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Old 12-27-2007, 11:30 AM   #21
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I'm not sure if I want to tally up the total that I've dumped into this thing. I think it would scare me. Plus this is just the latest version, who knows how many hundreds of dollars worth of stuff has been replaced in the past couple months.:-( I'll see what I can do though, I'm sure there's more than a few people that would be curious to know.

I am in the same boat with you on the cost. I have an almost identical setup as yours. If you do post a total, make sure my wife doesn't see it!!!!
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Old 12-27-2007, 11:58 AM   #22
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I am in the same boat with you on the cost. I have an almost identical setup as yours. If you do post a total, make sure my wife doesn't see it!!!!

This isn't a cheap hobby by any means.

Well I just had pg. 192-214 typed up with the entire piece by piece build tally....but I bumped the mouse and it all got deleted before I could post it. I do have the final total though....
































































$1147



...and that just includes the "current" build, not any of the parts that have been replaced or any of the spares in the toolbox. If I feel up to it later I'll type it all up again, cause I'm really frusterated at the moment to do it right now.
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Old 12-27-2007, 12:04 PM   #23
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I have a nasty feeling that I am just about to ask a dumb question :-( but here goes ...

I really like the look of those MSD wheels but when I took a look on their website it doesn't look like they have a hex like the ones on my AX10 wheels so how does that work then ?

please be gentle with me
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Old 12-27-2007, 12:25 PM   #24
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I have a nasty feeling that I am just about to ask a dumb question :-( but here goes ...

I really like the look of those MSD wheels but when I took a look on their website it doesn't look like they have a hex like the ones on my AX10 wheels so how does that work then ?

please be gentle with me
The hex will work just fine.
The wheels are made completely different and out of completely different materails, so that's why they don't look the same. The MSD's have less offset though, so they will widen you're overll width (track width) compared to the stck axial rims (I'm not sure exactly how much though).
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:05 PM   #25
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I have a nasty feeling that I am just about to ask a dumb question :-( but here goes ...

I really like the look of those MSD wheels but when I took a look on their website it doesn't look like they have a hex like the ones on my AX10 wheels so how does that work then ?

please be gentle with me
It will make them wider, but if you cut off the nub on the stock ax10 adapters it will make the MSD's fit better. That is what I did, I did not like how the hex did not go all the way flush with the MSD's. With that mod done and because the MSD Top Gun's are narrower than the stock Axial rims. The track width is almost the same when all is said and done. At least on my rig that seems to be the case. If it is wider, it is only by 1/4in at most.
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:08 PM   #26
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It will make them wider, but if you cut off the nub on the stock ax10 adapters it will make the MSD's fit better. That is what I did, I did not like how the hex did not go all the way flush with the MSD's. With that mod done and because the MSD Top Gun's are narrower than the stock Axial rims. The track width is almost the same when all is said and done. At least on my rig that seems to be the case. If it is wider, it is only by 1/4in at most.
Yes, the little nub on the stock axial wheel hex needs to be cut off. The hex should be completely flat on the face. This is a must do mod if you're running the msd wheels, they wll not seat properly if the hex isn't flat.
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:24 PM   #27
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This isn't a cheap hobby by any means.
























$1147



...and that just includes the "current" build, not any of the parts that have been replaced or any of the spares in the toolbox. If I feel up to it later I'll type it all up again, cause I'm really frusterated at the moment to do it right now.
well that makes me feel even more mad

my 2007 nationals 2.2 grounder $2348.13
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:33 PM   #28
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Alright, let's try this again without deleting it.

