Is it more cost effective to piece meal a Bomber together than to start with the kit?

[MAC FAB]

I would like a solid axle Bomber, so what is the best plan of attack as far as being cost conscious (not looking to replace every piece/part)? I don't care about links as a deal maker/breaker, and I don't want a hammered used one either, unless I got it for next to nothing. How do I achieve the goal? Not building a total basher, just a trail rig, to try to get the wife on board with the "toy" program. ???????????

[WHITE-TRASH]

Typically a used rig going for under $300 will be hammered dog shit. Drop $350-450 and you'll get a nicely upgraded rig in solid shape.

The rtr sucks, the kit is better but not all that great either.

[Jboucher]

The kit is solid and you can choose the upgrades.

Mostly needs lockers, beeftubes and RPM rod ends

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[MAC FAB]

Compared to getting a cage, the skid, and finding deals on the remainder? My problem is I'm a dogmatic built not bought guy. I can get an OEM cage for $70, a skid which I know absolutely nothing about cheap, axles which I get for $110 complete, new. I think this leaves a trans, shocks (use my indy rear type upper mounts and long shocks, Slash shocks up front, I have this stuff so no $$$), links (making my own, no $$$ again), driveshafts and tires gets me a roller, right? I have a ton of hardware already, no $$$ again. Or am I missing something else? Lockers solve the poor diff issues on RTR or kit parts, which both need, right? Or is there more going on than meets the eye? Please help the scratch builder see through OEM glasses. Would the kit still be that much better?

[Jboucher]

There is also the body panels, the interior, the radio box, the fuel cell, the decals and other minor details

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[MAC FAB]

Body is a non-issue, I'll do an aluminum one. Decals, ok, but I'm also fine with plain Jane aluminum. Fuel cell? Radio box is the fuel cell, isn't it? (Comes on the cage, it is OEM Bomber) Drivers, maybe $15 on fleabay using the OEM shelf. Working at making some real looking scale driver/co dawgs, do I dare say dolls? Another question though, the locker is just that, guts only, no hd r/p gearset along with it, right? I think the axles I saw are RTR, so then I'd be starting with the lousy r/p? Talked with someone who is looking to unload stuff that would get this build done or close to it, waiting to see the list. Another Q, what's the difference between Wraith, Bomber and whatever else skids besides tranny mount holes? Are the link mount points the same on all of them? Thanks for the information thus far.

[WHITE-TRASH]

Originally Posted by Jboucher

There is also the body panels, the interior, the radio box, the fuel cell, the decals and other minor details

Yup all the knick knacks add up quickly. By the time all the battery box, receiver box & crossmember, sway bar mounts etc are added up it's a pretty pricey cage to piece together. But it sounds like his mind is made up so our experience isn't needed.

[MAC FAB]

Not at all on the mindset. Trying to fast track the learning curve from all your experiences. The cage I'm looking at is complete everything, less the skid, not individual sections, parts and pieces. That said, what are the extra required knick knacks aside from sways, that you speak of? Make me think I do need to change my mindset, actually, and do the WHITE TRASH thing and pick up a used one

[durok]

Besides unpainted stock body panels, including interior, and a full set of the drivers heads (2 of eac - Skully, MX, and full-face)This is what I've got (sorry for the delay, we can discuss the deets in a PM):

[lszomb]

I always want to build something from ground, from scx10 / II to a rr10. The only really reason of stopping me to do such is lacking of axle, spool, ring gears and etc. It is easy to get those from market, but expensive. Getting all hardware can cost more than a half of a kit and you still need to get the rest. That made me always start with a kit version.

