SCX10 JK Rubicon - Bent Axle Shaft and Lower Link

[AgustinCJ7]

I just bought a SCX10 Wrangler Rubicon, and while doing wheelies in my back yard, some things bent...



I have some questions to the Honcho and Axial knowledge ppl out there:

1. Could the bent drive shaft be a by product of the slightly bent lower support link?

2. Should I replace the bent shaft with the provided spare plastic part, or should I be ordering a beefier one? (If new shaft is in order, please let me know which one is a good bulletproof option)

3. As or the link: Should I just order the Axial alumi links, or are there other better options?

I always break stuff in my 1:1 Jeep, but I was not planing to brake stuff so soon in the 1:10... o well, part o the hobby...

[R2j]

That twisting is not from the links being bent, but rather that the drive shafts are plastic. Most guys upgrade to the MIP drive shafts, Junfac or RC4WD metal shafts. As for links, here is another option......

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/chass...-scx-10-a.html

Also, available in 1/4" stainless, as well as upper links and steering kits.

[Jus]

It's the drive shafts... The shaft is hollow and allows it to collapse a little and then twist itself into a twizzler. You could replace it with another stock part but this time put something in the hollow center like a wood dowel or a piece of threaded rod.. Something to make the shaft solid.. It'll last a lot longer that way.

Or if you want to spend money you could go ahead and look at stronger aftermarket replacements.. MIP is the standard for strength and is what I upgrade to when it's time. Be prepared to spend about $60 though.

[904crawler]

install new parts and stop doing wheelies

[Blue Monkey RC]

you need some MIP shafts. they are pricey but fit a large variety of vehicles so you can recycle them. last shafts you will ever buy

[darkmanx]

Originally Posted by Jus

It's the drive shafts... The shaft is hollow and allows it to collapse a little and then twist itself into a twizzler. You could replace it with another stock part but this time put something in the hollow center like a wood dowel or a piece of threaded rod.. Something to make the shaft solid.. It'll last a lot longer that way.

Or if you want to spend money you could go ahead and look at stronger aftermarket replacements.. MIP is the standard for strength and is what I upgrade to when it's time. Be prepared to spend about $60 though.

I did the same thing I used a 3mm straight link and sanded it down and pressed it into the hollow part of the drive shaft.

[treys1]

I'm partial to R2J's stuff so I vote there for links. His stuff has held up well on my Wraith.

I'm also with the others saying that if you make the male portion of the driveshaft solid it will last much longer. I used M6x65mm bolts from Lowes on my Wraith and they held up for quite a while. I only swapped to MIP's when I went brushless.

Cheap Stock drive shaft upgrade

[5VoltDetonator]

Costa Rica?- Pura Vida! Wow I have a new rtr Rubicon also, wow how do you do wheelies? I see the marks on you battery looks like it is a 2S Gen Ace prob 50C ? Were you using that battery for whellies? or a 3S?

also- I'm ording MIP's after reading this.

[AgustinCJ7]

Wow, great and QUICK info.

I´ll go with the reinforced driveshaft for now, and order some MIP new ones for later....

As far as links go, I sent a PM to R2j to order some of his links...

"stop doing wheelies".... aggrrr, it´s hard to control the stupid pedal, err, finger

Thanks guys

[DISTURBIN' tha PEACE]

Yup, stop doing wheelies. Plain & simple.

As for the stock plastic links, I like them a lot. Others will tell you they are worthless, but they do their job perfectly. Which is to bend & not break. Once you upgrade your links to AL, SS, or Ti, you WILL start to break knuckles & C-hubs. Now you will need to upgrade those. All of which is not a problem if that's what you want to do, but I like wheeling my stock RTR & making others with all the mods look silly.

[AgustinCJ7]

No wheelies, got it.

I was re-assembling the drive shaft with the spare parts, and noticed that the CV joint is moving freely in on of its axis (the one that rotates in the pin that goes in the drive shaft side), but it is hard to rotate in the axis that is in the axle side. This is creating a vibration. I suspect that this could have been the cause of the bent shaft, as it is not turning freely. Does this make sense?

I want to be able to use the Jeep on the weekend, but I don't want to damage the pinion box.

New shaft will not be here until 10 or so days...

[T3rry]

it's a trail truck, not a wheelie king.

[AgustinCJ7]

So I was able to fix the bent shaft for today´s trail ride with a couple of friends...



We had a good time, however, my JK presented a new problem:



The front upper suspension link broke free. I can see that the screw is still in the suspension link, but the diff is hanging from the shocks. Is this something common?

Having broken parts in 2 out of 3 rides make me wonder on the build quality of this cars, or maybe I´ve got a lemon...

My friend with the Dingo has been running his RC for more than a year, with out any trouble, and today, the 2 JK´s had bent rear links, and mine broke the front diff loose (No wheelies or hard stuff).

Advice welcomed.

[AgustinCJ7]

As per the received advice, I bought a set of MIP drive shafts.

When trying to install them, I'm having problems with the shaft hitting the pinion housing and protector. (the MIP drive shaft is is bigger and wider than the original, and the clearance is very small).

Any advice on what to do to make it fit?

Any one else had the same problem?

[diesel kawboy]

Just dremel the cover lightly until it fits

[slitcher]

out of curiosity, what kind of motor are you using ?

[AgustinCJ7]

Using stock Axial 27T motor

Used the dremel to remove as much material from the cover as possible, however, the fit is pretty tight there...

Stock Drive Shaft


MIP Whitout cover


MIP With cover

[Dtempleton]

I would just remove the cover, i never ran a dust cover on my wraith