RCCrawler Forums

general lee · 07-24-2009, 11:45 AM

i shortend my wheel base without spending a dime but its a big guess i just cut the links on each end not past the threads just a little bit then cut the rod ends down just a hair and by now you should be able to remove the little spacer on the three link

landy-ross · 08-03-2009, 07:30 AM

Long time no updates!!

Well there aren't any real changes to the truck.

I have ordered the parts i need to shorten the wheelbase which will be great

. Entails making up new lower links, and then removing the spacer from the top 3-link mount. should be just right then

.

On a different note, I want to change the body from
this:

to something like this:

Basically painting it white, tinting the rear windows, and painting all the body 'furniture' black.
whats the best way of going about this?
1)how easily can all the bits be removed from the body? (they have been inserted, then sort-of melted in/together.
2) What paint to use? (black and white) (not affected by water)
3) Suitable glue to then use on top of the paint to put the parts back in with.
4) How to prepare the surface?
Thanks,

landy-ross · 08-05-2009, 07:05 AM

Well i spent yesterday stripping all the bits and bobs off the body, Only bit left on/in is the windscreen (windshield :P)/vent pannel part. I'm also in the process of chopping the spare wheel carrier off the rear door. then it will be ready for paint.

And now for the silly looking picture. I'm looking at getting an off road RC light set... they happen to be the same diameter as our £ coins...so i did some mocking up!

G1050 · 08-05-2009, 11:25 AM

I'm doing a similar build - same D90 hard body on an SCX-10.
How did you end up taking off the little parts? I've got to pull the windshield wipers off and reverse them. Any tips to doing that?

landy-ross · 08-05-2009, 11:32 AM

The wind shield wipers are simpler - just grip them as close to the mount as you can (they're quite flexible) and wiggle them. they are stiff, but give. Dont use pliers like i did, it marks them.

For getting the bits off the body, get a craft knife (sharper the better). when you turn it over you can see the ends of all the little bits that get pushed through then melted, you want to trim the sides of these until they can slide out. most of them shouldnt take much trimming. The ones for the windows are extremely thin, and i snapped a few where i wasnt being patient with the trimming/couldnt get to them very easily.
hope this helps!

On annother note, to get the wheel base right you need 85mm lower links (excluding rod ends).

G1050 · 08-05-2009, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landy-ross

The wind shield wipers are simpler - just grip them as close to the mount as you can (they're quite flexible) and wiggle them. they are stiff, but give. Dont use pliers like i did, it marks them.

For getting the bits off the body, get a craft knife (sharper the better). when you turn it over you can see the ends of all the little bits that get pushed through then melted, you want to trim the sides of these until they can slide out. most of them shouldnt take much trimming. The ones for the windows are extremely thin, and i snapped a few where i wasnt being patient with the trimming/couldnt get to them very easily.
hope this helps!

On annother note, to get the wheel base right you need 85mm lower links (excluding rod ends).

Ah, okay, thanks for the tips.
This is my first scale build and I'm not brave enough yet to try to paint it. I've realized I'll be lucky to get the body mounted and get the wheelbase right! I'm looking forward to see how yours turns out, and how you mount the body and everything.
I love the landy's.

landy-ross · 08-05-2009, 05:53 PM

well this is my first scaler, and first 4x4 RC, i have a tamiya mini.

Update: Brain has progressed on the design of the cage

but i havent found out how i can download it to my PC

.

whats the best way of removing the scratches from the clear windows?

AlmstEvil665 · 08-05-2009, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landy-ross

got a link to the SWX lower links? i take it these will be a bolt on job?

would bending the standard link shorten them (for the straight distance axle to skid)? how easy would it be to bend the standard links?
Cheers

Hey bud I'm sorry I never answered your question. The SWX lower links are bolt on as well as the upper links. Not real sure what the lenght or them is. I didn't shorten the wheelbase in the front but did in the back. In the back you can move the shock hoops forward on the frame. It makes the shocks sit up nice and straight after you shorten the WB.

landy-ross · 08-05-2009, 06:21 PM

ahh thats alright, i'll let you off ;). I have ordered them, and some spacers online

