RCCrawler Forums

ptbrc1 · 04-17-2009, 10:48 PM

im thinking about doing one with a tlt but now i have to go find the part, oh well thats half the fun

ae racer · 05-28-2009, 09:07 AM

hey so what is the wb on your truck? the driveline angles look way steap.

Esteban86K5 · 05-28-2009, 10:42 AM

I did mine a little different so that i can mount my servo with my saddle packs.
So here is what I have so far. I left the plastic with the ribs up. I feel I get a better connection at the axles with it that way. I will probably have to make some sort of plate for the tranny but it should still be OK. I did add a little more material to the front axle mount as some of mt local crawler buddies recommended. I am going to run the rear the way it is to see how it works. I have lock to lock steering on both axles so I am pleased with that and it currently sits at 12.75" Wheelbase.

I cut the holes out for the drive shafts, but under hard articulation, the drive shafts still rub the sides. Is anyone else having this problem too?

JoeMotor · 05-28-2009, 04:12 PM

You can widen the drive line holes, but try to leave the outer rib. Post some pics with everything mounted!

Esteban86K5 · 05-28-2009, 04:42 PM

The driveline holes are as wide as I could make them. You can see in the pics below that the tranny is centered and with just a little flexing, the shaft rubs the side.:-(

rentstdi · 05-28-2009, 06:12 PM

Most people are not running the drive shaft like you are. The have the skinny side on top to give them an additional clearance. You might have to modify somemore to keep the length of driveshaft you need.

calikingcrawler · 05-28-2009, 07:51 PM

Hey Esteban, I put my drivelines in and they rub on one side but not the other. Plenty of flex tho on the side that doesn't rub to get me by. I think it's just the nature of the beast. Damn shafts only have 1/4" of one in the other. NEED to fix that.
My WB is 12 3/8".

romulus22 · 05-28-2009, 07:57 PM

mine do the same. i figure the stockers wont last too long. i planned on just upgrading to some MIP's eventually

Esteban86K5 · 05-28-2009, 08:15 PM

Well I reworked it a bit. I started with a new piece and flipped it over and re-drilled all the holes. It seems a little stiffer and the shafts don't rub as bad now. I'll get some pics up when I am done. I am about to go back out to cut the second driveshaft hole.

JoeMotor · 05-28-2009, 09:07 PM

The problem is trying to mount the chassis upside down. Right side up, you can put the tranny screws in the rod slot, and the rod will still snap into the slot over the screws. Center the tranny outputs on the chassis, or move it just a CH to the side opposite the rod slot. If it does rub it won't hurt anything. Mine rubs at around 40* articulation too. Definitely leave your drivelines like they are (FMF), stronger that way.

Hard to see, but here's mine. Remember I'm running TLTs.

JoeMotor · 05-28-2009, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by calikingcrawler

Damn shafts only have 1/4" of one in the other. NEED to fix that.

You need to buy the Traxxas shaft pro pack and make your own shafts.

calikingcrawler · 05-28-2009, 09:42 PM

I finally got to drive it!!!! I'll post more info and pics in our thread.

Esteban86K5 · 05-28-2009, 10:34 PM

Mine is all done except the body post and body.

I bent the aluminum axle plate I made to correct the driveline angle a little and to get the pinion up a little more so it won't get hung up as much.

MassCrawler · 05-29-2009, 11:29 AM

I built up one of my own. ill post up some pics as soon as my cam returns.

Esteban86K5 · 05-29-2009, 11:31 AM

Well I put a battery pack through it this morning and all I can say is WOW!!! This thing is pretty capable.

A couple of things I will need to dial in.

First the body is mounted with 4 body posts. This restricts the chassis from flexing. SO I was carrying a tire in the air WAY too much and was denied some lines because of it.

Second is the aluminum plates will need to be made of thicker aluminum or steel. I had a pretty good tumble that with my other chassis I would have kicked over and kept crawling. With this one I noticed no longer had rear wheel drive. Flipping it over I found that the rear plate had bent and the shaft pulled out. I was able to bend it back and kept crawling but I know if it keeps happening the aluminum will eventually crack.

Those are the only things I found that i need to fix. Pretty minor really.

I was only able to snap some pics with my phone. so here they are.

MassCrawler · 05-29-2009, 12:08 PM

looks good mang, Im digging the grave digger body!!

calikingcrawler · 05-29-2009, 01:26 PM

got the body on mine!!

Barrows · 06-02-2009, 11:01 AM

thanks for the idea!

username · 08-11-2009, 03:10 AM

anybody tried this a bit longer to go super size?

JoeMotor · 08-19-2009, 09:26 PM

I've been running two rods in mine instead of one. No noticable change in articulation or stiffness, and the plastic doesn't bend and crack near as quickly. Still running it this way 3 months later. I'm using carbon fiber tube for the rods. It's really stiff at first. The carbon grabs the plastic alot more than aluminum or steel. But it loosens up after awhile and runs great.

