RCCrawler Forums

shizzz · 01-31-2011, 09:18 AM

What are the "BAM wheels"?

Dasher · 01-31-2011, 09:43 AM

Thanks Day215
I'll have the posts up within a few days - it's a good way of learning!
Also tempted by the Frogger, and if I'm having to squeeze could re-visit the Eclipse. Still not ruled out the lazy route and gone for the Edge!
All things considered though, I want a FB -it ticks the most boxes, the DNA work being the only slight inconvenience.

Narly1 · 01-31-2011, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shizzz

What are the "BAM wheels"?

"BAM" is an acronym for Bad Ass Mother****er

or he could be referring to the BAMF wheels made by Create-A-Crawler:

CAC 2.0 Bamf-4 wheels

Sometimes we all forget that this website has a worldwide audience!!

Narly1

shizzz · 01-31-2011, 09:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dasher

Thanks Day215
I'll have the posts up within a few days - it's a good way of learning!
Also tempted by the Frogger, and if I'm having to squeeze could re-visit the Eclipse. Still not ruled out the lazy route and gone for the Edge!
All things considered though, I want a FB -it ticks the most boxes, the DNA work being the only slight inconvenience.

Fastback is a deal!

Really love it

shizzz · 01-31-2011, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Narly1

"BAM" is an acronym for Bad Ass Mother****er

or he could be referring to the BAMF wheels made by Create-A-Crawler:

CAC 2.0 Bamf-4 wheels

Sometimes we all forget that this website has a worldwide audience!!

Narly1

Thanks man

I'm usually fine with different kinds of abbr. I tot smth like that, but the word "wheels" headed me the wrong direction lol

Narly1 Today, 09:56 AM
shizzz Today, 09:56 AM

slowlearner · 01-31-2011, 02:22 PM

Bad Attitude Machining. A vendor thru this site making some very nice wheels.
The more I look the more I want and the more my bank account screams in pain.

DAY215-thanx for feedback on the dig and room issues, I've been set on the VP hurtz for a bit, but supply issues from VP mean I'm looking more closely at the VF dig now. There's a couple VF digs in the wanted section I have my eye on, hoping to buy in next couple days.
I also feel your pain when it comes to with those MG995 (and 996) servos. Went thru 3 x 995's and a 996 before biting the bullet and getting the HITEC 7950. The difference it made was big bouncy moon leaps ahead of the MG995 / 6. Being able to turn wheels and shift large head size rocks at the same time is a wonderful thing. Only drawback is, the stress it has put on the front servo / battery plate; it's eventually worked some slop into the mounting posts on the diff and become loose

Had to re-inforce the whole thing with epoxy in the posts to close up the thread some for the screws to bite more and add more support screws further out on the diff. Seems to be holding.....for now.

DASHER-Not one to knock a product until I've used it, but I'd go the frogger over the TCS edge. Seems to me to be just a bolt on. I did much the same thing DIY style (refer older posts in this thread) Looked good to me, but heavy and was still just a stock set-up. Style over substance / performance. Like I say, not knocking TCS edge, just an opinion.
The 60-40 weight distribution of the FB and what I assume the frogger has makes a big difference. If you can get onto some material to make a skid, do it. Takes a bit of trial and error and working things thru drawings, but also worth it. Research skid widths and tranny placements then make your own mind up. Just be aware that to go the 60-40 weight way, you'll be altering your link lengths and your drive-shaft lengths, both of which will have to be modded to suit.

Dasher · 01-31-2011, 02:37 PM

Thanks Slowlearner. I don't see how the Edge gives a performance boost either - which I suppose is why i've not bought one. Resizing the links doesn't bother me as they can be in delrin but changing the shafts does and unless I can get them made up is a bit of a killer. Not dead yet though, for the price of the frogger I think that it's worth a punt!

day215 · 01-31-2011, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dasher

Thanks Slowlearner. I don't see how the Edge gives a performance boost either - which I suppose is why i've not bought one. Resizing the links doesn't bother me as they can be in delrin but changing the shafts does and unless I can get them made up is a bit of a killer. Not dead yet though, for the price of the frogger I think that it's worth a punt!

I enter the DIY tuber route when I first started, looked cool but lacked the ability to tune and was heavy. The need to alter driveshafts with a 60/40 setup is a breeze, I did mine usund traxxas stampede shafts but more recently tried it using Jato shafts. Its cheap and works great.

Dasher · 01-31-2011, 04:08 PM

Are you running a dig as well Day215? if so then does the rear shaft revert to almost standard length, and the front become the short one? If I can get hold of ready to use shafts then that really helps. This is good info, just when I was going full circle and falling back on the GC-3A route (the easy option)!

slowlearner · 01-31-2011, 04:52 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/Titanium-27-rods...item4155c87841

this is the guy I got my rod from to do my links. I also used some of it to do the rear drive shaft after mishap at work trying to repair original INTEGY shaft. (refer older post).
This is HEAPS of rod to do more than a few rigs. I only got 9 rods of various sizes when I bought. $31usd is a bit, but it'll last forever and strong as buggery. Only issue I had was cutting threads. Slllllooooooowww process that.

day215 · 01-31-2011, 05:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dasher

Are you running a dig as well Day215? if so then does the rear shaft revert to almost standard length, and the front become the short one? If I can get hold of ready to use shafts then that really helps. This is good info, just when I was going full circle and falling back on the GC-3A route (the easy option)!

