1 problem after another

[foratm]

Ok so i dont know what is going on but i'm getting pi$$ed!!! SCX10
So first thing is the torque twist is getting annoying. I have preloaded and flipped everything. I think i will try to rebuild the axles.
Next is i stripped the wheels and had to get new ones. No problem i like the new RC4WD pro 10's except that the cross pins leave too much play in the wheels.
Now i just stripped the output shaft that connects to the drive shaft from the transmission side the set screw actually grooved into the shaft.
Dont know how i will fix it except by making another flat.
Also the screw holes in the axle that hold in the chubs dont have much of a thread so the screws dont tighten much.
Its just getting frustrating is there any ideas on what to do? Especially with the drive shaft and torque twist.

[NMLJ]

What electronics are you running?

And whats your suspension setup?

[btoungette]

What are you doing to your rig?

Are you using a drill to tighten screws? Screwing into plastic takes finesse.

I installed the under-drive gears when I built my kit. My wheel/tire combo weights about 8.0 oz. I can say I don't notice any torque twist in my Honcho. Noting is mirrored, or flipped. I have lengthened my wheel base, but not to remedy torque twist.

Do you have weight in your wheels? What about a pic of your current set up?

[ridepate]

Twist?? You running stock-plastic links??? If so, part of your problem. Rung-off output shaft, grubs not tight. Was it an RTR???

[ndi_guy]

Did you buy it used or build it yourself?

[foratm]

Electronics are sidewinder sv2 stock axial motor hs562mg? I forgot the servo. The lower links are steel custom made links uppers are aluminum and th ree link the entire way around and is cms system. I did buy it used though as a roller which explains the stripped threads.
Wheel weights are 5.5 in the front none in the rear.
the wheel base is at 12.1"
The chubs are the aluminum caster ones to adjust for the links.
And shocks are 4" losi crawlers with whites on them.
everything else is stock as well.
The electronics are located in the rear battery up front.
Ill post pics in the a.m.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by foratm

Ok so i dont know what is going on but i'm getting pi$$ed!!! SCX10
So first thing is the torque twist is getting annoying. I have preloaded and flipped everything. I think i will try to rebuild the axles.
Next is i stripped the wheels and had to get new ones. No problem i like the new RC4WD pro 10's except that the cross pins leave too much play in the wheels.
Now i just stripped the output shaft that connects to the drive shaft from the transmission side the set screw actually grooved into the shaft.
Dont know how i will fix it except by making another flat.
Also the screw holes in the axle that hold in the chubs dont have much of a thread so the screws dont tighten much.
Its just getting frustrating is there any ideas on what to do? Especially with the drive shaft and torque twist.

For the torque twist, search is all I can say in a short sentence. It has been fought with since the dawn of shafties. Mirroring trans, thicker shock oil/stiffer spring in the leaning corner helps. Everything is a balance tho.

For the trans output, get the Axial steel outputs and use 2 m3 screws per yoke. Tightening the flat side one first.

For the chub screw hole in the axle, get beef tubes.

[meanbgreen]

sounds like mine, kept upgradin everything till the weakest link became tough. It's now fun to drive after upgrading nearly everything on my ready to run. Only thing stock now is the frame. lmao

[kingkong101184]

thats odd, mines been great.

[NFA Fabrication]

Originally Posted by kingkong101184

thats odd, mines been great.

It's not that odd, they are all common issues. On the front C-hubs, take out the course thread screws and replace with 3mm hardware (The longest screws you can put in that don't hit the drivecup). If yours are too far stripped, you may need to replace them, but don't reuse the coarse thread screws!

As far as the driveshaft stuff, this was a known issue, and has been upgraded on the new SCX10 trucks. I have a link with all of the part numbers to fix this in my build thread (See sig. link). And as far as torque twist goes, I have just come to live with it, and compared to many other rigs, it really isn't that bad on the SCX10. Do the trans. mirroring at least if it bugs you. Stiffer springs in the dipping corners will help hide the issue, but will compromise on the rigs performance.

[Meatwad]

Originally Posted by NFA Fabrication

It's not that odd, they are all common issues. On the front C-hubs, take out the course thread screws and replace with 3mm hardware (The longest screws you can put in that don't hit the drivecup). If yours are too far stripped, you may need to replace them, but don't reuse the coarse thread screws!

As far as the driveshaft stuff, this was a known issue, and has been upgraded on the new SCX10 trucks. I have a link with all of the part numbers to fix this in my build thread (See sig. link). And as far as torque twist goes, I have just come to live with it, and compared to many other rigs, it really isn't that bad on the SCX10. Do the trans. mirroring at least if it bugs you. Stiffer springs in the dipping corners will help hide the issue, but will compromise on the rigs performance.

A new screw won't stop an alum chub from snapping the end of the axle housing off

[NFA Fabrication]

Originally Posted by Meatwad

A new screw won't stop an alum chub from snapping the end of the axle housing off

I didn't see him mentioning anything about aluminum C-Hubs. Plus, I originally thought he meant the steering pivot screws, i didn't see that he meant the screws into the axle housing, but the same advice would go there.