Front Axles Binding at Full Steering Lock?

[jbsmith05]

So my new ridgecrest seems to bind when at full steering lock. I already set my trim so the wheels don't hit the body or frame so it's not that.

I suspect it's just like a real 4x4 with locked front axels and diff where it is difficult to make a tight turn.

I don't notice this when in dirt/grass. Only when in a stand. I've only run it 3 or 4 times and that was mildly in the backyard, going over curbs, etc.

Is this something I need to be concerned with?

[ZayZay671]

iM GEUSSING YOUR RUNNING THE STOCK DOGBONE SETUP? yOU MIGHT WANNA TRY AND GRAB SOME UNIVERSALS SHAFTS...

[jbsmith05]

yeah it's all stock. Have a recommendation for universals?

Also I assume it's ok to leave as-is until they break or whenever I get around to putting in the universals?

[isyeskeert]

Axial universals are fine and only 40 bucks. Dog bones are the devil, they break c hubs and spindles.

Do a google search on this site, AR60 dog bones, both for the Wraith and the Ridge have been cussed about a million kazillion times! The search feature is your friend!

[jbsmith05]

Thanks, I do search first...but I just saw a lot of posts where the binding developed. Site is great, just sometimes hard to determine with all the content if its the same issue as I have - especially to a newb!

Appreciate all the help from everyone!

[CrawlCrest]

Ditch those dog bones asap! I have the Axial uni's, one of the first mods I did.

[benster]

to relieve the dogbone issue, I just limited the steering endpoints so it doesn't bind. The stock dogbones have about 32 degrees Worth of turning, but only about 25 without binding. it does make for a lot bigger turning radius, but you don't have to worry about breaking a dogbone because of binding. VP shafts are coming so I'll be able to double my endpoints now hehehe.

edit: make sure you read what the steering angle of the new shafts you'll be using are and that they are higher than 32 cause some of them a quite cheap but reduce your steering angle.

[Dostradamas]

I have been running the stock bones in my (used to be) RTR Wraith for almost a year now. I keep the endpoints back enough & they are holding up fine for me w/ 35t HH on 3s.
I will however upgrade to universals in front when I go 4WS & put the bones in back to keep $$ to a minimum.

[pie_]

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

I have been running the stock bones in my (used to be) RTR Wraith for almost a year now. I keep the endpoints back enough & they are holding up fine for me w/ 35t HH on 3s.
I will however upgrade to universals in front when I go 4WS & put the bones in back to keep $$ to a minimum.

Still on stock spur/pinion?

[Dostradamas]

Originally Posted by pie_

Still on stock spur/pinion?

no
87 T 48 pitch Axial plastic spur & RRP 16T steel pinion, runs warm after 2 3s packs & have not pushed. I will likely go down to 14 or 15 on the pinion.

The bones,driveshafts & the front Ring & pinion are about all thats left stock in the drivetrain.

Pinion & spur were the 1st thing i changed.

[Mudfrog]

I had the same issue and my stock dogbones had actually worn grooves into the cups and they were binding there. I bought a set of the HR universals and they broke within 2 minutes of use. I ordered a set of Axial universals and they are great. I was very hard on them last night and they took the abuse.

[pie_]

Originally Posted by Dostradamas

no
87 T 48 pitch Axial plastic spur & RRP 16T steel pinion, runs warm after 2 3s packs & have not pushed. I will likely go down to 14 or 15 on the pinion.

The bones,driveshafts & the front Ring & pinion are about all thats left stock in the drivetrain.

Pinion & spur were the 1st thing i changed.

I just put a 13t pinion in mine the other day and on 3s it is slower than stock, thinking about putting a 16t on there for a bit more wheelspeed.

[Dostradamas]

I ended up with the 14T pinion (87 spur) & that is the 1! runs warm for hours on 3s, just what I wanted no more hot motor!