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Thread: HBZ WartHog "Tube Chassis"

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Old 08-16-2008, 10:22 PM   #21
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Did you have any issues with your dig servo hitting the tube that is running right over the top of it? I started building mine tonight and installed the DNA dig on the tranny and mounted it back on the lower skid then mounted up the carbon fiber pieces. When I went to put the tube chassis on the tube shown right above your servo is hitting. I have already removed both of the tabs from that section of the frame. Let me know if you had to do anything else special to get it mounted. I may end up making the servo bracket a little narrower to allow the servo to sit farther from the tube.

The Servo hits a little, but the servo arm does not..... My Dig works great... Make sure you clean off all of the back part of your servo arm.. see pictures and let me know if you have any other questions..Thansk
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:27 PM   #22
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holly cow i can get bigger pictures to post ..... please let me if anyone what to see anything in a larger picture...

Thanks For looking at this thread...

The rig is going though a few changes getting ready for Moab...

Updates will follow here soon
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:30 PM   #23
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holly cow i can get bigger pictures to post ..... please let me if anyone what to see anything in a larger picture...
Cool, I can put the magnifying glass back down
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:31 PM   #24
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that is one killer lookin crawler i want one

WWW.HBZUSA.COM


ALSO ........ RPP HOBBY HAS THEM IN STOCK

http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product...productId=1034
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Old 08-16-2008, 10:32 PM   #25
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Cool, I can put the magnifying glass back down


YEP .......................
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Old 08-16-2008, 11:21 PM   #26
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Thanks for the pictures, that really helps. My arm is not hitting but the servo is. I am going to give it a rest for the night and check it out again tomorrow. I did notice that my kit came with the longer dubro links for the shift arm and with them screwed all the way down the linkage is still a little too long. I will swing by the LHS tomorrow and see if I can grab a set of the short ones. If I have any other questions I will let you know.

Thanks again, Chris
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Old 08-17-2008, 09:58 PM   #27
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Chris I ran into the same issue. I noticed when I removed the tab, the remaining weld was hitting the servo so I took the Dremel to it. It still hit a tiny a bit so I took a little bit more out and it fits perfect now. Here is what it looks like.




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Old 08-18-2008, 05:23 AM   #28
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Yup, that is exactly where mine was hitting. I had already sanded the spot welds flat but it was still hitting the tube so I gave it a little tweek and it popped right in. Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 08-18-2008, 06:43 AM   #29
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holly cow i can get bigger pictures to post ..... please let me if anyone what to see anything in a larger picture...

Thanks For looking at this thread...

The rig is going though a few changes getting ready for Moab...

Updates will follow here soon
It will never work
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Old 08-18-2008, 02:00 PM   #30
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those beadlocks look killer. great rig love the theme
Good job squesing that dig in there.
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:00 PM   #31
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Aerospace Tolerances!
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:11 PM   #32
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I was looking at picking up one of the pro comp ones and after seeing you VF Dig in there I had a question that might be a little dumb. I have never had a tuber in the past so... What are those tabs for if all you do it cut them off to get the dig in? Every good comp rig has a dig so if they are not necessarry then why did HBZ weld them in there?
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Old 08-18-2008, 10:08 PM   #33
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The tabs were put in there in case you wanted to run the stock battery plate. Some people may want to run it but most will end up at least cutting out the 2 tabs to mount a dig and use the 2 front tabs to mount their electronics to.

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I was looking at picking up one of the pro comp ones and after seeing you VF Dig in there I had a question that might be a little dumb. I have never had a tuber in the past so... What are those tabs for if all you do it cut them off to get the dig in? Every good comp rig has a dig so if they are not necessarry then why did HBZ weld them in there?
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:03 PM   #34
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Now that you said that, I think I sorta read that somewhere here. I just did not realize that they were talking about the same two tabs. thanks for the clarification.
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Old 08-18-2008, 11:32 PM   #35
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Its just 1 tab I removed. Not 2.

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Old 08-19-2008, 06:15 AM   #36
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I removed both, but may end up tacking the other back in. That looks like the perfect place for my rx.
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Old 08-28-2008, 06:08 AM   #37
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Nice kit ,it caught my eye a few months ago.I'm glad i found this post to learn more about it.
Any reason that your lower links are still mounted outside the chassis?
Do ya think the carbon fiber will stand up to the abuse of rock rash and being that it connects the the whole thing together could it crack if it took a 15ft fall off a rock face for example?
Most of the stuff we climb is steep and a rock run can go up over 150ft so if a rig flips it can be real extreme and a broken chassis is the last thing ya want.
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Old 08-28-2008, 09:55 AM   #38
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I'm currently trying to get a delrin to replace the CF side plates...finally got my dig, and before I could even put it in...my outdrive post snapped now I need to get steel gears from RC4WD or does anyone recommend something better to withstand a cobolt 7T...If I upgrade to steel tranny gears...I would need to put a slipper clutch...have you had this kind of problem "EYE"?
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:44 AM   #39
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Nice kit ,it caught my eye a few months ago.I'm glad i found this post to learn more about it.
Any reason that your lower links are still mounted outside the chassis?
Do ya think the carbon fiber will stand up to the abuse of rock rash and being that it connects the the whole thing together could it crack if it took a 15ft fall off a rock face for example?
Most of the stuff we climb is steep and a rock run can go up over 150ft so if a rig flips it can be real extreme and a broken chassis is the last thing ya want.
The CF holds up much better if you fine sand it, and then seal the edges with thin CA glue. I did mine all the way around, not just on the lower portion. The weak point is at the corners where the lower links bolt up, but I think it will take some time for it to wear fully, and this area could be braced up if need be. I belive you can purchase plates from HBZ, but I would check with them directly on that.

Most of us at some point will hit that insane vert, or crazy hard line, and carnage is just part of it. Any rig falling from that kind of height is going to incur some damage...most of the time. The Warthog chassis itself is very stout and rigid, and I think that it will hold up very well under most roll over and drop conditions.

As a side note to that, I rolled my Hustler Super down a nearly vertical wall last season, and only tweaked the rear side tube; 10 second fix, but on another day, it could have been worse. It's up to the drivers to decide if they want to take the challenge and the glory, or pay the price for trying.
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Old 08-28-2008, 10:55 AM   #40
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I seen this rig at the Battle Grounds comp (SICK AZZ).. Aaron, you shouldnt lie to the people and say you built it, We all know you bought (COUGH) it like that....LMAO
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