. and the rear shock hoop is moved forward too

AlmstEvil665 · 08-06-2009, 04:31 AM

Right on man good luck with this thing. I haven't gotten around to working on mine yet. I mocked up the short WB with some spare links and whatnot and set the body on the frame snapped some pictures and said wow this thing is gonna look sweet. And thats the last I messed with it lol. I wanna do the factory style rook rack and ladder on the back. Also do the roll cage around the windsheild frame. I got a couple pictures of one that was for sale near my house for reference. I have good intensions lol but just no time to work on it. The SCX10 chassis is like the perfect lenght though. I gotta figure how to mount a motor up front and a transfer case and all that good stuff. I wanna put the interior in it without cutting it up. Also might cut the dash apart and make it left hand drive. I dunno time will tell. Probably won't really work on it till winter when there is nothing goin on. Good luck I'll be watching.

landy-ross · 08-06-2009, 03:19 PM

trimmed the servo plate mounts off the rear axles as they arent being used.

landy-ross · 08-26-2009, 05:47 AM

well its ages since the last update! mainly due to me sitting around waiting for parts. so far my order has been split twice!! I have part 1 & 2 of the order, the other bits are due in the country in 2-3 weeks. I have now got the parts to shorten the lower links for one axle. I've done this now, and the wheelbase will be right on once i have the front sorted too.

The problem I have now run into is binding. When the shocks are compressed one at a time, i get about 90% of the travel before it starts binding, but if i compress them both at the same time, i only get about 45/50% of the travel before it binds. I have traced the binding to the top link/3rd link is now too long, as you can see the chassis ends being deflected. I have removed the spacer for the 3 link.

Any sugestions? I think the best bet would be the axial 4 link mount front and rear when that comes out.

pardonmyn00b · 08-26-2009, 05:59 AM

Is your driveshaft too long? That could also be a problem with the binding.

landy-ross · 08-26-2009, 06:23 AM

got it in one!

why didnt i think of that!!! taken the drive shaft off. now suspension is perfect! struck me as it must be that, when taking the driveshaft off, i had to take one of the links out to get enough movement!

EL BARTO 1979 · 08-26-2009, 09:16 AM

i was gonna say the same

JJR · 09-03-2009, 12:00 AM

Looking good, I want to build the same thing.

Where did you order the body from?

landy-ross · 09-03-2009, 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landy-ross

From a bloke who gets them from the manufacturer... email this guy: laihonwai@netvigator.com

others have got them from Ebay.

JJR · 09-04-2009, 10:21 AM

Thanks for the info.

Any updates on your build?

landy-ross · 09-04-2009, 01:37 PM

no updates yet... still waiting for the UK distributor to receive the parts from the US for the shortened front links.

JJR · 09-04-2009, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by landy-ross

no updates yet... still waiting for the UK distributor to receive the parts from the US for the shortened front links.

I think it would be faster for someone here in the US to send you the parts. That sucks that it takes so long to get things to you. I made some links for my SCX10 out of Delrin. I just bought a 6 ft. long x 3/8 round rod of Delrin. Now I can make any links I want.

08-03-2009, 07:30 AM	#42
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	Long time no updates!! Well there aren't any real changes to the truck. I have ordered the parts i need to shorten the wheelbase which will be great . Entails making up new lower links, and then removing the spacer from the top 3-link mount. should be just right then . On a different note, I want to change the body from this: to something like this: Basically painting it white, tinting the rear windows, and painting all the body 'furniture' black. whats the best way of going about this? 1)how easily can all the bits be removed from the body? (they have been inserted, then sort-of melted in/together. 2) What paint to use? (black and white) (not affected by water) 3) Suitable glue to then use on top of the paint to put the parts back in with. 4) How to prepare the surface? Thanks, Last edited by landy-ross; 08-03-2009 at 08:19 AM.

07-24-2009, 11:45 AM	#41
general lee Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: ogden Posts: 81	i shortend my wheel base without spending a dime but its a big guess i just cut the links on each end not past the threads just a little bit then cut the rod ends down just a hair and by now you should be able to remove the little spacer on the three link

08-05-2009, 07:05 AM	#43
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	Well i spent yesterday stripping all the bits and bobs off the body, Only bit left on/in is the windscreen (windshield :P)/vent pannel part. I'm also in the process of chopping the spare wheel carrier off the rear door. then it will be ready for paint. And now for the silly looking picture. I'm looking at getting an off road RC light set... they happen to be the same diameter as our £ coins...so i did some mocking up!

