Allanon1965 builds a B1B bomber

[allanon1965]

I got all the panels painted up and actually ran it around the garage, still waiting on the HW1080 ESC and slw hubs but its not too bad yet..

[JatoTheRipper]

I love the shorter wheelbase! Looks great and I'm sure it's a hoot.

[allanon1965]

well, I got a longer servo arm today as the one I used was too short and wouldnt turn the max radius. I got it going and I am on the fence about this rig still. The turning radius is terrible and the knuckles are hitting the chubs or whatever you call those things..so there is no more turning available.

I am only running on a tired 35t brushed motor so speed isnt there but thats fine as I want to try and work out the bugs while brushed.. I will see how it acts when my slw hubs finally get here so I can run my larger PB RB2 tires and wheels. I am thinking at this rate I may shorten up the rear trailing arms after all and see if that helps.

[CarolinaBlue]

I have a couple of new to me Bomber RTR's and I notice a lot of folks seem to be running an additional front skid. Where is this from? Was it an extra part in the kit? I would like to add for the additional protection and looks. I redboxed in the pic below for reference.

Thanks!

[IMG][/IMG]

[durok]

These are aftermarket independent front suspension conversions of the Bomber, no solid axle up front.

The parts are NOT included with Axial Bomber kit or RTR versions...

DMG makes the conversions and other non-Bomber parts are used to complete.

[CarolinaBlue]

Originally Posted by durok

These are aftermarket independent front suspension conversions of the Bomber, no solid axle up front.

The parts are NOT included with Axial Bomber kit or RTR versions...

DMG makes the conversions and other non-Bomber parts are used to complete.

Thanks for explaining! The extra protection up front would be nice.

[allanon1965]

That front bumper is the stock Yeti front bumper I chose to leave on. The Yeti Front bumper only fits the yeti front end suspension that makes up the IFS B1B Bomber

[Mudeater67]

Originally Posted by allanon1965

I got all the panels painted up and actually ran it around the garage, still waiting on the HW1080 ESC and slw hubs but its not too bad yet..

Looking Good Bro

[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by Mudeater67

Looking Good Bro

Thanks! Time will tell though if I end up keeping it...turning radius is abysmal..I may end up selling it to fund a gen 8 scout!

[Jboucher]

What's so bad about the turn radius?

I have no issue on mine with the VP stage 1 knuckles/ c-hubs and VP slw hubs.

I see the same turning radius as my yeti Jr.

Am I missing something?



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[durok]

Jboucher, his has the IFS conversion - steering is quite different than a solid axle Bomber.

[Jboucher]

Ok
The yeti jr is IFS too but I never noticed any lack of steering...

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[allanon1965]

the yeti jr is a smaller rig than the 1/10 yeti...but I may shorten up the rear trailing arms to see if that improves the turning radius..as well as removing the locker in the front diff and doing the open gear set with the racers edge putty that bilinvic did..

[allanon1965]

We are starting to get somewhere now.. I got my rx in yesterday and borrowed the wheels, tires and slw hubs form one of my other crawlers to try this out better...the tired 35t is really slow lol! i will need to get brushless sensored power to this bomber trans soon. I put in stiffer springs n the front and swapped out the bomber shocks in the rear for the stock rear yeti shocks.. much better, but will need the rear sway bar for sure with brushless power. Wheel base turned out to be 14.75 inches...

[allanon1965]

found a smokin deal from one of our local crawler club members, it was an MMP with a gen 1 tekin redline 13.5 sensored brushless motor. I sold it to him a few months ago in a different rig and he ended up not using it.

I got it in and it runs much better and positively needs the rear sway bar now lol. I am beginning to develop a liking for this rig, we will see how long that lasts after I get to run it tomorrow.

[BOMBERINOZ]

What length shocks are you running in the Yeti front end? they look too long
The Yeti front suspension / lower arms should be sitting at a near flat / horizontal ride height, it looks like you have too much angle on it all which will cause problems for the steering etc as you mentioned
It will not steer & handle the same, happens with full size 4WD's too, makes it dangerous

Checkout google images ( Axial Yeti or Yeti Score etc) & you can see the correct ride height they are meant to be setup has the lower arms sitting flat
I think that is where half the problem is

[BOMBERINOZ]

This is how it should look, not only to correct the handling & steering but also if you lower the front end it will change the weight bias, transfer some weight to the front wheels so they can actually dig in & steer it, looks to me like the front end would just be skidding around everywhere

Set it up like the pic below & let us know how it goes, I am looking at doing the Yeti front end conversion on my Bomber soon too & I want to set it up to go fast, or faster at least so I am keen to know all the details

[allanon1965]

I started with the arms pretty level and it still had a horrible turning radius, even though the steering knuckles turned all the way to the castor blocks. I am running the stock yeti shocks on the front and rear with the stiffer shocks from the bomber on the front shocks. I need the ground clearance for what I am going to be doing with it, not going to be a go fast basher at all. When I get the rear sway bar on that will take care of most of the torque twist it has with the brushless set up.
I have got it to the point where its turning halfway decent. I know if I put on shorter rear trailing arms and took the locker out of the front diff I could probably get the radius down a bit more but I am going to run it tomorrow if the weather holds, and see how it acts.

If you are looking to make it a go fast rig, you will need to have it setup completely different than I have this one setup.. for sure want an open front diff instead of a locked one like I have...

[Steve g]

What about using underdrive gears in the rear? That will make a noticeable increase in steering on high traction surfaces. Maybe try that before unlocking the front end.

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[allanon1965]

Originally Posted by Steve g

What about using underdrive gears in the rear? That will make a noticeable increase in steering on high traction surfaces. Maybe try that before unlocking the front end.

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I have done that in other rigs and didnt like how it causes the front to pull down on surfaces that have good traction...it pulls down when going forward and lifts when going in reverse