probably at others also.

[altd896]

Finally got past my indecision on side panels & paint/graphics & with some free time over Christmas got on with a simple basic panel & straight red because I had it to hand.
Pretty happy with the result in the end.
Then while I had my LockedUp 1.9s & Growlers off my C2 sitting on my bench I had to try them.


Looks a bit odd from other angles because of the width of the ar60s.

But I think this one will stay on the VP 2.2 Methods with the RockBeasts.

[altd896]

Trying to work out how to access the front mounted battery was doing my head in until I finally decided "if it works for a Wraith, it'll work for this" so I went with a hinged hood only difference being obviously this one flips forward not back.


I used more of the plastic cable mounting P clips I've attached some of the interior with.

I'll eventually make a new hood to get rid of the extra holes (though a decal will probably be over them first). Debated using the rear screws, changing to the Rustler battery clips a-la the normal Wraith mod,
even was suggested using magnets, but I actually found with the hood sprung between the V bars of the windscreen it doesn't come open by itself anyway.

So with that sorted was able to hook up some electrics & it's finally moved under it's own power, around my front yard anyway.
The ride height was a little high, but the Pro-Line Pro-spec shocks are very plush with the 2nd option softer springs, I'm not sorry I splurged on those at all.
Still to see how it handles rocks.

Was pretty happy with the 3s speed till I remembered it still only has the Tekin Redline 13.5 2 pole out of my Wraith in it. A job for this week is solder some leads to my Pro4.

[altd896]

Been enjoying buzzing around in our our social U4RC down here & forgotten to update this thread.






Loving the pace of the Tekin PRO4 3300

[altd896]

Pretty happy with how light this rig comes in at with a 3s 2200mah lipo


To save you doing the maths that's 8.24lb on a 8lb minimum weight.

In getting it up & running I hadn't managed to build a second cockpit panel which is less than ideal, don't want electrics visible & the cockpit was just too cramped with the Apache navigator in there.
Fab'd up a piece from lexan, matched the bends in the drivers section & the dash & added an extinguisher just so it had something there.
Then the sticker bag seemed to explode.






I've still got some limit straps here to fit along with a HeyOK KOH control & some GearHead light bars. Got to make some mounts for the lightbars & re-make the roof to take some rear lights, the EXO rear light bar is too wide.
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...Code=KBM-WTHRD
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...de=YEA-YA-0352
https://www.rpphobby.com/ProductDeta...de=HEYKOHBKLED

[altd896]

Another U4RC Australia social race, more great performance from the UCFab Punisher, not so much from the driver, more practice required.







Luckily, checking the rig over the day before & tinkering with fitting the limit straps (which are there purely for appearance, they're too long to function) I found the DLux front truss was broken & I'd missed seeing it before.


So with an off cut of carbon from fitting the spoiler on my 1:1 race car

and a bit of quick/crude dremel work, a makeshift fix was born.


It lasted the day so all good but it's going to need something new to for a premanent fix.

[Wheels7]

Originally Posted by altd896

Another U4RC Australia social race, more great performance from the UCFab Punisher, not so much from the driver, more practice required.







Luckily, checking the rig over the day before & tinkering with fitting the limit straps (which are there purely for appearance, they're too long to function) I found the DLux front truss was broken & I'd missed seeing it before.


So with an off cut of carbon from fitting the spoiler on my 1:1 race car

and a bit of quick/crude dremel work, a makeshift fix was born.


It lasted the day so all good but it's going to need something new to for a premanent fix.

Hey Darrell we need to get you one of the trusses I run on my car. made out of 1/8" G10 instead of carbon. I have yet to see one of these break

[altd896]

One of the other guys down here with the same truss just found his broken similar to mine.

We think it was our last course, we’re using temporary natural terrain courses & we set the course crossing a nice big eroded washout,
looping around & coming back through the washout. It’s over on the right of the pic.





The trap was that even at about 7’ wide there was a section about a 1’ wide in the middle (circled) where if you hit it wrong or too fast the rig nosed in hard on the front axle.
I’m fairly sure I did it 2 weeks ago practicing & the other guy did it over the weekend too.
You’d think hitting rock would be the same but no other parts of our courses did the truck come to a dead stop, the rocks would hit in under the axle & lift the rig, kick the front up.
I think the sudden stop of the front axle transfers a heap of the momentum of the rig through the uppers straight into that part with more force than Erik ever designed it for. The thicker G10 truss should be a good solution.