As I previously stated, this only includes the "current" build. It does not include pretty much every single part being replaces two or three times or any of the spare parts that are a must have for the tool box. So with that in mind, here goes,

SW3 Chassis w/ Link Mounts - $90
- Custom Delrin Skid - $2
- Delrin Stand-Offs - $2
Links
- Jato Rod Ends - $15
- 8-32 All-Thread - $2
- Delrin Tubing - $2
- TLT Link Mounts - $3
Axial Axles - $90
- RCP Alloy Knuckles - $29
- RCP Alloy C's - $29
- RCP Alloy Straight Axle Adapters - $29
- Steering Linkgage and Rod Ends - $10
MSD Beadlocks - $100
Losi Rocks Claw Tires - $40
Kreepy Red Front Foams - $20
Hot Bodies Maxx Shocks - $40
- Losi Springs - $4
- Shock Oil - $4
Losi XX tranny - $40
Axiom V11 Motor - $40
- 12t Pinion - $4
- 12g Wire and Deans Plugs (Motor and ESC) - $10
2.5 Maxx Shafts and Yokes - $18
Bug Body - $25
- Paint for Body - $10
- Body Clips and Body Washers - $2
- Body Posts - $4
Mamba Max ESC - $125
Castle BEC - $25
Spektrum RX/TX - $150
TP MG995 Servo - $20
- Alloy Servo Horn - $10
10 cell Battery Packs (x2) - $50
Misc. 3mm Bolts and Lock Nuts - $10

Grand Total - $1054

Now this doesn't include a charger, which is kinda important to get running.

Hyperion EOS 5i Charger - $115

"Running" Grand Total - $1169


Keep in mind this isn't even the best stuff out there, the axles are completely stock inside and my servo is the cheapest crappy servo on the market. But it gives you a good idea of what a "real" competitive comp crawler runs.
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:34 PM   #29
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well that makes me feel even more mad

my 2007 nationals 2.2 grounder $2348.13

Holy crap Ben, how did you rack up that much?!
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:41 PM   #30
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I also have all of the stuff for dig sitting here, but I'm not convinced yet that it's worth it. We'll have to see if rigs with dig are actually getting an advantage over me in the coming winter series. So far all I can see is it's still about the driver knowing their rig and picking the correct line. I've made and haven't made all of the lines that guys with dig are making and not making when we crawl. So we'll see.
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Old 12-27-2007, 01:42 PM   #31
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Holy crap Ben, how did you rack up that much?!
That is the same thing I was thinking!! At least he should get a discount on the MSD's
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Old 12-27-2007, 08:44 PM   #32
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Is was wondering the same thing. I've got a set of wk axles sitting here but have just been to busy to take them both apart and see if they'll work. Please post up the results if you do try it out though.
He He, thanks to King Bling for doing our homework for us. Found the answer a couple threads up. Here's the link:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82489

I was still too lazy to disassemble, but I did verify that the pinion bearings are the same size on both axles. You will need swap out both the pinion gear and the shaft because only the complete pinion assembly is interchangeable. The WK uses a keyed shaft inside the pinion and the AX-10 uses round shaft with a pin to lock the pinion gear to the shaft. Both use the same PITA E-Clip to hold the gear to the shaft..... My brother ran the WK axles for awhile and he was able to run a stock Maxx shaft. I am pretty sure the larger yoke works just fine. Don't need to purchase the transmission output yoke like you do with the TLT's. Hope that helped!

Very nice rig man!
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Old 12-27-2007, 08:49 PM   #33
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well that makes me feel even more mad

my 2007 nationals 2.2 grounder $2348.13

.....

Gulp...... holy sh!t balls!!!!!!!!
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:00 PM   #34
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She looks good. I like your link locations but no dig set up?
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Old 12-27-2007, 09:00 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Unimoger View Post
well that makes me feel even more mad

my 2007 nationals 2.2 grounder $2348.13
Man, that salesman saw you coming a mile away. :-P

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecker View Post
I also have all of the stuff for dig sitting here, but I'm not convinced yet that it's worth it. We'll have to see if rigs with dig are actually getting an advantage over me in the coming winter series. So far all I can see is it's still about the driver knowing their rig and picking the correct line. I've made and haven't made all of the lines that guys with dig are making and not making when we crawl. So we'll see.
You should have been at the comp Sunday, dig was key in a couple situations.