05-28-2009, 09:07 PM	#110
JoeMotor Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: SE Oklahoma Posts: 150	The problem is trying to mount the chassis upside down. Right side up, you can put the tranny screws in the rod slot, and the rod will still snap into the slot over the screws. Center the tranny outputs on the chassis, or move it just a CH to the side opposite the rod slot. If it does rub it won't hurt anything. Mine rubs at around 40* articulation too. Definitely leave your drivelines like they are (FMF), stronger that way. Hard to see, but here's mine. Remember I'm running TLTs. Attached Images

04-17-2009, 10:48 PM	#101
ptbrc1 Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: philadelphia Posts: 29	im thinking about doing one with a tlt but now i have to go find the part, oh well thats half the fun

05-28-2009, 09:07 AM	#102
ae racer Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 688	hey so what is the wb on your truck? the driveline angles look way steap.

05-28-2009, 10:42 AM	#103
Esteban86K5 Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 242	I did mine a little different so that i can mount my servo with my saddle packs. So here is what I have so far. I left the plastic with the ribs up. I feel I get a better connection at the axles with it that way. I will probably have to make some sort of plate for the tranny but it should still be OK. I did add a little more material to the front axle mount as some of mt local crawler buddies recommended. I am going to run the rear the way it is to see how it works. I have lock to lock steering on both axles so I am pleased with that and it currently sits at 12.75" Wheelbase. I cut the holes out for the drive shafts, but under hard articulation, the drive shafts still rub the sides. Is anyone else having this problem too?

05-28-2009, 04:12 PM	#104
JoeMotor Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: SE Oklahoma Posts: 150	You can widen the drive line holes, but try to leave the outer rib. Post some pics with everything mounted!

05-28-2009, 04:42 PM	#105
Esteban86K5 Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 242	The driveline holes are as wide as I could make them. You can see in the pics below that the tranny is centered and with just a little flexing, the shaft rubs the side.:-(

05-28-2009, 06:12 PM	#106
rentstdi Pebble Pounder Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: vaca, nor cal Posts: 134	Most people are not running the drive shaft like you are. The have the skinny side on top to give them an additional clearance. You might have to modify somemore to keep the length of driveshaft you need.

05-28-2009, 07:51 PM	#107
calikingcrawler RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Crawlifornia Posts: 1,941	Hey Esteban, I put my drivelines in and they rub on one side but not the other. Plenty of flex tho on the side that doesn't rub to get me by. I think it's just the nature of the beast. Damn shafts only have 1/4" of one in the other. NEED to fix that. My WB is 12 3/8".

05-28-2009, 07:57 PM	#108
romulus22 0 0 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: FT. Thomas Posts: 1,830	mine do the same. i figure the stockers wont last too long. i planned on just upgrading to some MIP's eventually

05-28-2009, 08:15 PM	#109
Esteban86K5 Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 242	Well I reworked it a bit. I started with a new piece and flipped it over and re-drilled all the holes. It seems a little stiffer and the shafts don't rub as bad now. I'll get some pics up when I am done. I am about to go back out to cut the second driveshaft hole.

05-28-2009, 09:42 PM	#112
calikingcrawler RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Crawlifornia Posts: 1,941	I finally got to drive it!!!! I'll post more info and pics in our thread.

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05-28-2009, 10:34 PM	#113
Esteban86K5 Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 242	Mine is all done except the body post and body. I bent the aluminum axle plate I made to correct the driveline angle a little and to get the pinion up a little more so it won't get hung up as much.

05-29-2009, 11:29 AM	#114
MassCrawler Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston Posts: 31	I built up one of my own. ill post up some pics as soon as my cam returns.

05-29-2009, 11:31 AM	#115
Esteban86K5 Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2005 Location: Bakersfield Posts: 242	Well I put a battery pack through it this morning and all I can say is WOW!!! This thing is pretty capable. A couple of things I will need to dial in. First the body is mounted with 4 body posts. This restricts the chassis from flexing. SO I was carrying a tire in the air WAY too much and was denied some lines because of it. Second is the aluminum plates will need to be made of thicker aluminum or steel. I had a pretty good tumble that with my other chassis I would have kicked over and kept crawling. With this one I noticed no longer had rear wheel drive. Flipping it over I found that the rear plate had bent and the shaft pulled out. I was able to bend it back and kept crawling but I know if it keeps happening the aluminum will eventually crack. Those are the only things I found that i need to fix. Pretty minor really. I was only able to snap some pics with my phone. so here they are.

05-29-2009, 12:08 PM	#116
MassCrawler Newbie Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Boston Posts: 31	looks good mang, Im digging the grave digger body!!

05-29-2009, 01:26 PM	#117
calikingcrawler RCC Addict Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Crawlifornia Posts: 1,941	got the body on mine!!

06-02-2009, 11:01 AM	#118
Barrows Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Rockland ME Posts: 108	thanks for the idea!

08-11-2009, 03:10 AM	#119
username Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Post Falls, ID Posts: 337	anybody tried this a bit longer to go super size?

08-19-2009, 09:26 PM	#120
JoeMotor Pebble Pounder Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: SE Oklahoma Posts: 150	I've been running two rods in mine instead of one. No noticable change in articulation or stiffness, and the plastic doesn't bend and crack near as quickly. Still running it this way 3 months later. I'm using carbon fiber tube for the rods. It's really stiff at first. The carbon grabs the plastic alot more than aluminum or steel. But it loosens up after awhile and runs great.

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