Help! my Dingo is to top heavy!

[FordFixer]

Well i ran my dingo scx10 today and it was like a hippo on stilts!...Could anyone suggest how and where to move some weight? Im starting with taking off the spare, but im sure i cant stop there...every time i climb something, it either flops on its side or falls back...ugh

[Optiskate]

Where is your battery and all your electronics mounted? Maybe you could move things around to get better results? Mounting things the lowest you can and a little weight up front is always a good thing. At least from what I've seen so far.

Also, what are you trying to drive up. Everything has its limits. Its no comp crawler, but still capable.

[FordFixer]

lol...yea, i know, i promise you im not trying to climb a 90 degree vertical wall..lol...just little socks and stuff...the sec it would lean alittle, it was gone..
I have everything in stock location...battery in rear, electronics up front. Im not a fan of alot of wires so i tried to keep it all close..

[The-Blacksheep]

i mounted my batterey in the place of the reciever box, and basically switched the positions of the reciver box and batterey, just take a little thinking, granted mine is a honcho, so there might be some clearance issues with the dingo wheelbase beign shorter, but you should be able to make everything work! I used the plastic brackets that mount the servo to the servo plate to elevate my battery plate from hitting the driveline and links, just had to find 4 screws, 2 to screw the plastic pieces to the outside of the frame rails, and 2 to put in the holes i drilled thru the battery plate to mount it to the plastic pieces, if you need me too ill upload some pics for ya, dont have them on photobucket yet, but can do so if your not understanding how i did it, there are other ways to do this of course, but i just used what i had with as little fabrication as possible, hope this helps!

[FordFixer]

i kinda understand, but pics work best if its not to much trouble..did u mount it sideways?

[northernerbill]

1, Weight your wheels (very important)
2, Move your battery over the front wheels and get it as low as possible, don't worry if your servo touches it when you compress both sides equally unless your doing big jumps it won't happen
3, Move your electronics somewhere else keep em low even if it means losing the supplied box.

The fact your battery is over the rear wheels is screwing up any real chance the rig has.

[FordFixer]

got it...I guess after just building it, its time to rebuild it right.lol

[Jus]

Your driving can be a big part of it as well, if you're new to this type of RC.

Slow and smooth. Keep the suspension as soft as you can. Too stiff will cause rolling onto the side when approaching obstacles with one front tire.

[FordFixer]

the shocks on this kit are crap...Ive built shocks for my SC trucks and they are so smooth compared to the rtr shocks in this kit, they just suck. I built them with the 30wt oil in the kit and right now have no preload to make them soft and they still feel nasty

[Armistice]

Not sure if the Dingo is set up the same as the SCX10, but I put my electronics on the battery mount plate, and put my battery next to the motor (little trench thing)

[ridepate]

Loose the spare tire and holder, if you are running one. That helps a lot with the back-flips.

[AX10wannabe]

you want to move the battery cross ways on the frame just behind the tires. not sure on the configuration on the dingo if its different or not from the honcho but thats the best place i've found for my battery.. that alone will make a huge difference. if you have to move the receiver to mount the battery then put the rx in the back. also add some weight to the wheels that will help a lot. on my honcho i have the rx and esc velcro'd to the battery plate. here's my setup..
my battery sits just in front of the spur gear and is held by the stock straps.

[sisterfunk]

hello,
i recently purchased a dingo kit and had the same problem. i didnt remove the cage or spare. I did move the battery to the front of the rig. this putts the weight over the front axle, this is where you would want most your weight. i also removed the stock sliders and built new ones from 22gauge sheet metal from lowes, was like $7. I added two project boxes to each side of the rig, with my new sliders and Velcro holding them down. each box has 3 single cell sub-C batteries, each battery weights 2.2oz, total of 6 cells for just over 12oz. i put 1 1/2 oz of sticky weights directly on the axle on each side (not very scale looking, i know), for 3oz total. i do not have ANY weights in my wheels. with what i was able to add in weight, my rig works great! I dont really have any flipping problems any more, unless i get real vertical.


you can check out my dingo in action, by visiting my channel. there are some vids of it getting pretty vertical and just holding it.

hope that helps some....
Sisterfunk

[ridepate]

Nobody said remove the cage..................."i didnt remove the cage or spare".....remove the spare and the MOUNT.....

[sisterfunk]

i understand that... it wasn't directed towards your help either. i put it out there if any one was thinking they might need to. guess i'll just keep my help to myself, so not to offend anyone. sorry.

[Nitrofreakmanho]

I covered one side of the aluminum battery tray with velcro, and used servo tape to mount it directly on the steering servo. I then used velcro to mount my SC and lipo battery to the tray..this will put all the weight directly on the front axle, making for a very low COG. Also, adding weight to your rims is a must, especially the front.

with sample battery lol:


so all the weight on that plat pushes down on the servo, which pushes down on the front axle and wheels. It seems to work very well for me..I've climbed some pretty steep inclines for an SCX10 ( measured with my iPhone )

[qwkjimmy]

Originally Posted by northernerbill

1, Weight your wheels (very important)
2, Move your battery over the front wheels and get it as low as possible, don't worry if your servo touches it when you compress both sides equally unless your doing big jumps it won't happen

The fact your battery is over the rear wheels is screwing up any real chance the rig has.

I was concerned with that also but I guess it makes sense.. I dont plan on jumping at all so I guess I can lower my battery tray..

[TheOgre]

I put 4oz of weight in each front tire and 2 oz in the rear with a nimh battery in the front works great for me and my obsticals I go on.

[Tom95YJ]

I put 3oz in each wheel on my SCX10, 4.5oz of weight on the rear cross member, an moved my battery up front. Mine is pretty stable climbing, But my trimmed foams hurt me on side hills . Hopefully my new XJ body will help with the cage making it top heavy