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Thread: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

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Old 01-20-2016, 11:58 AM   #1
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Default Bomber Drive Shaft Options

I see MIP drive shafts are sold as a pair with no Bomber set available. It doesn't seem they are sold individually to get 1 wraith and 1 yeti. What are the options?
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:09 PM   #2
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

I'll let you know after I break the stock ones. From what I've read they seem to hold up fairly well.
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:13 PM   #3
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Yeti rear, comes with the complete rear shaft. #14390

Front is Wraith male/female and two short 5mm ends. Wraith style for the small cross pin or AX10 style for the larger cross pin.

Standard MIP X-Duty "Female" CVD™ - Super Shafty
Standard MIP X-Duty CVD™ Bone - Super Shafty
MIP CVD™ Rebuild Kit X-Duty - Super Shafty
MIP 5mm replacment Hub - Super Shafty x2

All that is like $49.

Or you can get a complete set for $55 and have 2 front shafts.


Edit again... looks like a single ax10 shaft for $30 here.

Yeti rear here.

$68 plus shipping.

Last edited by maslin; 01-20-2016 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:25 PM   #4
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Boom! That's what I was looking for. So the Ax10 shaft is same size as wraith front?
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:32 PM   #5
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drm31078 View Post
Boom! That's what I was looking for. So the Ax10 shaft is same size as wraith front?
The female/male splined section is the same as wraith. But on a wraith it needs extended outputs but the bomber doesn't.
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:42 PM   #6
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Quote:
Originally Posted by F1GHTF1R3W1THF1Re. View Post
I'll let you know after I break the stock ones. From what I've read they seem to hold up fairly well.
The stock driveshafts have held up great for me. 3 rigs on 3s brushless Holmes power and not one has broken or even twisted on me in the slightest. I'm very curious to see how well they hold up on my new build with the monster Holmes 540XL. If that motor doesn't break them then I'll be very impressed.
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:46 PM   #7
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Good to know. I am basically putting together an entire shopping list based on Harley's bulletproof wraith guide with similar stages. This is not a cheap hobby. Haha.
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:13 PM   #8
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Not cheap at all but worth every penny!
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:15 PM   #9
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

The actual Wraith length, with a short end and a long end is just barely too long. 2 short ends bring it back so it doesn't bottom out. The scx10 shaft has 2 short ends with small screws, the ax10 shaft has 2 short ends with big screws.
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:26 PM   #10
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Whats the MIP part number for short ends with big screw? I hate those tiny screw with 1.5mm head.
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Old 01-20-2016, 01:41 PM   #11
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

Quote:
Originally Posted by 84yoda View Post
Whats the MIP part number for short ends with big screw? I hate those tiny screw with 1.5mm head.
Should be 08112

The MIP side of it is universal, there is a short end with 5mm and small set screw, a short 5mm end with big set screws and a short 6mm end for upgraded trans outputs.

The two with big screws are actually traxxas ends, but they work on any 5mm/6mm shaft.

There's also 2 4mm traxxas through pins, a short one and long one. You need the short one.

Last edited by maslin; 01-20-2016 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 01-20-2016, 03:56 PM   #12
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Default Re: Bomber Drive Shaft Options

I know that the cheaper version of the MIP's for the original AX10 will fit in a stock Wraith. Clearancing of the spur cover is required on a Wraith to fit the larger and shorter regular outputs. On a Bomber this should be a non-issue.

There is a short section of slip that is connected at full droop. Proably less than 1/2". I think this is why the "Wraith" versions of the MIP's include the longer and slimmer (and smaller 3mm threaded) outputs. Even years later including mud/sand/snow usage and the slip is still fairly snug and actually slips easily while under torque.

The joints however are not so tight anymore, but I keep putting barrels and Gunnar pins in them and drill another set of holes in the bone to keep them going.

It's never pulled apart and become and issue so I considered the larger grubs and decreased operating angle where the tradeoff to increased slip overlap.
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