DNA dig with stock length rear shaft, using jato shafts in rear because of the high spline count and stock axial steel yokes, fronts are stock length stampede shafts with steel yokes. I originally added a small section onto the shafts before the dig came I was pleasantly surprised that I was able to return it back to stock length once dig was put in.

I've never worked with titanium, seems like more work than its worth. I havevreally gotten attached to delrin for making links.

Dasher · 02-01-2011, 01:16 PM

Day 215
Thanks for this mate - I really want to go for the Frogger, as the FB seems a difficult one to hunt down, just need Casey to confirm that the DNA will go (even if, like you, I have to do some shaving). Would've preferred a skid too but I'll live with it. If the Frogger doesn't go, then it's a GC3A - the safe option, but I generally don't do the safe option!
Loos like there could be a new build thread soon!

01-31-2011, 09:18 AM	#41
shizzz Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ukraine Posts: 400	What are the "BAM wheels"?

01-31-2011, 09:43 AM	#42
Dasher Croakin' across the pond! Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 272	Thanks Day215 I'll have the posts up within a few days - it's a good way of learning! Also tempted by the Frogger, and if I'm having to squeeze could re-visit the Eclipse. Still not ruled out the lazy route and gone for the Edge! All things considered though, I want a FB -it ticks the most boxes, the DNA work being the only slight inconvenience.

01-31-2011, 02:22 PM	#46
slowlearner Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: tamworth, nsw, australia Posts: 93	Bad Attitude Machining. A vendor thru this site making some very nice wheels. The more I look the more I want and the more my bank account screams in pain. DAY215-thanx for feedback on the dig and room issues, I've been set on the VP hurtz for a bit, but supply issues from VP mean I'm looking more closely at the VF dig now. There's a couple VF digs in the wanted section I have my eye on, hoping to buy in next couple days. I also feel your pain when it comes to with those MG995 (and 996) servos. Went thru 3 x 995's and a 996 before biting the bullet and getting the HITEC 7950. The difference it made was big bouncy moon leaps ahead of the MG995 / 6. Being able to turn wheels and shift large head size rocks at the same time is a wonderful thing. Only drawback is, the stress it has put on the front servo / battery plate; it's eventually worked some slop into the mounting posts on the diff and become loose Had to re-inforce the whole thing with epoxy in the posts to close up the thread some for the screws to bite more and add more support screws further out on the diff. Seems to be holding.....for now. DASHER-Not one to knock a product until I've used it, but I'd go the frogger over the TCS edge. Seems to me to be just a bolt on. I did much the same thing DIY style (refer older posts in this thread) Looked good to me, but heavy and was still just a stock set-up. Style over substance / performance. Like I say, not knocking TCS edge, just an opinion. The 60-40 weight distribution of the FB and what I assume the frogger has makes a big difference. If you can get onto some material to make a skid, do it. Takes a bit of trial and error and working things thru drawings, but also worth it. Research skid widths and tranny placements then make your own mind up. Just be aware that to go the 60-40 weight way, you'll be altering your link lengths and your drive-shaft lengths, both of which will have to be modded to suit.

01-31-2011, 02:37 PM	#47
Dasher Croakin' across the pond! Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 272	Thanks Slowlearner. I don't see how the Edge gives a performance boost either - which I suppose is why i've not bought one. Resizing the links doesn't bother me as they can be in delrin but changing the shafts does and unless I can get them made up is a bit of a killer. Not dead yet though, for the price of the frogger I think that it's worth a punt!

01-31-2011, 04:08 PM	#49
Dasher Croakin' across the pond! Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 272	Are you running a dig as well Day215? if so then does the rear shaft revert to almost standard length, and the front become the short one? If I can get hold of ready to use shafts then that really helps. This is good info, just when I was going full circle and falling back on the GC-3A route (the easy option)!

01-31-2011, 04:52 PM	#50
slowlearner Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: tamworth, nsw, australia Posts: 93	http://cgi.ebay.com/Titanium-27-rods...item4155c87841 this is the guy I got my rod from to do my links. I also used some of it to do the rear drive shaft after mishap at work trying to repair original INTEGY shaft. (refer older post). This is HEAPS of rod to do more than a few rigs. I only got 9 rods of various sizes when I bought. $31usd is a bit, but it'll last forever and strong as buggery. Only issue I had was cutting threads. Slllllooooooowww process that.

02-01-2011, 01:16 PM	#52
Dasher Croakin' across the pond! Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 272	Day 215 Thanks for this mate - I really want to go for the Frogger, as the FB seems a difficult one to hunt down, just need Casey to confirm that the DNA will go (even if, like you, I have to do some shaving). Would've preferred a skid too but I'll live with it. If the Frogger doesn't go, then it's a GC3A - the safe option, but I generally don't do the safe option! Loos like there could be a new build thread soon!

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