Wraith axles on SCX10 chasis

[mudbeast2]

Hey guys, I finished my wraith build & I started fitting my extra parts to my scx10 chasis. the upper links seem to long and the axle is pointing way up. Can someone please advise a way to install wraith axles on that chasis please.

[johnnyh66]

make your own links.

[Qcustomz]

Good question. I need same answer.

[Meatwad]

Use shorter links?

[Carolina Scaler]

Not to be a smart ass but just what Johnny said...make your own. You can either go to the hobby store and find a compatable link or turnbuckle the length you need or go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy a rod of all thread and cut it and slap some rod ends on it. If you search there are many ways that people have done this. Copy one of them or use some of each of them and come up with your own.

[Rook82]

Well since I am working on just that at the moment, I will share what I am doing. Started with a basic Honcho kit version. I used the existing 106mm rear lower links and the front 98mm lower links (home made from all thread and aluminum tubing). What I did to help with rod end bind from the angles is installed angled rod ends. You can see them in this picture.



For the uppers, I used or made the same Length approximately as the lowers and played with different length rod ends and spacers (lengthen the links) to get the correct driveshaft angle and wheels/axle centered left to right on the chassi. Now here is the tricky part. The transmission outputs are now on the opposite side of the rig as the axle inputs are on the left side. So to keep the drive shafts from having to go so far side to side, I flipped the trans mount around. Just unbolt it from the frame and spin it so what was facing the rear is now facing the front. This puts the trans outputs much more inline with the axle inputs.



For the upper links (tricky part mentioned before), the upper link closest to the driveshaft is now going to hit the driveshaft. I have seen multiple fixes for this. What I did is put a bend in the upper link. Now the link goes up and over the driveshaft. You have to do this for both axles.



Kinds blurry pic but you can see the upper link on the far side is bent to ride up and over the drive shaft. I just used a simple $10 brake line bender I got a while back at the auto store, but many things could accomplish this. I didn't measure what I bent them to but I would guess about a 30 degree angle going by the vague markings on my bender. The side that gets bent will now due to the nature of what you did to the link, be about 1/8 inch shorter (in my case). So I just put a spacer between the rod and and the link when I screwed it on. I did a lot of this overall due to I am picky on drive shaft angles and having things perfectly centered. The type of spacers are similar to the spacer that goes between the shock and shock hoop at the top of the SCX shocks. Just use ones or washers, etc to get the spacing you need.

What the front looks like finished.



Back finished.



Overall underneath.



Top front with the battery and electronics mount I made from sheet aluminum. Servo winch is going in the front of this plate.



Body on. I doubt this will be the permanent body, I just havent gotten to that part yet. I may run a NewBright 4dr JK body I havent used yet. I have the wheelbase set at 13 inches which would work great on it.



I installed some Vanquish and STRC parts on the axles but have not run the rig outside yet, just around indoors. Nice center of gravity and stable right now. I would like to go to a stiffer shock/spring setup as it is a bit loose now with the extra leverage the wider axles have on it. The suspension cycles perfectly with no bind anywhere. The servo does hit the battery/electro plate if you bottom out the shocks on both sides at the same time. But they do not hit when you cycle the suspension side to side. I am not going to high speed jump it so I do not mind. I prefer to get the weight down as low as possible.

Hope this helps explain some of the process. It is not simple, but not too hard either. All of the things I did, I came across by others on this site. Bending the upper links, etc were all someone else's idea. Good luck if you decide to go this route. i think it will be worth it in the end. but it is not just a simple bolt in (close but not quite). Didn't take me long as I have 4 SCX10's and a lot of experience with them. And I have tons of parts, rod ends, spacers, links, etc. Have fun

[mudbeast2]

Thanks for the input. I ordered som all thread from fastenall & it will be here tomorrow so I can finish the suspension. I am using a unimog body from tamiya & it is a little short. Should I trim the frame 1.5 inches or cut off the bed & go for a tube bed? I didnt realize the scx10 wheel base was shorter than the wraith. I guess it is more scale than the wraith is?

[mudbeast2]

Hey Rook82 thanks for the pictures. I'm going to put in the trans from my wraith once I get the 2 speed from rcwd. How do you think that would fit in?

[Mr.Joshua]

Nice write up Rook82. It's awesome that you took the time to post this up!

[johnnyh66]

Originally Posted by mudbeast2

Should I trim the frame 1.5 inches or cut off the bed & go for a tube bed?

Mogs look great either way.
You could do a flat bed.

I cut about .75" off my chassis to fit my bug better.

[Rook82]

Originally Posted by mudbeast2

Hey Rook82 thanks for the pictures. I'm going to put in the trans from my wraith once I get the 2 speed from rcwd. How do you think that would fit in?

I am not sure as I have never used a Wraith trans. I got the axles from RPP's salvage section. I can say that my MIP driveshafts were close to being too short in the back. The are AX10 versions (I think same length as the ones they market for the SCX10 now, not positive). From what I have read, the Wraith trans has the same bolt pattern as the SCX. I would think it should work, but I am not sure. What is the reason for putting the Wraith one in, to get the drilled outputs?

I ran the rig yesterday outside and it had been pouring all day. So the rocks on the job site were mucky and wet. The rig worked amazing. The width and stability these axles give the rig is incredible. Even with such a tall tire it was very stable. Getting the weight low like with the battery plate mod really helps here too. I hope to do some more testing tonight after work. I am very glad I have done this mod (Wraith axles) so far. It is for my TTC rig and may not get run too often. But I am liking having the larger much more capable rig compared to most of my 1.9 SCX10's or my 1.55 TF2. Just another option to run depending on mood or location.

[Meatwad]

The only reason for the wraith trans is dig capability, updated dingo tranny (scx/ax style) has the steel shorty outputs with thru holes.

If your mips are a tad too short just chop a bit off the ends, be aware at full compression the shafts may disengage though. The splines don't go all the way in the female end. A couple rigs of mine required it.

[mudbeast2]

I am going to be using the wraith trans because I swaping it out for the rcwd 2 speed. I figured I would just use the factory wraith one in the scx 10. This scx is kind of a mutt, scx chasis, wraith axles & trans, Unimog body. I need to purchase a star so I can post pics.

[johnnyh66]

You can use photobucket.com to post pics.

[mudbeast2]

Here is a link to pictures of my Wraith & scx10 unimog.

Pictures by mudbeast44 - Photobucket