I think we’ll call it another lesson in course design for us to learn.

[altd896]

Another month, another U4RC Australia race day, this time out in a new location in the state forest to the south east of the Perth. Almost no large rock areas but a very different type of dirt to where we've been the first 3 times.
A nice little change of elevation, a large dirt mound hill & some home made timber rumble strips kept it tricky.

This was my first day out with the spool out of the front end & a lsd style centre in (spider gears & 1mill diff gel) I like the feel of it, much less inclined to push across the corner then snap to loose, no noticeable lack of climbing but we were light on rock at this location.

This is using a GPM alloy diff cup & the Axial AX30390 spider gear set.
I've heard conflicting on which is better, the Axial or HPI gears so I've got HPI gears 86014 as well.
I don't know the alloy cup offers anything significant, my logic was it was less likely to flex & hence gears were likely to live longer.





The UCFab Punisher doing it's thing






After a light shower of rain the rigs picked up a fairly authentic spray of sticky dirt

[altd896]

Just a tip for anyone planning/thinking about at the lsd style centre, depending on what front shafts you've got, I've got the VP VVD V-2 HD set, I had to take a little off the tang of my short side, it hit the cross pin in the centre & stopped the knuckle going all the way on.

[SCREAMER]

Those trailing arms are so nice. I'm still trying to figure out how to get my hands on a set. That's a very nice rig you have there altd. I didn't even know LSDs were available for AR60s.

[binaryterror]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

Those trailing arms are so nice. I'm still trying to figure out how to get my hands on a set. That's a very nice rig you have there altd. I didn't even know LSDs were available for AR60s.

Dlux sells them...

[altd896]

Yeah these are the ones specifically for the UCFab chassis, though I don't know if they're actually different to the Yeti ones, but Dlux has the Yeti length & Wraith length ones in his store

Wraith-Trailing-arms-UCfab

Yeti-Trailing-arms-and-links-UCfab

[altd896]

Originally Posted by SCREAMER

I didn't even know LSDs were available for AR60s.

It's not truely an LSD centre, that would have clutches & springs & stuff, it's just a spider gear diff with really heavy lube in it.
It does behave like a limited slip centre though.
Same set-up as Exo's, Yeti's & 4wd race buggies.

[Sp3cia1-K]

Where did you get the 1mil fluid from? I should try a similar setup in my rig.
I've got 300k in my c1 but is way too loose for the u4.

[altd896]

This is the stuff I've got in.
Mugen Seiki Silicone Differential Oil (1,000,000wt) [MUGB0349] | Maintenance - AMain.com - AMain.com

One of my buddies has this in his Yeti & likes it Traxxas Differential Oil (500,000) [TRA5039] | Maintenance - AMain.com - AMain.com


The 1mill doesn't pour it scoops, its like clear window or bathroom silicone it just doesn't set.
I put the bottom spider in, half filled it, pressed in the cross pin & 2nd gears, topped it off & closed it up.
Used probably a teaspoon out of a bottle the size of a film canister.

[microcrawlers]

how did you keep it all from leaking out when you put it in the axle?

[altd896]

Originally Posted by microcrawlers

how did you keep it all from leaking out when you put it in the axle?

Case has the Axial o-rings in it behind the gears, same as Yeti or Exo (can't recall part # but a manual will tell you)
Haven't got the external o-rings on but could probably run them too.
I little has worked it's way out but not much.
It doesn't come out while assembling, this 1mill stuff is a gel, it's more than thick enough to assemble & drop into the housing & stick axles in without any oozing out.
Don't drop it in & then come back after dinner to put the axles in, some will have come out by then but normal assembly it's fine.

[microcrawlers]

Originally Posted by altd896

Case has the Axial o-rings in it behind the gears, same as Yeti or Exo (can't recall part # but a manual will tell you)
Haven't got the external o-rings on but could probably run them too.
I little has worked it's way out but not much.
It doesn't come out while assembling, this 1mill stuff is a gel, it's more than thick enough to assemble & drop into the housing & stick axles in without any oozing out.
Don't drop it in & then come back after dinner to put the axles in, some will have come out by then but normal assembly it's fine.

thank you for replying. if you are crawling slowly in high grip situations do you notice it slipping at all?

[altd896]

Don't crawl much with that rig, even in the rocky sections of the U4RC courses we're running.
Can definitely see a front wheel unload every now & then but it's not yet posing a problem.