Sweet looking rig, it must sidehill nicely now.
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Old 12-27-2007, 10:35 PM   #36
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He He, thanks to King Bling for doing our homework for us. Found the answer a couple threads up. Here's the link:

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82489

I was still too lazy to disassemble, but I did verify that the pinion bearings are the same size on both axles. You will need swap out both the pinion gear and the shaft because only the complete pinion assembly is interchangeable. The WK uses a keyed shaft inside the pinion and the AX-10 uses round shaft with a pin to lock the pinion gear to the shaft. Both use the same PITA E-Clip to hold the gear to the shaft..... My brother ran the WK axles for awhile and he was able to run a stock Maxx shaft. I am pretty sure the larger yoke works just fine. Don't need to purchase the transmission output yoke like you do with the TLT's. Hope that helped!

Very nice rig man!
Sweet, good to know. Thanks for the information.
The WK pinion is a lot cheaper than buying the upgraded hardended steel ring and pinion, although I'll probably end up with those anyways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormin2u View Post
She looks good. I like your link locations but no dig set up?
Thanks Storm.
Yeah, I'm just going to keep telling myself I don't need it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BENDER View Post
Man, that salesman saw you coming a mile away. :-P



You should have been at the comp Sunday, dig was key in a couple situations.

Sweet looking rig, it must sidehill nicely now.
Thanks Brad.
That's not the information I need to hear. I'm just to lazy/busy with other projects to build the dig and mount it up.
As of right now I have no idea how much better it sidehills. Last time I drove it it had this same setup just with tlt axles and 2.75" of GC and it did pretty dang good. I can only imagine it will be better. We'll just have to see if I can still get over everything though. But then again, that's what the 12 volts is for, ...just give her a little go and boost over it!
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:56 PM   #37
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Nice build. Consider installing dig, or at least a disconnect. I dont know about where you crawl, but its pretty much mandatory at our outdoor comps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrecker
- RCP Alloy Knuckles - $29
- RCP Alloy C's - $29
- RCP Alloy Straight Axle Adapters - $29
I dont see RCP Straight Axle Shafts? I dont suggest running the Straight Axle Adapters without the Straight Axle Shafts. I ran my comp rig once for about 15 minutes without the straight axle shafts, couldnt stand the wheel slop and ordered the straight axles shafts. When I went to install the Straight Axle Shafts I found tons of aluminum shavings inside of the Straight Axle Adapters, the stubs axles were slopping around inside there and chewing up the adapters.

Thanks for totalling up your costs so far. I just went and totalled mine up and... well......at least the wife doesnt know..
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:32 PM   #38
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Nice build. Consider installing dig, or at least a disconnect. I dont know about where you crawl, but its pretty much mandatory at our outdoor comps.



I dont see RCP Straight Axle Shafts? I dont suggest running the Straight Axle Adapters without the Straight Axle Shafts. I ran my comp rig once for about 15 minutes without the straight axle shafts, couldnt stand the wheel slop and ordered the straight axles shafts. When I went to install the Straight Axle Shafts I found tons of aluminum shavings inside of the Straight Axle Adapters, the stubs axles were slopping around inside there and chewing up the adapters.

Thanks for totalling up your costs so far. I just went and totalled mine up and... well......at least the wife doesnt know..

Thanks.
Yeah, I've got the dig sitting stuff sitting here, one of these days I'll get around to installing it.

The axles are completely stock stock inside right now, they won't stay like that for long. RCP straight axles and hardened steel ring and pinions are in the plans. I did notice the excesive slop in the rear though as soon as I got the adapters on. They definitely aren't meant to be run without the staight axles.
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:44 PM   #39
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So how much does it cost to make Axial axles drivable? I was just wondering as they seem to be the diggity bomb!
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:47 PM   #40
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So how much does it cost to make Axial axles drivable? I was just wondering as they seem to be the diggity bomb!
Less than clod axles.
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