08-05-2009, 11:25 AM	#44
G1050 Newbie Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Utah Posts: 23	I'm doing a similar build - same D90 hard body on an SCX-10. How did you end up taking off the little parts? I've got to pull the windshield wipers off and reverse them. Any tips to doing that?

08-05-2009, 11:32 AM	#45
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	The wind shield wipers are simpler - just grip them as close to the mount as you can (they're quite flexible) and wiggle them. they are stiff, but give. Dont use pliers like i did, it marks them. For getting the bits off the body, get a craft knife (sharper the better). when you turn it over you can see the ends of all the little bits that get pushed through then melted, you want to trim the sides of these until they can slide out. most of them shouldnt take much trimming. The ones for the windows are extremely thin, and i snapped a few where i wasnt being patient with the trimming/couldnt get to them very easily. hope this helps! On annother note, to get the wheel base right you need 85mm lower links (excluding rod ends).

08-05-2009, 05:53 PM	#47
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	well this is my first scaler, and first 4x4 RC, i have a tamiya mini. Update: Brain has progressed on the design of the cage but i havent found out how i can download it to my PC . whats the best way of removing the scratches from the clear windows?

08-05-2009, 06:21 PM	#49
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	ahh thats alright, i'll let you off ;). I have ordered them, and some spacers online . and the rear shock hoop is moved forward too

08-06-2009, 04:31 AM	#50
AlmstEvil665 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Hagerstown Posts: 369	Right on man good luck with this thing. I haven't gotten around to working on mine yet. I mocked up the short WB with some spare links and whatnot and set the body on the frame snapped some pictures and said wow this thing is gonna look sweet. And thats the last I messed with it lol. I wanna do the factory style rook rack and ladder on the back. Also do the roll cage around the windsheild frame. I got a couple pictures of one that was for sale near my house for reference. I have good intensions lol but just no time to work on it. The SCX10 chassis is like the perfect lenght though. I gotta figure how to mount a motor up front and a transfer case and all that good stuff. I wanna put the interior in it without cutting it up. Also might cut the dash apart and make it left hand drive. I dunno time will tell. Probably won't really work on it till winter when there is nothing goin on. Good luck I'll be watching.

08-06-2009, 03:19 PM	#51
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	trimmed the servo plate mounts off the rear axles as they arent being used.

08-26-2009, 05:47 AM	#52
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	well its ages since the last update! mainly due to me sitting around waiting for parts. so far my order has been split twice!! I have part 1 & 2 of the order, the other bits are due in the country in 2-3 weeks. I have now got the parts to shorten the lower links for one axle. I've done this now, and the wheelbase will be right on once i have the front sorted too. The problem I have now run into is binding. When the shocks are compressed one at a time, i get about 90% of the travel before it starts binding, but if i compress them both at the same time, i only get about 45/50% of the travel before it binds. I have traced the binding to the top link/3rd link is now too long, as you can see the chassis ends being deflected. I have removed the spacer for the 3 link. Any sugestions? I think the best bet would be the axial 4 link mount front and rear when that comes out.

08-26-2009, 05:59 AM	#53
pardonmyn00b I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Unnecessary Surgery Land Posts: 3,406	Is your driveshaft too long? That could also be a problem with the binding.

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08-26-2009, 06:23 AM	#54
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	got it in one! why didnt i think of that!!! taken the drive shaft off. now suspension is perfect! struck me as it must be that, when taking the driveshaft off, i had to take one of the links out to get enough movement!

08-26-2009, 09:16 AM	#55
EL BARTO 1979 Newbie Join Date: May 2008 Location: Belgium Posts: 48	i was gonna say the same

09-03-2009, 12:00 AM	#56
JJR Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 284	Looking good, I want to build the same thing. Where did you order the body from?

09-04-2009, 10:21 AM	#58
JJR Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 284	Thanks for the info. Any updates on your build?

09-04-2009, 01:37 PM	#59
landy-ross Pebble Pounder Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Near Oxford, UK Posts: 162	no updates yet... still waiting for the UK distributor to receive the parts from the US for the shortened front links.

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