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[v33]

i have owned both, had a used bomber that came from an rtr and saw the potential and got the kit version (brand new).

there are a lot of things that make the kit version the best bang for the buck, sure you spend for electronics but most of those are junkers anyways and your better off buying something different that is more tuned to the direction you plan on going, you know like how much more you want to spend to get the performance aspect of it.

in my case the kit had lots more to offer, rear sway bars, alloy links, alloy rear link reinforcement, etc.

imagine this, i have a 2600kv brushless system in my rig and on my first run i almost destroyed the rod ends. it was partly due to my building it wrong, but imagine if that was the rtr version and takes that much abuse... i'd hate to think i would have broken 50% of the rig on first run.

if your not willing to spend on high quality stuff, get the kit... if money is not an option and/or you love parts hunting, then by all means go search, purchase and build. but if your just too lazy or not into building and run the bomber after opening the box... then rtr is the way to go.

i sold my rtr with some hopups, it was bashed by the previous owner. but i loved how the bomber looks, so i got and built the kit. i wanted more out of it and knew i had to do upgrades... so i did, i am very happy with what i have now but spent almost as much on hopups as the initial cost of the kit. hehehe

[Browneye]

Raises hand for kit...that's what I did. It's a cool rig.

[MAC FAB]

Kit makes sense, sell off what you don't use and reduce the build cost, has everything that is upgrade quality for a newbie driver. Also looking at preowned now.... is there anything that says "this rig is thrashed" that the untrained eye needs to know about?????

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

Kit makes sense, sell off what you don't use and reduce the build cost, has everything that is upgrade quality for a newbie driver. Also looking at preowned now.... is there anything that says "this rig is thrashed" that the untrained eye needs to know about?????

In very simple terms the Bomber is just a new, caged chassis with AR60 axles and the Yei transmission.

[Summitonslingrs]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

Kit makes sense, sell off what you don't use and reduce the build cost

That was my plan and it worked well. Sold the Kit Tires, Wheels, Links & Shocks for $115 combined right out the box!

*Sold these RC3WD wheels too...live/learn

[MAC FAB]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

In very simple terms the Bomber is just a new, caged chassis with AR60 axles and the Yei transmission.

I speak cage, the other stuff is Greek, I scratch build and haven't done a solid axle yet, potpouri of things to make them work. If its jacked up, how do you tell??? Slop here, there......

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by MAC FAB

I speak cage, the other stuff is Greek, I scratch build and haven't done a solid axle yet, potpouri of things to make them work. If its jacked up, how do you tell??? Slop here, there......

It's an Axial. It'll always have slop - even from new. If it works it works. If it doesn't it won't.

Obviously watch for the typical grinding gears and things like that. Make sure the axle shafts aren't bent. Check to make sure the AR60 axle housings aren't cracked especially around the two mounting screws for the shock/link mounts. If it looks beat it probably is.

[MAC FAB]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

It's an Axial. It'll always have slop - even from new. If it works it works. If it doesn't it won't.

That is a big part of why the scratch build mindset, failure is my fault, build it so it doesn't break. "I have to upgrade this BEFORE I can use it?" (not naming models or mfg.) Makes me think of the old Discount Tire commercials from years back with the little old lady. Surprises me we don't see more of that with sub par rc stuff that fetches top dollar. Like the @@@ (not naming model) and its rear driveline issues. What you pay for and what you get to deal with..... oh its a serviceable part, comes with a spare. Really? Off rant, sorry. Grinding gears, excess slop, bent axles, link mounts, servo and electronics. Gotcha. How can you tell if it has beef tubes?

[Jboucher]

Remove the axle housing cover, you can see the ends of the beeftubes inside.
Or remove the lockouts / c-hubs, same thing

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[Browneye]

Beeftubes supplies bright screws for the hubs, and link mounts if applicable - stocks are black. Not definitive, but a good indicator.
I doubt you'll find them very often on a resale. Possible, just not likely - they're not a cheap update so the casual user generally hasn't arrived there yet.

The only way I would buy someone else's 'junk' is if was REALLY cheap. Everything I've ever seen for resale they think they can get their money back for their upgrade parts. Sometimes they actually can - just not from me. pfft.