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12-16-2010, 11:22 PM | #21 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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are the ckrc rockster chassis any good? I like the way they look, but if they dont work well Ill probably just get the SWX.
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12-17-2010, 02:32 PM | #22 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Central FL
Posts: 509
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I haven't seen any rockstar chassis in action, but the SWX has been proven countless times. You might also wanna look at the new gatekeeper chassis before you make a decision.
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12-19-2010, 02:35 AM | #23 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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Ill wate to see if I get any other response about the CKRC chassis.... I did put on some alum steering nuckles & shock bodys. Going to move my links inbord the chassis.. pics to come. |
12-19-2010, 11:09 PM | #24 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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Added Dinamite alum steering nuckles & shock bodys. Changed the springs to some chrome ones I had here (they are a litle softer than stock. still need spacers for the shocks & longer screws) Moved the links inboard the chassis. Changed the beed lock rings. Switched the electronics to the top & battery under the tray. (Till I can get a different bat setup.) OH yah, I star cut the foams & vented the wheels. Last edited by airdreams1; 12-20-2010 at 12:47 PM. |
12-20-2010, 09:41 AM | #25 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: iron station
Posts: 41
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so far with mine the only weak link has been the driveshafts. I replaced them with integy ones. so far so good, just use locktite. otherwise the truck has been pretty tuff. good luck, your truck is looking good.
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12-20-2010, 12:17 PM | #26 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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Was looking at the integy drive shafts too. Hope to get them & that they are good.... Yah i use blue locktight on evertthing metal to metal (unless I use nylocks) |
12-20-2010, 07:02 PM | #27 |
Tossin' Salad Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Petaluma
Posts: 1,826
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Your C hubs are on backwards.
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12-21-2010, 10:47 AM | #28 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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You are talking about the plastic part the nuckles fit into, right? If so, Thats how they came. So do I need to just turn them upside down? or put the left on the right & vice versa? |
12-21-2010, 10:55 AM | #29 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Wheeling
Posts: 454
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your'e gonna flip them over to either side so that you have caster in the steering, the lower half will be in front of the axle a little and the top will point back to the chassis a little. Dont expect to be done till all you have left thats stock is your axle casings LOL... do one mod at a time to understand what affects your rig... or just go balls out modding it all and enjoy a totally different experience.... i think i have built things 4 or 5 times before even powering it all up. check articulation and suspension angles without shocks so you can feel whether or not it binds up. lather, rinse, repeat! |
12-21-2010, 08:37 PM | #30 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: N. California
Posts: 424
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Lookin' good. I rock the Integy shafts and they are awesome for the price. Locktite is a must for them, and you might want to do some swapping on the little screws depending on which direction you install the shafts, or replace all of them for sunk in screws as some of the included screws stick out beyond the shaft, and will losen on the rocks. I replaced all of mine with short screws so they would not stick out.
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12-23-2010, 08:50 PM | #31 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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Got the C's swaped (needed to switch rite & left) seems to have clocked the steering up a bit... Im sure that will help. Just got a set of losi claws to put on it & have a few more parts coming in the mail & will update ASAP... |
12-24-2010, 02:23 PM | #32 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: McKinney
Posts: 344
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You're making good progress! Keep at it! What I would do next, is buy a small LiPo battery....something like a 2S 800. The weight savings alone will be significant. Plus, the much smaller size will greatly increase your positioning options. Keep in mind, it's a 10 minute time limit (IIRC) on a course, so you don't need anything over 1000MaH. You can go as low as 480's, and have time to spare. Plus, with the LiPo, you can charge it immediately after you run it, so you can even make due with one pack, if you have to. Use lexan and zip ties to make mounts for your receiver and ESC on your upper links. You can just see it on the right side in this pic: Getting all your weight as low as possible will help, and this trick is as cheap as a sheet of .040 lexan and some zipties. |
12-27-2010, 10:38 PM | #33 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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Just building it for bashing/crawling here localy... Dont think Ill ever comp it. I did drive it a bit today just to see how it is dooing, & its way better.... But still needs weight in wheels, better esc, & so on. Got a couple more parts & will get some pics ASAP |
12-27-2010, 10:47 PM | #34 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Fox Valley WI
Posts: 1,691
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Progress .
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12-29-2010, 11:56 PM | #35 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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So here is what I have at this point... Got the sterring rods (& some parts for my TLT) free from a felo member. They are 100 times better than the flimsy plastic arms that it came with. Thanks Still have a few more parts to put on. Anyone have pics of how the servo/4 link plate is supose to work? Or the driveshaft retainers? Was thinking the front servo/4link plate may end up on the rear axle to hold electronics if I decide to make a sadle pack. |
12-30-2010, 06:58 AM | #36 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ontario
Posts: 579
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I would go with the SWX chassis and get the droop shock springs from tcs crawlers.
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12-30-2010, 11:33 PM | #37 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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tryed it out today with the losi rock claws & weighted front wheels & that helped out a bit... Think it was mostly the weight.... going to try weight in the rear as well. the stock tires do prety good with the foams cut a bit more drastic than the standard recomended V V V V V V V V all the way around. I actualy did them with wideer V cuts & made the cuts touch like: VVVVVVVV all the way around & trimed the outer corners a bit... That made them very soft. |
09-08-2011, 01:52 PM | #38 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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finaly made some progress on the truck... ready for another maiden voiage (since all the new parts & changes) @ local fun crawl tonight (comp practice). I hope all goes well. Ill try to get some pics wile Im there. just going out to see all the other trucks & get some idea of what all is involved, ideas for home course, etc. updates: spektrum rx CC bec HiTec 645MG AE2 esc Axial BTA steering & axle C's rear 4 link & front alum Y link weight added to rear wheels Memory foams think thats it, but may have forgoten something? Last edited by airdreams1; 09-08-2011 at 02:04 PM. |
09-08-2011, 10:31 PM | #39 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Marsing ID
Posts: 300
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Forgot the camera on the way out the door. But had fun, but the crawler needed more weight on the front end. & I have a huge amount of torque twist to get worked out! Had the bec wired up all wrong (easy fix though) Also learned the correct way to instal the screws into the links |
09-09-2011, 06:15 AM | #40 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Central FL
Posts: 509
| If I had a nickel for every time I did that... An easy first step towards reducing TT is to mount one link end above and one below on the rear plate. If I remember right, I put the passenger side on top when I ran my SWX plate in the rear. |
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